The Official Hot Rod Thread

[churchmouse]

Did you have a mullet to go with that?

At one point yes I did.....

 

[RustyHornet]

At one point yes I did.....

 

[RustyHornet]

That's awesome. What a great look, that musta been like 100 years ago...

 

[MuttX7]

Did you have a mullet to go with that?

I bet he had a cb radio, a cowboy hat, a mustache, and a red jacket.

 

[churchmouse]

I bet he had a cb radio, a cowboy hat, a mustache, and a red jacket.
View attachment 48702

Lost that bet.....

 

[churchmouse]

That's awesome. What a great look, that musta been like 100 years ago...

About 105 actually......

 

[MuttX7]

Lost that bet.....

Lmao... Damn the luck.

 

[RustyHornet]

About 105 actually......

 

[MuttX7]

Since I was bored, I looked up drag racing games for my iPhone. Downloaded Mopar Nation Drag and Brag. Not great but not horrible. The funny thing is the cars you start out with in the stock and super stock divisions sure look like a Chevelle and a Camaro.

 

[churchmouse]

Since I was bored, I looked up drag racing games for my iPhone. Downloaded Mopar Nation Drag and Brag. Not great but not horrible. The funny thing is the cars you start out with in the stock and pro-stock divisions sure look like a Chevelle and a Camaro.

Nerds.....they just have no idea.....

 

[MuttX7]

Nerds.....they just have no idea.....

The sad thing is it has a license from Chrysler and Mopar. Some of the higher class cars are Mopars but I have also seen a Mustang and a Camaro with a Firebird on the hood.

 

[Gluemanz28]

Operation 1966 C10 is getting started.

Things found on inspection:
The front of the oil pan is leaking at the timing cover.
Power steering gearbox is leaking at the steering shaft.
Oil pressure drops at an idle to around six pounds when warm on the small journal 327.
TH350 trans is leaking everywhere possible.

The plan:
The oil pressure was checked with another gauge. It shows 20 pound pressure warm at an idle so motor is good. Cheap gauge with plastic line is junk.
The motor is coming out to get the leaks fixed.
New crossmember and suspension from a 1979 c10 is being built with 2.5 inch drop spindles and 2 inch drop springs.
All moving parts on front suspension are getting replaced.
Drum brakes upgraded to disc with new suspension.
TH350 being swapped out with rebuilt one I already have.
Drop spindles change 6 lug to 5 on 5
17 inch American Racing Wheels with rubber TBD
Aluminum radiator with electric fan to replace stock
Vintage air AC heat and air conditioning system
Replace axles with 5 on 5 axels and gears to 3:73 plus posi unit.
Ceremic coated headers


This is just a start and considered phase I

 

[RustyHornet]

That sounds like a plan! Good luck.

 

[RustyHornet]

On the topic of buses. 1989 International Bus-Toy hauler

 

[churchmouse]

Operation 1966 C10 is getting started.

Things found on inspection:
The front of the oil pan is leaking at the timing cover.
Power steering gearbox is leaking at the steering shaft.
Oil pressure drops at an idle to around six pounds when warm on the small journal 327.
TH350 trans is leaking everywhere possible.

The plan:
The oil pressure was checked with another gauge. It shows 20 pound pressure warm at an idle so motor is good. Cheap gauge with plastic line is junk.
The motor is coming out to get the leaks fixed.
New crossmember and suspension from a 1979 c10 is being built with 2.5 inch drop spindles and 2 inch drop springs.
All moving parts on front suspension are getting replaced.
Drum brakes upgraded to disc with new suspension.
TH350 being swapped out with rebuilt one I already have.
Drop spindles change 6 lug to 5 on 5
17 inch American Racing Wheels with rubber TBD
Aluminum radiator with electric fan to replace stock
Vintage air AC heat and air conditioning system
Replace axles with 5 on 5 axels and gears to 3:73 plus posi unit.
Ceremic coated headers


This is just a start and considered phase I

On your engine there should be an oil pressure check tap just behind the timing chain cover at 11:00 on the block. It is a 1/8th pipe thread. That will measure the pressure on the end of the cam oil galley and will let you know what your loss is across the engine. If you are seeing 20 Lbs on the pump end at idle you need to see about 10 on the chain end. Any more and the engine is getting loose.

 

[RustyHornet]

On your engine there should be an oil pressure check tap just behind the timing chain cover at 11:00 on the block. It is a 1/8th pipe thread. That will measure the pressure on the end of the cam oil galley and will let you know what your loss is across the engine. If you are seeing 20 Lbs on the pump end at idle you need to see about 10 on the chain end. Any more and the engine is getting loose.

Loose engine? Time for a blower!!!!

 

[churchmouse]

Loose engine? Time for a blower!!!!

When I was running a budget high winding 366 ci SB chevy this trick was shown to me by a local dirt rack racer. 2 OP gauges in the cluster. It saved my bacon a few times until I could afford a "Good" set of rods.

 

[RustyHornet]

When I was running a budget high winding 366 ci SB chevy this trick was shown to me by a local dirt rack racer. 2 OP gauges in the cluster. It saved my bacon a few times until I could afford a "Good" set of rods.

Lol. Rods... My co worker has a customer with a couple drag cars. They just finished up a big inch Chevy for his dragster earlier this year, he only got a couple passes in before things that used to be inside the engine were outside the engine.... When they were prepping parts and assembling the engine they noted and told the guy the rods should be replaced as they had about 700 passes on them and were out of spec. He didn't want to spend the $2k for new ones so he said "run um"... That was a $30k mistake.

 

[Gluemanz28]

When I was running a budget high winding 366 ci SB chevy this trick was shown to me by a local dirt rack racer. 2 OP gauges in the cluster. It saved my bacon a few times until I could afford a "Good" set of rods.

Good info on the oil pressure tap at 11:00.

The 327 has TRW power forged pistons
steel crank
pink rods
blue print and computer balanced

The motor was a high and fast turner when it had a roller bump stick. It now has a flat tappet hydraulic camshaft so 5500 or less on the ole gal now.

Still plenty enough horses to get me in trouble.

I picked up the front suspension tonight. Next will be to degrease it and remove all the old stuff with new stuff. Nice coat of paint then under the truck it goes.

 

[churchmouse]

Good info on the oil pressure tap at 11:00.

The 327 has TRW power forged pistons
steel crank
pink rods
blue print and computer balanced

The motor was a high and fast turner when it had a roller bump stick. It now has a flat tappet hydraulic camshaft so 5500 or less on the ole gal now.

Still plenty enough horses to get me in trouble.

I picked up the front suspension tonight. Next will be to degrease it and remove all the old stuff with new stuff. Nice coat of paint then under the truck it goes.

The tap may be off from 11:00 position but it is an obvious pipe plug.

I was running "Pink" rods with a lot of prep time in them Polished the beams to relieve stress risers and they were balanced very well. Each rod weighed on the money. The 366 would spin up north of 6500 religiously and saw 7200 on occasion when I had a bad light and had to make things happen.
Stick car so it got rung out real well.
The heads were early Air Flow research cast iron open chamber pieces that were just amazing.
Tunnel ram with dual 600's and a Vertex mag. Crane full mechanical roller. The cam and heads would take the engine into orbit.
The dual gauges had me into the #1 and #2 rods doing bearings twice in one season. That winter it got the rods and a better pump. That made me very brave. 7200 was the base shift point after that improvement with some adventures north of 7500/7800.

That was my last stick race car. It was stupid fast and more fun than anything I had owned/built to that point but the automatic crowd had taken over bracket
racing. Just too hard to beat those guys. Divorce ended that deal.