The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

[thunderchicken]

Going to start with a 75 then move up to 150

What jet sizes is that?

 

[Mounty09]

What jet sizes is that?

The 150 is a 0.062

 

[thunderchicken]

The 150 is a 0.062

That doesn't sound right to me. What brand system?

Asking because using standard NOS style jets with a wet system, I'm pretty sure an .062 jet will flow MUCH MUCH more than a 150 shot. I've sprayed 4.5- 5 times that through a smaller jet (in one kit).

 

[thunderchicken]

Picture before removing. As you can see the tip of the valve stem broke off pretty much flush with the keepers. I think most of the pieces are trapped in the screened fitting at the bottom of the oil pan.

 

[Mounty09]

That doesn't sound right to me. What brand system?

Asking because using standard NOS style jets with a wet system, I'm pretty sure an .062 jet will flow MUCH MUCH more than a 150 shot. I've sprayed 4.5- 5 times that through a smaller jet (in one kit).

It is a NX jet.

 

[thunderchicken]

It is a NX jet.
View attachment 209151

That explains it. NX jets aren't compatible with NOS/Edelbrock/ Induction Solutions systems. As I've always understood it, NX jets numbers don't correlate with the actual orifice size whereas the IS jets we use do.
So wet or dry system?
Per the chart is it having you run a #62 jet on the nitrous side and a #37 jet on the fuel side with 45 psi fuel pressure? What bottle pressure do they recommend?

 

[Mounty09]

That explains it. NX jets aren't compatible with NOS/Edelbrock/ Induction Solutions systems. As I've always understood it, NX jets numbers don't correlate with the actual orifice size whereas the IS jets we use do.
So wet or dry system?
Per the chart is it having you run a #62 jet on the nitrous side and a #37 jet on the fuel side with 45 psi fuel pressure? What bottle pressure do they recommend?

It will be dry with Terminator X Max controlling it. It has been awhile since I have looked into bottle pressure but I want to say around a 1000psi.

I need to route my blow down tube and work on the tune and it should be ready.

 

[thunderchicken]

It will be dry with Terminator X Max controlling it. It has been awhile since I have looked into bottle pressure but I want to say around a 1000psi.

I need to route my blow down tube and work on the tune and it should be ready.

Take it however you'd like, but if it were me I would keep the bottle pressure between 900-950 but closer to 900. Varying pressure will cause the desired hp to vary. I took a nitrous class/seminar several years ago with Steve Johnson (owner of Induction Solutions) and when the bottle is warm enough to exceed 950 psi, the liquid inside is actually starting to boil. That makes it very difficult to get consistent results.

 

[Mounty09]

Take it however you'd like, but if it were me I would keep the bottle pressure between 900-950 but closer to 900. Varying pressure will cause the desired hp to vary. I took a nitrous class/seminar several years ago with Steve Johnson (owner of Induction Solutions) and when the bottle is warm enough to exceed 950 psi, the liquid inside is actually starting to boil. That makes it very difficult to get consistent results.

Thanks for the info.

I've read to retard 1.5-2 degrees per 50hp. Does that sound about right?

 

[thunderchicken]

Thanks for the info.

I've read to retard 1.5-2 degrees per 50hp. Does that sound about right?

That's a pretty good place to start. I would use my ignition box to pull timing when the kit comes on. But, I would take 1-2* of base timing out of it too just to start with until you are sure the plugs look good. Just make sure you have the right heat range spark plugs and read them regularly. Buy lots of spark plugs and keep engine idling to an absolute minimum and shut it off clean under power to get an accurate reading.

 

[churchmouse]

Picture before removing. As you can see the tip of the valve stem broke off pretty much flush with the keepers. I think most of the pieces are trapped in the screened fitting at the bottom of the oil pan.
View attachment 209146

Ugh

 

[churchmouse]

That's a pretty good place to start. I would use my ignition box to pull timing when the kit comes on. But, I would take 1-2* of base timing out of it too just to start with until you are sure the plugs look good. Just make sure you have the right heat range spark plugs and read them regularly. Buy lots of spark plugs and keep engine idling to an absolute minimum and shut it off clean under power to get an accurate reading.

This is where a lot of guys miss it. Right out of the speed traps I shut it down and coast to the off road. Pull over and off comes the hood. Tools are in a roll up in the car. Read a few and decide what's to be done. Put-em back, Lite it up and back to the trailer. Buddy asked me I hurt it and I asked why. He was confused why I would read my plugs on a "HOT" engine down on the turn off road.

 

[thunderchicken]

This is where a lot of guys miss it. Right out of the speed traps I shut it down and coast to the off road. Pull over and off comes the hood. Tools are in a roll up in the car. Read a few and decide what's to be done. Put-em back, Lite it up and back to the trailer. Buddy asked me I hurt it and I asked why. He was confused why I would read my plugs on a "HOT" engine down on the turn off road.

Yep. We always kill it at full song, coast off the track where we have my brother waiting with the golf cart. Go straight to the pits and yank a few plugs and see where we're at.
Many people don't understand how much idling or cruising through the pits changes the color/heat mark on the plugs.

 

[churchmouse]

Yep. We always kill it at full song, coast off the track where we have my brother waiting with the golf cart. Go straight to the pits and yank a few plugs and see where we're at.
Many people don't understand how much idling or cruising through the pits changes the color/heat mark on the plugs.

Doing this to a hot engine is no worse than warming up a Buick V6 in an Indy car and once it is temped pulling the warmup plugs. They are way to "HOT" to run the engine under boost and getting to a few of them around the headers are a nightmare.

 

[thunderchicken]

Doing this to a hot engine is no worse than warming up a Buick V6 in an Indy car and once it is temped pulling the warmup plugs. They are way to "HOT" to run the engine under boost and getting to a few of them around the headers are a nightmare.

Not familiar with the indy stuff but I will take your word for it. About the best thing we've found is heat resistant kevlar gloves from Simpson. They suck for grip because they are knit but they are pretty amazing for working with hot parts. Plug access isn't bad now with the tube chassis. But when it was a factory front clip it sucked pretty bad

 

[churchmouse]

Not familiar with the indy stuff but I will take your word for it. About the best thing we've found is heat resistant kevlar gloves from Simpson. They suck for grip because they are knit but they are pretty amazing for working with hot parts. Plug access isn't bad now with the tube chassis. But when it was a factory front clip it sucked pretty bad

+10 on the Simpson gloves. Could not get to 3 of the plugs without them.

If you tried to warm it up on the race plugs, they would foul out pretty quick. Once you get the engine temped it is not needed again that day.

 

[femurphy77]

Just a page 3 bump; repainted the engine bay, painted the underside, interior and trunk on the racecar the final color. I used acrylic enamel, cheap enough, easy, durable and I've used it before. I used a lite gray which coincidentally was the same color as the primer which made painting very difficult. I haven't shot a finish coat in probably 30 years, but it didn't turn out too bad.

Probably start putting it back together next weekend!

 

[ChristianPatriot]

Sorry I haven’t been around much fellas. Work’s been crazy with the heat and the only thing taking up space in my garage lately is the mower.

I did make it out to a car show Friday night down here in Hope.

 

[thunderchicken]

Just a page 3 bump; repainted the engine bay, painted the underside, interior and trunk on the racecar the final color. I used acrylic enamel, cheap enough, easy, durable and I've used it before. I used a lite gray which coincidentally was the same color as the primer which made painting very difficult. I haven't shot a finish coat in probably 30 years, but it didn't turn out too bad.

Probably start putting it back together next weekend!

Pictures or it didn't happen

 

[femurphy77]

Pictures or it didn't happen