The Official 3d Printing thread

[1911ly]

Thanks! I unboxed it yesterday, but ran out of time. Hopefully I can get it set up today.

I already have a few questions, so maybe you can help....

1) Do I 100% NEED the Flexystuder to print flexible filament?
2) I went to Purdue for CGT, so I am pretty well versed in modeling in 3DS Max and Inventor. Can those be used to model and then print, or will I have to export my models and run them through a separate program?
3) I'm interested in using that water soluble support filament, which obviously means I would need the dual extruder. Everything I hear about Lulzbot is extremely positive, but I hear mixed reviews on their dual extruder. Any thoughts?
4) Is that Defense Distributed AR lower still floating around somewhere, (legally)?

I'm sure I'll have more when I start printing.

Hey, how are you doing with your new Printer

 

[Sylvain]

Hey Larry, are you put Glock out of business yet?

 

[Sailor]

Love the attitude Larry, I tell my kids often if I died tomorrow I am ok with it, no regrets.

That guys air source is an aquarium pump. So no computer control of the fans, but a radial should work. Everytime I have an idea someone on thingverse has already done it. I will start looking.

 

[Sailor]

Got all my cables wrapped except the hot end and the bed. Doing those tonight with 1/2 spiral wrapping. In looking at it, it seems that the attachement at the bed is a stress point as well as connection to the relay which we know about.

 

[1911ly]

Hey Larry, are you put Glock out of business yet?

Soon brother, soon! I am planning on printing you a paper weight when I get things the way I want them.

Love the attitude Larry, I tell my kids often if I died tomorrow I am ok with it, no regrets.

That guys air source is an aquarium pump. So no computer control of the fans, but a radial should work. Everytime I have an idea someone on thingverse has already done it. I will start looking.

I am going to tinker with that ideal. I have several radial fans. I will see what I can come up with. The bracket for the current print cooler could easily be reused too. If I come up with something usable I will share the STL files.

My wife and I both beleived we should have some of the things we really wanted. I am so glad we did. She was in to scrap booking, needle point and knitting and had tons of that stuff. She had a lot of fun doing it and going to scrap booking things with her girl friends. I had my hamfest stuff. For years I made a living just doing shows. I am so glad she could do all she did when she could. Tomorrow isn't promised. Live like there is no tomorrow, as long as the bills are paid :-)

Got all my cables wrapped except the hot end and the bed. Doing those tonight with 1/2 spiral wrapping. In looking at it, it seems that the attachement at the bed is a stress point as well as connection to the relay which we know about.

I think I want to print a bracket that would attach to the aluminum bed plate (requiring a few small holes) that would stick out the back enough to put a cable clamp or a wire tie. I am not really keen on the ideal of the wires not being sported. Then on the print head I think I will machine a spacer maybe 10mm in diameter and maybe 15 or so MM long and then thread it threw for M5 threads. Then screw it to the end of the screw on one of the Delrin pulleys. Then put a wire loop on the open end, that way the wiring on the head is supported too. If and when I do it I would gladly make you one too. NP

I designed a new case for the display from scratch. I am doing a test print for fit if the board. This one will have a back cover. I am still dwelling on moving the controller and power supply.

Another thing that I have been dwelling on is I don't know why they did not put a diode on the relay coil to block EMD's (electro magnetic discharge's) coming from the coil. It's basic design 101. I qm going to add them to both machines. You should too. It's like chicken noodle soup. It won't hurt to try it. once you add the diode the wires are polarity sensitive. One of the wires should be changed to a different color, (like red) and that wire would go to cathode of diode.

 

[Sailor]

Yeah that diode thing.... Glad you are here for input lol.

When bed leveling in Marlin I am now hitting the glass at 4mm standard height on the left side. Easy fix adjust my Z endstop or change some software settings?

Cable routing much better still would like at add an accessory terminal for fans, led's etc.

 

[1911ly]

Yeah that diode thing.... Glad you are here for input lol.

When bed leveling in Marlin I am now hitting the glass at 4mm standard height on the left side. Easy fix adjust my Z endstop or change some software settings?

Cable routing much better still would like at add an accessory terminal for fans, led's etc.

I would adjust the Z end stop. I adjusted mine until a piece of paper would pull out with just a little drag on it. But home the axis's first. Then set it to disable steppers, then after you adjust the first corner move the X axis over to the other side of the bed and adjust it the same, then push the Y axis back and do the sam e then side X over to the other side then. All corners are roughly leveled. That way the head can not hit the glass at any point of adjustment. Then rely on the auto bed level for periodic adjustments.

Your machine looks great. I want to do the same with LED's. I'd like to know the bed and hot end are off and on along with the print fam too.

The promised update, excuse the mess:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X51yG5H9NlQ&feature=youtu.be

[URL=http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/w9amr/media/The%20beast/the%20beast_zpsqihvfk1k.jpg.html]
[/URL]

 

[Sheepdog Gear]

Hey, how are you doing with your new Printer

Learning as I go! On my 5th print now. I have a lot to learn!

 

[1911ly]

Learning as I go! On my 5th print now. I have a lot to learn!

Awesome. I take to you could export files from the program you know in to a slicer program? I envy your skills! I am a total 3d modeling rookie/noob!

 

[Sailor]

I cant even make a spacer for my cars cupholder I am the noob in CAD.

Just to clarify, after I adjust the z end stop at each corner they highest corner will be set with just a little paper drag, then the rest will have more space that I can adjust in the bed leveling procedure correct?

I am having internet connection issues tonight, can not see your video will check it in the am.

Post some pics of your prints Sheep!

 

[1911ly]

I cant even make a spacer for my cars cupholder I am the noob in CAD.

Just to clarify, after I adjust the z end stop at each corner they highest corner will be set with just a little paper drag, then the rest will have more space that I can adjust in the bed leveling procedure correct?

I am having internet connection issues tonight, can not see your video will check it in the am.

Post some pics of your prints Sheep!

The lowest corner might be the best. I just notice in your pictures that you have the deluxe upgrade kit. No springs, so no corner adjustments in your setup. So you need to set it to the lowest corner if you don't have enough travel to hit the bed with the auto level. Try the highest then move it down if you can't get the paper to drag. Just make sure you can get it low enough. I also adjust the bed while it is hot. It will change from hot to cold quiet a bit. I am not sure of the advantage of fixed corners. I can see it breaking breaking the glass if the nozzle hits the glass with enough force.

 

[Sailor]

Yeah my kit instructions said to use the spacers, I have springs and could use them to fully manually level the bed, or continue to software manual OR just get a BL touch and make sure my print head has enough room all around. My bench is not level, I have shimmed it but its not perfect. I made it to pound stuff on long before this project came along.

 

[Sailor]

My bench is 3/4 plywood top with a 1/4 of that shiny fiberboard overlaid on top, my thinking when I made it was its smooth and if I stain it up or damage it, it is easy and cheap to just unscrew and replace. But, it is slippery and my printer is shimmed a little and moves easily. Put a level on the top X and Y of frame, and re-shimmed it. then put a big C clamp on it just to keep it from casually getting moved around, I did not crank down on it.

Then I re-leveled the Y extrustions, I am much better off now, All I need is a smaller level like 6 inches or so to lay on top of that X axis.

 

[Sailor]

Threaded leveling feet on each corner is needed.

 

[Sheepdog Gear]

Awesome. I take to you could export files from the program you know in to a slicer program? I envy your skills! I am a total 3d modeling rookie/noob!

Yep! It works, but I haven't tried a print from one of the exported files yet.

Post some pics of your prints Sheep!

I sure will! I'm printing one from your mega pack now. That pack is awesome! Thanks again!

 

[1911ly]

Yeah my kit instructions said to use the spacers, I have springs and could use them to fully manually level the bed, or continue to software manual OR just get a BL touch and make sure my print head has enough room all around. My bench is not level, I have shimmed it but its not perfect. I made it to pound stuff on long before this project came along.

You could still install the springs if you wanted. Just for the safety factor. I bought a BL touch probe to tinker with.

My bench is 3/4 plywood top with a 1/4 of that shiny fiberboard overlaid on top, my thinking when I made it was its smooth and if I stain it up or damage it, it is easy and cheap to just unscrew and replace. But, it is slippery and my printer is shimmed a little and moves easily. Put a level on the top X and Y of frame, and re-shimmed it. then put a big C clamp on it just to keep it from casually getting moved around, I did not crank down on it.

Then I re-leveled the Y extrustions, I am much better off now, All I need is a smaller level like 6 inches or so to lay on top of that X axis.

Threaded leveling feet on each corner is needed.

It's more important that the machine be square mechanically in to itself then sitting level on a table. Mine also rocks on the table. I dropped in some T nuts in the bottom frame rail when I built it so I can mount some adjustable feet. I am going to put plate in the corner of the frame and weld a nut to that so the feet can screw in to the plate. I also want to add some felt pads on the feet to quiet the vibration down some.

 

[Sailor]

Finally saw your video looks great, and looks like its printing very good.

 

[Sailor]

2nd printer up and runs, kinda. Really bad results, just tried to move a 20mm calibration cube from my computer to and sd card but the printer does not print the code like it is supposed to. Oh and the fact that EVERY sd reader ever made sucks.

I dont have computer hooked up this one and its a pain.

My vertical beams have a little play in them I need to fix that.

[video=youtube;M8lEGMFTHoo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8lEGMFTHoo[/video]

 

[Sailor]

One reason I found out why the prints were bad. Missing set screw on X axis gear. I literally have hundreds of M-bolts and nuts. It does not matter how many you have. The one you need you will end up having to order on Amazon.

Anyone know what size that tiny thing is?

 

[1911ly]

One reason I found out why the prints were bad. Missing set screw on X axis gear. I literally have hundreds of M-bolts and nuts. It does not matter how many you have. The one you need you will end up having to order on Amazon.

Anyone know what size that tiny thing is?

It might actually be a standard thread. I can check that when i get home in a bit.