The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

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  • femurphy77

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    I picked up a spray gun this morning for a finish coat for the first time in 30+ years and it shows. Fortunately for me it's under carriage and engine compartment. I used acrylic enamel and I'm told that I can apply another coat either within an hour or after 48 hours so I'm going to try and flow out the engine compartment a little better. A couple of things I (re)learned this morning; when the primer matches the finish color perfectly it makes it very difficult to paint and wearing glasses that autotune for the sun is probably worse than just wearing sunglasses. Between the two I had a difficult time trying to tell how the paint was going on and if I'd covered everything. Turns out I have a couple of thin spots that will be noticeable when it's all back together hence another coat. This time though I'll do it in the shop with LOTS of light on it.pro

    Still though it's progress! :rockwoot:
     

    churchmouse

    I still care....Really
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    I picked up a spray gun this morning for a finish coat for the first time in 30+ years and it shows. Fortunately for me it's under carriage and engine compartment. I used acrylic enamel and I'm told that I can apply another coat either within an hour or after 48 hours so I'm going to try and flow out the engine compartment a little better. A couple of things I (re)learned this morning; when the primer matches the finish color perfectly it makes it very difficult to paint and wearing glasses that autotune for the sun is probably worse than just wearing sunglasses. Between the two I had a difficult time trying to tell how the paint was going on and if I'd covered everything. Turns out I have a couple of thin spots that will be noticeable when it's all back together hence another coat. This time though I'll do it in the shop with LOTS of light on it.pro

    Still though it's progress! :rockwoot:
    Been years since I used a spray gun and never have used the new style.
     

    thunderchicken

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    I picked up a spray gun this morning for a finish coat for the first time in 30+ years and it shows. Fortunately for me it's under carriage and engine compartment. I used acrylic enamel and I'm told that I can apply another coat either within an hour or after 48 hours so I'm going to try and flow out the engine compartment a little better. A couple of things I (re)learned this morning; when the primer matches the finish color perfectly it makes it very difficult to paint and wearing glasses that autotune for the sun is probably worse than just wearing sunglasses. Between the two I had a difficult time trying to tell how the paint was going on and if I'd covered everything. Turns out I have a couple of thin spots that will be noticeable when it's all back together hence another coat. This time though I'll do it in the shop with LOTS of light on it.pro

    Still though it's progress! :rockwoot:
    Suction gun or HVLP?

    edit- I bought a cheap HVLP gun frim HF several years ago that I used to apply POR-15 and then primer to the undercarriage of my Mustang. I was quite surprised how well the spray pattern was and how well it turned out. Most of our paint work gets done with dad's old Bink's suction gun though
     

    churchmouse

    I still care....Really
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    Suction gun or HVLP?

    edit- I bought a cheap HVLP gun frim HF several years ago that I used to apply POR-15 and then primer to the undercarriage of my Mustang. I was quite surprised how well the spray pattern was and how well it turned out. Most of our paint work gets done with dad's old Bink's suction gun though
    I always used a suction style gun. It’s what we had. That was right at the time the HVLP guns were coming out.
     

    femurphy77

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    Suction gun or HVLP?

    edit- I bought a cheap HVLP gun frim HF several years ago that I used to apply POR-15 and then primer to the undercarriage of my Mustang. I was quite surprised how well the spray pattern was and how well it turned out. Most of our paint work gets done with dad's old Bink's suction gun though
    HVLP. I bought a 3M PPS "system". Seems to work pretty well for this amateur and used very little paint. Although in after thought it is probably why I'll need to add another coat or two to a couple of spots.
     

    thunderchicken

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    I always used a suction style gun. It’s what we had. That was right at the time the HVLP guns were coming out.
    Right after we originally had the chassis done, we took the Tbird over to a shop owned by a friend of my dad. I learned a lot that summer about doing paint prep. Dad and and his friend shot the primer and paint with an old suction gun. He said he had used one his whole career and didn't see any reason to change.
    One reason we went with urethane paint was it didn't require topping it with clear coat to get a good shine out of it.
     

    gregkl

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    Suction gun or HVLP?

    edit- I bought a cheap HVLP gun frim HF several years ago that I used to apply POR-15 and then primer to the undercarriage of my Mustang. I was quite surprised how well the spray pattern was and how well it turned out. Most of our paint work gets done with dad's old Bink's suction gun though
    I went against my better judgement and bought the HF $10 gun as an open box buy for $8. I figured if it didn't work, I'd throw it in the trash.

    First I mixed up some Rustoleum, thinned with Acetone and sprayed black on some parts of the undercarriage. It turned out so good, I got a quart of body color and sprayed the front bumper I bought that was not the color of my Jeep. I also sprayed the bumper corners, and the header that I repaired. Shot some clear on it and it looks pretty darn good.

    I used to paint for GM back in the gas light days so I do know how to handle a spray gun but that was the first time using a BC/CC system.

    Way easier than the lacquers and enamels I used to spray.

    I have a replacement rear liftgate that I will be stripping down and I will use that gun to prime and paint it.
     

    thunderchicken

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    I went against my better judgement and bought the HF $10 gun as an open box buy for $8. I figured if it didn't work, I'd throw it in the trash.

    First I mixed up some Rustoleum, thinned with Acetone and sprayed black on some parts of the undercarriage. It turned out so good, I got a quart of body color and sprayed the front bumper I bought that was not the color of my Jeep. I also sprayed the bumper corners, and the header that I repaired. Shot some clear on it and it looks pretty darn good.

    I used to paint for GM back in the gas light days so I do know how to handle a spray gun but that was the first time using a BC/CC system.

    Way easier than the lacquers and enamels I used to spray.

    I have a replacement rear liftgate that I will be stripping down and I will use that gun to prime and paint it.
    That's sounds like the same model cheap spray gun I bought. I think it was like $9 on sale.
    If you keep the air pressure in check it will lay down some good paint. I was originally expecting it to be just a step above a rattle can. I was quite surprised.
     

    bobzilla

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    Brownswhitanon.
    Well, some work around the truck and some observations. The dipstick pops up under more rpms. added with the smoke I have a bad feeling there is a ring issue on that passenger bank.

    So..... do I pull it apart and fix it then try to sell full price or do I sell as is and hope to get as close to the asking price as possible?
     

    Jaybird1980

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    Well, some work around the truck and some observations. The dipstick pops up under more rpms. added with the smoke I have a bad feeling there is a ring issue on that passenger bank.

    So..... do I pull it apart and fix it then try to sell full price or do I sell as is and hope to get as close to the asking price as possible?
    Man that's hard to say. A good chance someone will want it for LS swap. I guess it depends on how deep you're into it to start with. Pulling the engine could snowball.
     

    bobzilla

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    Brownswhitanon.
    I'm jus under $9k in it with the TKO600, suspension rebuild, engine rebuild, carb, radiator/misc and purchase price. In non-smoking condition this would be likely an easy sale at 9500 because zero rust. Not sure how easy it would be now.
     

    churchmouse

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    Well, some work around the truck and some observations. The dipstick pops up under more rpms. added with the smoke I have a bad feeling there is a ring issue on that passenger bank.

    So..... do I pull it apart and fix it then try to sell full price or do I sell as is and hope to get as close to the asking price as possible?
    More likely a piston issue but I will say ring.
    What is the difference in money to sell as is or full power.

    Edit…I should see if the info has been posted before comment :)
     
    Last edited:

    bobzilla

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    More likely a piston issue but I will say ring.
    What is the difference in money to sell as is or full power.
    That's the thing, I don't know. There's a lot of good stuff here and great bones. But is it worth $7-8k? If I wait until I fix it will the economy be so deep in the ****ter that I won't sell for any amount because disposable income is gone?
     

    bobzilla

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    Parts alone, that trans is $2300, heads another 1,000. Wheels/Tires another grand, rear disc $300, Radiator another $250, wiring harness another $300.... I'm at $5k in parts, plus two spare doors/windows and second set of wheels plus a rust free body and frame from Arizona.
     

    Jaybird1980

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    Parts alone, that trans is $2300, heads another 1,000. Wheels/Tires another grand, rear disc $300, Radiator another $250, wiring harness another $300.... I'm at $5k in parts, plus two spare doors/windows and second set of wheels plus a rust free body and frame from Arizona.
    But it's been notched if I remember correctly. That will limit the audience some.

    Kind of a damned if you do situation. If you put a new non LS engine in, you basically remove the LS swap guys from the potential buyers. I feel like that's the crowd a notched 6 spd square body is aimed at
     

    bobzilla

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    Even if you go cheap you're looking at 2 to 3k for a rebuild. Maybe find a decent lt1 to swap into it?
    It was rebuilt 2 years ago. Heads and block should be fine. Crank kit is good. All I will likely need would be pistons/rings and possibly an overbore (still stock bore). Overbore would be 2-300, pistons $150-250, rings another $40-60 and a gasket set for $100. Should be under $700 and all my free labor.
     
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    Jaybird1980

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    I was rebuilt 2 years ago. Heads and block should be fine. Crank kit is good. All I will likely need would be pistons/rings and possibly an overbore (still stock bore). Overbore would be 2-300, pistons $150-250, rings another $40-60 and a gasket set for $100. Should be under $700 and all my free labor.
    Any chance you have a borescope, take a look in the cylinder
     
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