Are Armscor 1911s the REAL 1911 over others available?

[churchmouse]

Thanks guys........(blushing)

I am looking at new barrels for the Thompson. The link and lugs are crap. Looking at a Wilson or Beahr drop in piece. Price is right and minimal fitting

 

[SERparacord]

Thanks guys........(blushing)

I am looking at new barrels for the Thompson. The link and lugs are crap. Looking at a Wilson or Beahr drop in piece. Price is right and minimal fitting

Ed Brown 1911 handguns, 1911 parts

 

[Wabatuckian]

Thanks guys........(blushing)

I am looking at new barrels for the Thompson. The link and lugs are crap. Looking at a Wilson or Beahr drop in piece. Price is right and minimal fitting

I'd highly recommend a Kart Easy Fit if you do not have a lug cutter.

Basically what they did was they cut the lower lugs for you and welded up the upper lugs. This is an accepted method of tightening a stock barrel, by the way...

1911 AUTO EASY FIT BARREL KIT | Brownells

I don't have a lug cutter yet or I'd let you borrow it. Been buying a lot of 1911 tools but nothing on that lug cutter yet. Hopefully before the year is out!

Keep us posted. I love to see folks getting into the guts of the 1911. Glocks are for folks who drive Hondas. 1911s are for those of us who spent a great deal of time building small blocks and such...

Josh

 

[philbert001]

I love to see folks getting into the guts of the 1911. Glocks are for folks who drive Hondas. 1911s are for those of us who spent a great deal of time building small blocks and such...

Josh

Well put!

 

[ghitch75]

i welded lower lugs and took a chainsaw file to tighten up barrels in the 80's........upper lugs where still kind of tight.......you take a 50 buc all must wore out Colt from a gun show......i could take one that had a shotgun group to around 2" at 10y.......i thought i was really doing something....

 

[churchmouse]

I'd highly recommend a Kart Easy Fit if you do not have a lug cutter.

Basically what they did was they cut the lower lugs for you and welded up the upper lugs. This is an accepted method of tightening a stock barrel, by the way...

1911 AUTO EASY FIT BARREL KIT | Brownells

I don't have a lug cutter yet or I'd let you borrow it. Been buying a lot of 1911 tools but nothing on that lug cutter yet. Hopefully before the year is out!

Keep us posted. I love to see folks getting into the guts of the 1911. Glocks are for folks who drive Hondas. 1911s are for those of us who spent a great deal of time building small blocks and such...

Josh

I ordered a drop in from Ed Brown off brownells lest night. Thought I would give that a try.

I agree. The 1911 is a gun that can be modified and improved (yeah, I said that ) by some one with the inclination. I have been building motors of all sorts since maybe around 12/13 years old.
The small block comment hit the nail on the head with me.
Not trying to change course of this great thread but the pic is one of the last small blocks I built...just north off 600 at the crank with out the spray. 391 C.I. stroker.

 

[churchmouse]

i welded lower lugs and took a chainsaw file to tighten up barrels in the 80's........upper lugs where still kind of tight.......you take a 50 buc all must wore out Colt from a gun show......i could take one that had a shotgun group to around 2" at 10y.......i thought i was really doing something....

You were. I have a tig welder but it is an older one and not good for critical work. I have access to several that are good for finite welding but getting out to do it is sometimes a hassle.
I looked at a lug cutting kit on brownells last night with all that we have been discussing but I just worked a deal on a Springfield in stainless. I am an addict.........

 

[philbert001]

Holy cow CM! The AN fitting people wish you'd build more smallblocks!

Back on track, I'll start here, since my pistol is as basic as they come. I've learned a lot about my 1911, (Fine! 1911A1!), during this thread, and have torn mine down several times in the last several days, to compare, measure, etc!

I believe I'll be joining the camp of riding the lugs into battery. Unfortunately, it appears that my pistol has joined the link riding camp!

I tried to take pics of wear on the lugs, showing just a little contact in battery, but my camera isn't cooperating! I think this pic of my slide stop tells the tale.

If I go to the oversized link, am I correct in assuming that the barrel will drop just enough to ride the lugs into battery? I am confident that I can handle that part, but I'm curious what all will be affected by lowering the where she rides by a couple .001's

 

[churchmouse]

Holy cow CM! The AN fitting people wish you'd build more smallblocks!

Back on track, I'll start here, since my pistol is as basic as they come. I've learned a lot about my 1911, (Fine! 1911A1!), during this thread, and have torn mine down several times in the last several days, to compare, measure, etc!

I believe I'll be joining the camp of riding the lugs into battery. Unfortunately, it appears that my pistol has joined the link riding camp!

I tried to take pics of wear on the lugs, showing just a little contact in battery, but my camera isn't cooperating! I think this pic of my slide stop tells the tale.

If I go to the oversized link, am I correct in assuming that the barrel will drop just enough to ride the lugs into battery? I am confident that I can handle that part, but I'm curious what all will be affected by lowering the where she rides by a couple .001's

You do have the option of welding/cutting the lugs as mentioned.

This is one of the reasons I opted for a new barrel. This and the fact it (link) was loose as a goose.

 

[philbert001]

I think I'm on the right track. When in battery, I think the only reason I don't have battle rattle, is because the link is pushing up on the rear of the barrel, rocking it on the upper lugs, and pushing down on the bushing. My bushing fits the slide pretty sloppy, but is pushed down tight by the barrel, when in battery.

With the slide off, if I push up on the barrel, from right below the locking lugs, the barrel centers itself and the sloppy bushing centers itself.

Should both locking lugs be locked up the same?

My thinking tells me they should, but with the link pushing up, it seems to lock more on the rear locking lug than the front one, thus, teetering the muzzle down.

My thinking tells me that replacing the tight link, then contouring my lower lugs, as Josh described a few pages ago, will allow both locking lugs to lock up equally, and it will center my barrel and bushing in the slide better.

At this point, my sloppy bushing will no longer seem tight, as it will be floating, instead of pinned down by the barrel, as it is now.

AT this point, I assume it'll be time to fit a new bushing. Would you guys recommend a drop in for me, or should I get an oversized one, and work it down? Will I need to spend a bunch of cash on tooling? I have small files, stones and sandpaper out the wazoo, but don't know if there are any specialty tools involved.

Hope I'm not getting too far off of the intended direction of the thread!

 

[philbert001]

You do have the option of welding/cutting the lugs as mentioned.

This is one of the reasons I opted for a new barrel. This and the fact it (link) was loose as a goose.

Does a new barrel come with oversized lugs, to fit as needed? Do you have to fit upper and lower lugs? Even on a "Semi" drop in?

 

[calcot7]

Just buy a new Khar owned Auto-Ordnance, WWII, Army model and be done with it.

 

[churchmouse]

Just buy a new Khar owned Auto-Ordnance, WWII, Army model and be done with it.

If you have read the thread you would realize I have just bought one and it is a total POS. Pure
I would expect this level of build in an RIA and not been surprised or disappointing but for a gun listed at just south of $700.00 I am just PI$$ED.
Read back through the thread for the back story.

 

[philbert001]

Just buy a new Khar owned Auto-Ordnance, WWII, Army model and be done with it.

"It" being the 1911 hobby? We're not hearing good things about those here!

 

[88E30M50]

I think I'm on the right track. When in battery, I think the only reason I don't have battle rattle, is because the link is pushing up on the rear of the barrel, rocking it on the upper lugs, and pushing down on the bushing. My bushing fits the slide pretty sloppy, but is pushed down tight by the barrel, when in battery.

With the slide off, if I push up on the barrel, from right below the locking lugs, the barrel centers itself and the sloppy bushing centers itself.

Should both locking lugs be locked up the same?

My thinking tells me they should, but with the link pushing up, it seems to lock more on the rear locking lug than the front one, thus, teetering the muzzle down.

My thinking tells me that replacing the tight link, then contouring my lower lugs, as Josh described a few pages ago, will allow both locking lugs to lock up equally, and it will center my barrel and bushing in the slide better.

At this point, my sloppy bushing will no longer seem tight, as it will be floating, instead of pinned down by the barrel, as it is now.

AT this point, I assume it'll be time to fit a new bushing. Would you guys recommend a drop in for me, or should I get an oversized one, and work it down? Will I need to spend a bunch of cash on tooling? I have small files, stones and sandpaper out the wazoo, but don't know if there are any specialty tools involved.

Hope I'm not getting too far off of the intended direction of the thread!

I've ordered two bushings from EGW. The second one was custom cut to fit my DE and required some fitting when I got it to make it just right. That was expected as I ordered it .001 over for that reason. The first was an angle bore bushing for the Remy I have and it was a perfect drop in fit. If you send them your barrel specs as well as the slide specs, they can help you figure out what you need if custom or if a stock bushing will work. Also, you may want to add a flat bottom FPS while you are there. They do make a difference and since they come oversize, they can be very helpful in keeping your extractor from clocking when fit correctly.

Holy cow CM! The AN fitting people wish you'd build more smallblocks!

Back on track, I'll start here, since my pistol is as basic as they come. I've learned a lot about my 1911, (Fine! 1911A1!), during this thread, and have torn mine down several times in the last several days, to compare, measure, etc!

I believe I'll be joining the camp of riding the lugs into battery. Unfortunately, it appears that my pistol has joined the link riding camp!

I tried to take pics of wear on the lugs, showing just a little contact in battery, but my camera isn't cooperating! I think this pic of my slide stop tells the tale.

If I go to the oversized link, am I correct in assuming that the barrel will drop just enough to ride the lugs into battery? I am confident that I can handle that part, but I'm curious what all will be affected by lowering the where she rides by a couple .001's

What about slotting the link a couple of thousandths? That would allow the barrel to ride the lug as the slide comes forward, yet retain the same timing as the slide unlocks and the link pulls the barrel out of battery. The biggest downside of that is that you lose a couple of thousandths engagement in the upper lug. You could also use a shorter link but I think that could mess with the barrel timing when coming out of battery.

 

[philbert001]

What about slotting the link a couple of thousandths? That would allow the barrel to ride the lug as the slide comes forward, yet retain the same timing as the slide unlocks and the link pulls the barrel out of battery. The biggest downside of that is that you lose a couple of thousandths engagement in the upper lug. You could also use a shorter link but I think that could mess with the barrel timing when coming out of battery.

As much downward pressure as the barrel was putting on the bushing, I think that if I slot/replace the link, then install a more centered/tighter bushing, they should cancel each other out, as far as where the locking lugs seat.

I actually did some work on the locking lugs last night. I noticed that they were only engaging the top 60 degrees or so of the lugs. After about an hour with files and stones, it is now engaging the entire 180 degrees, locking up tighter to the slide, and reduced my endplay to well under the acceptable .010".

I also noticed that reducing the endplay seems to have relieved some of the downward pressure on the bushing. I think at this point, a centered bushing will push the rear of the barrel down just enough to make up for a slotted/oversized link, without sacrificing lockup with the slide!

I'm just a rookie with a cheap 1911, so If it sounds like I'm making a hand grenade here, PLEASE tell me to stop! (My engineering background tells me I'm doing ok, but you never know!)

 

[hps]

I've read this thread from the beginning, and I'm trying to figure out, Are some of you guys bullseye shooters? or just like tearing ur guns apart filing some factory parts and putting new part in to make a better bullseye shooting better functioning handgun?
I'm not bashing anyone here, But the level of accuracy that I have experienced from some factory 1911's (and maybe I have been really lucky) is truely outstanding. I'm not a bullseye shooter, if I can ring the steel or drop the pin off the table its all good, I do like a reliable hangun just like the next guy. but seems a lil odd to buy a $5-600 1911 KNOWING ur gonna drop another $200 in QUALITY parts into it. I say roll it til the wheels fall off then fix em.

 

[philbert001]

I've read this thread from the beginning, and I'm trying to figure out, Are some of you guys bullseye shooters? or just like tearing ur guns apart filing some factory parts and putting new part in to make a better bullseye shooting better functioning handgun?
I'm not bashing anyone here, But the level of accuracy that I have experienced from some factory 1911's (and maybe I have been really lucky) is truely outstanding. I'm not a bullseye shooter, if I can ring the steel or drop the pin off the table its all good, I do like a reliable hangun just like the next guy. but seems a lil odd to buy a $5-600 1911 KNOWING ur gonna drop another $200 in QUALITY parts into it. I say roll it til the wheels fall off then fix em.

For the most part, I'm with you, but if I can modify/replace one part, have a more reliable pistol, while at the same time, keeping the gun from eating 2 other parts, I'll do it! (That, and I just like tearing my guns apart, learning, and tinkering!)

 

[churchmouse]

I've read this thread from the beginning, and I'm trying to figure out, Are some of you guys bullseye shooters? or just like tearing ur guns apart filing some factory parts and putting new part in to make a better bullseye shooting better functioning handgun?
I'm not bashing anyone here, But the level of accuracy that I have experienced from some factory 1911's (and maybe I have been really lucky) is truely outstanding. I'm not a bullseye shooter, if I can ring the steel or drop the pin off the table its all good, I do like a reliable hangun just like the next guy. but seems a lil odd to buy a $5-600 1911 KNOWING ur gonna drop another $200 in QUALITY parts into it. I say roll it til the wheels fall off then fix em.

I understand and agree to a point. I have had a few 1911's that we just ran the snot out of with no mods. Lately, I have been finding a lot of satisfaction and enjoyment in the search for "More" in my guns. If you saw the pick up thread of the small block I built you will understand (or not) that enough...in and of it's self is never "Enough".
took a really sweet shooting Springfield Range Officer and laid it out. Is it a better shooter, you betcha it is. Did it need the amount of work/money I put into it, No. It was a great gun out of the box but again, enough never is.
I have approached every hobby in this way. How far can I stretch this out. What can be found in this engine/chassis/gun/motor cycle/how fast or hard can I make this go.
Doing this keeps me out of trouble........or not.

 

[hps]

I understand and agree to a point. I have had a few 1911's that we just ran the snot out of with no mods. Lately, I have been finding a lot of satisfaction and enjoyment in the search for "More" in my guns. If you saw the pick up thread of the small block I built you will understand (or not) that enough...in and of it's self is never "Enough".
took a really sweet shooting Springfield Range Officer and laid it out. Is it a better shooter, you betcha it is. Did it need the amount of work/money I put into it, No. It was a great gun out of the box but again, enough never is.
I have approached every hobby in this way. How far can I stretch this out. What can be found in this engine/chassis/gun/motor cycle/how fast or hard can I make this go.
Doing this keeps me out of trouble........or not.

Curious if you stretched the RO out til failure or signs of wear, or did you just feel the need to change parts that u deemed unfit or not acceptable?