The Official 3d Printing thread

[1911ly]

1911 this thing is torn apart now, post some pics of Harrys wiring organization when you get a chance.

Thanks.

I will be over there tomorrow, I will get pictures!

 

[1911ly]

If I knew more about electronics before building this I would have known that 16 AWG is too thin for the amps being drawn. I did not even know how many amps that was. The build instructions do not specify, but show using the speaker wire that was referenced in the parts needed. Which was 16 awg. Literally following instructions can get you in trouble.


Colin says I can double up the two ramps power wires and fan on a connector then have the heat bed on its own. Newer kits have the relay already attached.


Picking up some 12 or 10 AWG on way home from work and will see if it works.

12 will be too heavy to fit the plugs. If you go with stranded wire you can remove 4 or 5 strands. Tin the ends and make sure the clipped wires in the wire (near the insulation get solder solid to the others. We used 2 12ga pairs on Harry's but could have used 14 ga.

 

[Sailor]

I am usually the guy that over tightens stuff. But those heat bed wires are stiff and when the bed moves back and forth, it may be moving some of the other wires/relay. I need to stress relief those areas.

Two small wires on top of relay are soldered in and plug into Ramps D8, Black and red are the 16awg I will be switching out.

 

[Sailor]

2 sets of 12awg it is then.

Thanks.

If I get it working I will run some thermal video on it and see how even the bed heats up and monitor any hot spots.

 

[Ericpwp]

Are you sure that those aren't the relay control wires? If they are they don't carry much current so no need to swap them. I don't have a relay on mine.

 

[Sailor]

You are correct.

 

[1911ly]

Yep, those are control wires. No current there to speak of. You can change those to a more supple wire if you want. I am moving things around a lot making changes. Sooner or later mine will break and get swapped. I printed the same cooling fan you did sailor, I will post some pictures in a bit. It came out ok. I left the base on the plate to cool and it warped a smidgen. That area doesn't need to be flat or square. So I am gonna run with it. I seem to have the best luck with ABS when I get it off the plate ASAP!

I will post some pictures in a bit.

 

[Sailor]

Wondering if auto bed leveling will fit with those dual cooling fans. Thats a lot of crap hangin on that hot end.

 

[4651feeder]

Ace Hdwe has bulk appliance (drill) cord that when split open and separated provides silicone insulated wires which will reduce strain at your heat bed connections.

 

[1911ly]

Wondering if auto bed leveling will fit with those dual cooling fans. Thats a lot of crap hangin on that hot end.

Yeah. I am looking at a different type of servo/switch step. It can be mounted to the back side of the extruder carriage. This thing is a work in progress. lol.

 

[1911ly]

This is the fan setup.











I might get it mounted and wired later tonight. The print came came out ok. It needs to be in an enclosed case to print ABS better.

 

[Sailor]

That print cooler is going to work too well I believe.

Ok all fixed up though that 12 awg is some stiff stuff to get to that relay which is in the crappiest location.

Thermal video. [video=youtube;-mRQFF6Vk7I]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-mRQFF6Vk7I[/video]

 

[Ericpwp]

That's a sweet camera!

 

[1911ly]

Yes, that is one sweet camera! I bet the print looks pretty cool to look at! Glad you got it back going. You ca still use that melted connection. Just use it for controls.

Great job getting her going!

 

[1911ly]

Ok, I can't print ABS to save my ass tonight!

 

[Sailor]

Whats the issue? I hate that.

I am going to enclose the top of the printer with thin plywood I have on hand the sides with some foam board on hand but want the front clear. What type of plastic should I look for? Something easy to cut and cheap would be great.

Also going to print a 40mm fan mount to blow on that ramps board just for giggles.

 

[1911ly]

Whats the issue? I hate that.

I am going to enclose the top of the printer with thin plywood I have on hand the sides with some foam board on hand but want the front clear. What type of plastic should I look for? Something easy to cut and cheap would be great.

Also going to print a 40mm fan mount to blow on that ramps board just for giggles.

Whats the issue? I hate that.

I am going to enclose the top of the printer with thin plywood I have on hand the sides with some foam board on hand but want the front clear. What type of plastic should I look for? Something easy to cut and cheap would be great.

Also going to print a 40mm fan mount to blow on that ramps board just for giggles.

Ok, I can't print ABS to save my ass tonight!

I found my issue. Some how some way the filament got set to 3mm and the nozzle to .5 Dang it man!! I don't know how it happened. My boy might accidentally done it or I'll blame it on my meds I just needed to walk away from it.

For strength, I love Lexan. It drills more like wood (think hinges). But Plexiglass is really easy to find. Lexan is easy to find in thicker pieces. If you go with Plexi for the door use your soldering iron to make the holes and trim the excess off the glass with a utility knife while it is hot. Turn the heat down to just enough to go threw the Plexi. Your iron will clean up with a damp rag.

And on the fan, you can't print to many parts for your printer... :-)

 

[Sailor]

I have been running 60mm sec for printer parts in PLA, going to start increasing that to see how fast I can reliably go.

One of the nuts on my Z axis will drop out of that printed guide if I raise the carriage too fast. Any ideas on how to lock it in? Thats a crappy design also. It should have been an insert on the side with a smaller hole through for the rods.

Good tips on plexi thanks.

 

[Sylvain]

Where's my printed Glock Larry???

 

[1911ly]

I have been running 60mm sec for printer parts in PLA, going to start increasing that to see how fast I can reliably go.

One of the nuts on my Z axis will drop out of that printed guide if I raise the carriage too fast. Any ideas on how to lock it in? Thats a crappy design also. It should have been an insert on the side with a smaller hole through for the rods.

Good tips on plexi thanks.

There is a great ideal for the Z axis nuts. I am changing my i3v and Harry's Pegasus and building the homebrew this way:

Makerfarm I3v ACME Lead Screw Upgrade by M8ker - Thingiverse

You will need these X2: 8mm T8x2 Lead Screw Trapezoidal ACME w/ Anti-Backlash Nut kit 140 200 300 400 | eBay

And this: Aluminum Flexible Shaft Coupler 5 8 mm For CNC Reprap Prusa i3 3D printer etc

The Pegasus might require a different top bracket, maybe thicker. Or make a spacer. The mod is for the I3v and they want you to replace the bottom motor bracket with a slotted one. So you can align the rod parallel with the Z axis track. I don't think they make a slotted bracket for the Z axis on the Pegasus. Spacing or shimming should work fine on it. I will post when I do it. I ordered the stuff a few days ago.