The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

[jeffsqartan]

Might try having yours rebuilt as opposed to installing another "remanufactured " unit.

The problem there is time. I normally don't have two or three days where my truck can be offline, unless I pre-plan that time out.

Who can rebuild and how long does it usually take?

 

[femurphy77]

The problem there is time. I normally don't have two or three days where my truck can be offline, unless I pre-plan that time out.

Who can rebuild and how long does it usually take?

I know there's a place here in Mooresville but don't even know their name.

 

[femurphy77]

I know there's a place here in Mooresville but don't even know their name.

Indy Alternator and Starter
310 Indianapolis Road
317 801 8551

 

[Brad69]

I know our local shop will put in HD parts and make it higher output for just a little $$.

Talking about the INGO 5.0 vibration mystery. I wonder if it has a slightly bent rod? I replaced a head gasket on a Mazda. I didn’t know it had hydro locked it had a slight vibration due to a bent rod.

 

[jeffsqartan]

Indy Alternator and Starter
310 Indianapolis Road
317 801 8551

I'll give them a call just to see what the fees and time looks like. I wouldn't mind trying to get something on stand-by for when this one inevitably bites the dust.

I know our local shop will put in HD parts and make it higher output for just a little $$.

Talking about the INGO 5.0 vibration mystery. I wonder if it has a slightly bent rod? I replaced a head gasket on a Mazda. I didn’t know it had hydro locked it had a slight vibration due to a bent rod.

I am very tempted to jump the gun and start pulling the car apart now to see what's up with it. Only problem is days like today - where the truck randomly does something stupid and I need the car to go get parts. Once I pull it apart, it's not going back together with the same engine lol

 

[churchmouse]

Every time one has failed, it's been a mechanical failure. I've seen bearings fail, internal bolts rattle loose (today), external bolts rattle loose, etc. I had this issue with my Dodge, too. It seems like every alternator I buy only lasts for two years max.

Would the items listed above still cause the mechanical failures I listed?

No. That would be electric side.
When this engine runs is the alternator a stable platform. Is it solid in its mouths with all breaches and brackets in place.

 

[thunderchicken]

The problem there is time. I normally don't have two or three days where my truck can be offline, unless I pre-plan that time out.

Who can rebuild and how long does it usually take?

You'd have to look up the contact info as I don't have it handy. But you could call Van's electric near I-70 & Harding St last I knew.

 

[jeffsqartan]

No. That would be electric side.
When this engine runs is the alternator a stable platform. Is it solid in its mouths with all breaches and brackets in place.

Since it's a 6.0 alternator on a Cummins, there's a single bracket that bolts in place of the factory Cummins alternator. This is, and has been, rock solid and all bolts are still tight. The alternator was still solid in the mount when I removed it. It's just three bolts holding it in. All three were still tight and the unit was not moving.

 

[jeffsqartan]

You'd have to look up the contact info as I don't have it handy. But you could call Van's electric near I-70 & Harding St last I knew.

I graduated with the owner's daughter. I didn't realize they did stuff like that. Never thought to ask lmao. There is still a building at that location. I'm assuming they still operate out of it - I see cars there periodically when I drive to work.

 

[thunderchicken]

I graduated with the owner's daughter. I didn't realize they did stuff like that. Never thought to ask lmao. There is still a building at that location. I'm assuming they still operate out of it - I see cars there periodically when I drive to work.

Years ago they were off KY ave. Now I think they are off I-70 turn north and turn left at the light whatever street that is. Used to be Van's carburetor and electric.

 

[femurphy77]

Well, I'm finding myself in a conundrum. . . . finally got the Galaxie dug out and placed in a position where I can drive it on a whim again. The issue is the Galaxie itself, it has kicked me in the teeth so many times since I started it that I'm not sure if I want to move forward with it or unload it. The wife asked me the other day "what's next on the Gal?" To be honest I haven't thought about it all winter. The interior is far from finished but is moving in the right direction and other than the wore out original engine it does run.

The conundrum? What's next on the Gal? Big ticket items left are engine and paint. I'm not opposed to driving it all over the country in gray primer but I'm nervous driving it 50 miles with the engine in its' current state. As to engines I have several options, anything FE is basically a ground up build but I do have a Windsor based 393 stroker sitting on the stand that only lacks heads, cam and a distributor to be a long block with all of the machine work already done.

The downside of an FE approach is it's a COMPLETE rebuild starting with the teardown of the donor 410 Merc I have 4 it. Included in the downside is the cost and the fact that I've never had any luck with that platform having been regularly kicked in the teeth by it every time I've been involved with it. The easy solution is to have it built and dyno-tuned before I ever drop it in.

The downside of the Windsor based approach is that to install it in the Gal it'll need headers, all accessory mounts and drives, motor mounts, flex plate and pulley system as well as a transmission rebuilt for it. I have a trans builder and have a couple of options there being either a C-6 or C-4.

I'm in too deep on this one to let it go without a major loss. If I at least get a fresh motor in it I like to believe that I "might" break even.

On a positive note the convertible goes into the alignment shop Wednesday morning and I'm now in a position to get the racecar interior and underside painted so I can start putting it together.

Now back to our regularly scheduled programming.

 

[gregkl]

Well, I'm finding myself in a conundrum. . . . finally got the Galaxie dug out and placed in a position where I can drive it on a whim again. The issue is the Galaxie itself, it has kicked me in the teeth so many times since I started it that I'm not sure if I want to move forward with it or unload it. The wife asked me the other day "what's next on the Gal?" To be honest I haven't thought about it all winter. The interior is far from finished but is moving in the right direction and other than the wore out original engine it does run.

The conundrum? What's next on the Gal? Big ticket items left are engine and paint. I'm not opposed to driving it all over the country in gray primer but I'm nervous driving it 50 miles with the engine in its' current state. As to engines I have several options, anything FE is basically a ground up build but I do have a Windsor based 393 stroker sitting on the stand that only lacks heads, cam and a distributor to be a long block with all of the machine work already done.

The downside of an FE approach is it's a COMPLETE rebuild starting with the teardown of the donor 410 Merc I have 4 it. Included in the downside is the cost and the fact that I've never had any luck with that platform having been regularly kicked in the teeth by it every time I've been involved with it. The easy solution is to have it built and dyno-tuned before I ever drop it in.

The downside of the Windsor based approach is that to install it in the Gal it'll need headers, all accessory mounts and drives, motor mounts, flex plate and pulley system as well as a transmission rebuilt for it. I have a trans builder and have a couple of options there being either a C-6 or C-4.

I'm in too deep on this one to let it go without a major loss. If I at least get a fresh motor in it I like to believe that I "might" break even.

On a positive note the convertible goes into the alignment shop Wednesday morning and I'm now in a position to get the racecar interior and underside painted so I can start putting it together.

Now back to our regularly scheduled programming.

Yeah, you have some contemplating to do. For me, I'd give a FE another shot. Find out what it is about it that is kicking my butt and correct that. After a complete rebuild you will know what you have and it will be good.

I'm not much of a fabricator and/or engineer so trying to work out brackets, mounts, etc would be more frustrating.

Which is why when I buy something, it has to be pretty complete and unmolested. I'm finding enough jackleg crap on my Jeep to keep me challenged and entertained but not so much that I throw my hands up in the air and want to torch the thing.

Good luck on your decision.

 

[jeffsqartan]

So I found out about this nifty thing called Speeduino. It used Arduino boards to build an ECU. It can even handle 8 sequential injection. I really wanna mess with it, but not sure of its really suited for any of my applications :/

 

[thunderchicken]

So I found out about this nifty thing called Speeduino. It used Arduino boards to build an ECU. It can even handle 8 sequential injection. I really wanna mess with it, but not sure of its really suited for any of my applications :/

Look out the mad scientist has ideas rolling around in his head again lol

 

[churchmouse]

So I found out about this nifty thing called Speeduino. It used Arduino boards to build an ECU. It can even handle 8 sequential injection. I really wanna mess with it, but not sure of its really suited for any of my applications :/

That you even considered doing your own ECU is to me mind bending because outside of building my own harness that ECU stuff is “Voodoo”.
Building in all the perimeters and curves is mind boggling.
But sounds to be right up your alley.

The 80’s tune “science” comes to mind.

 

[thunderchicken]

That you even considered doing your own ECU is to me mind bending because outside of building my own harness that ECU stuff is “Voodoo”.
Building in all the perimeters and curves is mind boggling.
But sounds to be right up your alley.

The 80’s tune “science” comes to mind.

I'd rather slap an intake and carb on it long before even thinking about building an ECU. I'm kind of simple that way. I deal with the electronics enough at work.

 

[churchmouse]

FM77 I understand the shortcomings of the FE Fords. I watched a couple of die hard FE guys struggle with them over the years. When they were right they ran just fine but making one fast was sometimes a struggle. They have a defined set of limits.
There are a few good shops that can do one for you. But I absolutely hate to pay for something I am fairly good at past doing the heavy lifting such as the machine work.
My big fear these days are cam/lifter break in. Seems a Hydraulic roller is the way to go these days.

Build that 410 and put a nice intake carb combo on it. And go with the C6 yes. Finish it.
JMHO.

 

[Bigtanker]

So I found out about this nifty thing called Speeduino. It used Arduino boards to build an ECU. It can even handle 8 sequential injection. I really wanna mess with it, but not sure of its really suited for any of my applications :/

Tinkercad.

www.tinkercad.com

Virtual Arduino board builder. Great way to build it without actually building it .

 

[Jaybird1980]

 

[femurphy77]

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