The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 2: No Replacement For Displacement

[thunderchicken]

That's awesome Rusty

 

[churchmouse]

This is the little jewel I have on the bench at present. CP's pieces are at the machine shop (again) so I need to get this one done.
S/S big bore pieces. Started as a 121 CI piece. I just buttoned up the cases around a new set of wheels thet put it at 131 with the .010 over bore. New cam and valve train. This thing will get and keep your attention I am very sure.

 

[ChristianPatriot]

What’s it going into?

 

[churchmouse]

What’s it going into?

I built the kid a Hardtail hot-Rod some years back with a 96 CI stroker. He beat that into the ground and bought the 121 from S/S and now he wants........wait for it.......more power. There might or might not be a Nitrous kit somewhere close.

 

[ChristianPatriot]

Lot o cubes for 2 cylinders. That’s equivalent to a 524ci V8.

 

[churchmouse]

Lot o cubes for 2 cylinders. That’s equivalent to a 524ci V8.

There are electronic compression releases in both heads.

 

[ChristianPatriot]

There are electronic compression releases in both heads.

Wicked

 

[RustyHornet]

Met a local racing legend last night. I had answered a post on Facebook from a younger guy looking for some help bending some brake lines. Nobody else wanted to help him, I like bending lines so I stepped up. Turns out his dad is a legend! Got to check the car out, pretty damn neat.

https://www.nhra.com/news/2016/survivor-s-story

 

[thunderchicken]

Halfmile and Rusty point me in the right direction. I only want to do this once. Ok so as I mentioned a couple days ago I am about to replace rocker panels. My plan has been to coat the inside with weld thru etching primer and maybe a coat of rattle can black to fight aginst future rust. I have been doing some reading and now I'm not sure if I should use the weld thru etching primer or if I would be better off using an epoxy primer?? I also thought about some 3M cavity wax after its done.. But not real sure if it actually dries like a paint or if it stays kinda greasy. If it's greasy my concern would be it running out and dripping.
I just don't want to screw this up and dang sure don't want to be fighting rust in a couple years

 

[RustyHornet]

Halfmile and Rusty point me in the right direction. I only want to do this once. Ok so as I mentioned a couple days ago I am about to replace rocker panels. My plan has been to coat the inside with weld thru etching primer and maybe a coat of rattle can black to fight aginst future rust. I have been doing some reading and now I'm not sure if I should use the weld thru etching primer or if I would be better off using an epoxy primer?? I also thought about some 3M cavity wax after its done.. But not real sure if it actually dries like a paint or if it stays kinda greasy. If it's greasy my concern would be it running out and dripping.
I just don't want to screw this up and dang sure don't want to be fighting rust in a couple years

I would coat with epoxy if you can, it’s not needed, but will help. Clean off where you’re going to weld. After you get it installed you can spray a cavity wax everywhere. It will run out and drip till it dries. It will remain somewhat soft forever, you’ll be able to scrap it off with your finger nail, but it will not run out once it’s cured. Keep the vehicle clean, especially in the winter, run it though an underbody a couple times a week if you can. Reapply the cavity wax once a year or every couple years. You’ll be just fine.

 

[femurphy77]

Met a local racing legend last night. I had answered a post on Facebook from a younger guy looking for some help bending some brake lines. Nobody else wanted to help him, I like bending lines so I stepped up. Turns out his dad is a legend! Got to check the car out, pretty damn neat.

https://www.nhra.com/news/2016/survivor-s-story

I love this understatement: “I turn almost 9,000 rpm at the finish line, and that can be hard on parts. . . . . "

 

[thunderchicken]

I would coat with epoxy if you can, it’s not needed, but will help. Clean off where you’re going to weld. After you get it installed you can spray a cavity wax everywhere. It will run out and drip till it dries. It will remain somewhat soft forever, you’ll be able to scrap it off with your finger nail, but it will not run out once it’s cured. Keep the vehicle clean, especially in the winter, run it though an underbody a couple times a week if you can. Reapply the cavity wax once a year or every couple years. You’ll be just fine.

Right on. I will go pick up some epoxy primer and will probably pick up the cavity wax too. Shouldn't be too difficult to keep clean since it won't be driven in the rain and probably won't be driven on the street.

 

[churchmouse]

Right on. I will go pick up some epoxy primer and will probably pick up the cavity wax too. Shouldn't be too difficult to keep clean since it won't be driven in the rain and probably won't be driven on the street.

Not on the street.......Say it aint so man.......say it.

 

[thunderchicken]

Not on the street.......Say it aint so man.......say it.

Kinda depends on how much it will cost to insure. Plus Lets be honest a 588cuin engine with 13.5:1 compression isn't exactly "streetable" since it will require race gas. The original plan was a small block. But since we have the 588 just sitting in the corner..why not? Lol

Its the same engine we originally had in the Tbird back in 2004. The very first full pass went 9.74 on motor at @ 3400lbs.
In the Mustang it will be challenged with being a "stock suspension" small tire car (29.5x10.5w or 315/60 radial).

 

[churchmouse]

Kinda depends on how much it will cost to insure. Plus Lets be honest a 588cuin engine with 13.5:1 compression isn't exactly "streetable" since it will require race gas. The original plan was a small block. But since we have the 588 just sitting in the corner..why not? Lol

OK.....you are now officially "OLD"

 

[thunderchicken]

OK.....you are now officially "OLD"

Say what? How does this make me old?
I may have to retreat to a safe space lol

 

[churchmouse]

Say what? How does this make me old?
I may have to retreat to a safe space lol

You sound like my Dad.....

Insurance...price of gas.....

 

[thunderchicken]

You sound like my Dad.....

Insurance...price of gas.....

Says the guy that was there when Jesus got his first pair of sandals.

Its called being frugal...er responsible.....I'm not helping my cause here am I? Lol. Never been called "old" by someone older than me before. I'm used to it from my kids

 

[halfmileharry]

Kinda depends on how much it will cost to insure. Plus Lets be honest a 588cuin engine with 13.5:1 compression isn't exactly "streetable" since it will require race gas. The original plan was a small block. But since we have the 588 just sitting in the corner..why not? Lol

Its the same engine we originally had in the Tbird back in 2004. The very first full pass went 9.74 on motor at @ 3400lbs.
In the Mustang it will be challenged with being a "stock suspension" small tire car (29.5x10.5w or 315/60 radial).

"Streetable" ??? 13.5/1 Race gas... Isn't that like ammo? I thought that just went with the turf of a street rod hobby. Fast ain't never gonna be cheap or "budget" minded.

 

[thunderchicken]

"Streetable" ??? 13.5/1 Race gas... Isn't that like ammo? I thought that just went with the turf of a street rod hobby. Fast ain't never gonna be cheap or "budget" minded.

I never claimed it would be cheap and there's really no such thing as a budget build. I get it
I'm just not convinced that driving it on the street makes sense. I don't think I could even make it to the Suds without either running out of gas or maybe overheating. High compression builds heat fast.