The CZickness IV

[churchmouse]

Been so deep into things mechanical (bikes/boats/cars) I never thought I would see the day when I did not have something in "Process" in my shop.

 

[KJQ6945]

 

[KJQ6945]

 

[churchmouse]

Ouch....stop.....please.....ouch......stop......please

 

[IndyGlockMan]

1969

This is as it looked this morning, all the 'cut in' paint work was done a couple months ago.

Is that an original F6 (or special order code 99) Bright Green Metallic??
1 year only color for 1969 and I love it. Very sweet!

Is that a Road Runner or a GTX??

I'm a Mopar nut, so if you need help decoding any numbers on the car I have the little white books and would be happy to help.

Why are the outsides of the inner fenders black?
they should be painted, unless you are going for a extra durable/sound proofed/pro-touring kind of thing, then that makes sense.

 

[88E30M50]

Hey IGM, I know where there's a Dodge Challenger T/A sitting partially restored in a garage. It's out in CA and has zero rust and is numbers matching. It's been sitting there for 30 years and I've been trying to buy it for 15 of those. The owner is my sister and I've come to the conclusion that she won't sell to a family member. Someone outside of the family might have a shot though.

 

[RustyHornet]

Is that an original F6 (or special order code 99) Bright Green Metallic??
1 year only color for 1969 and I love it. Very sweet!

Is that a Road Runner or a GTX??

I'm a Mopar nut, so if you need help decoding any numbers on the car I have the little white books and would be happy to help.

Why are the outsides of the inner fenders black?
they should be painted, unless you are going for a extra durable/sound proofed/pro-touring kind of thing, then that makes sense.

Roadrunner. Color is Rallye Green Metallic, code 97 or 99 I don't remember which now but they changed the code number midpoint in '69. The bright green you speak of is slightly lighter with more of a yellow tint. Unfortunately this car has had a rough life and the original owner has no idea where the fender tag is, we have the build sheet which I pulled out from under the rear seat. He had the option of painting the inner fender and underside of the car body color like the factory did or black undercoat. Since the numbers matching engine and trans are no longer with it, original 383 car now 440, and he wants to drive the car he chose the undercoat route.

This car was the start of a new process for us. It was sent to Ohio for a non acidic chemical dip to remove all the paint and rust. Brought it back and replaced the floors, trunk floor, front inners, rear inner and outers, the 1/4's were replaced with OEM back in the late 70's and were only brazed on, so we were able to pull them off and reuse them. Then I took it up to Elkart for a dip in E-coat just like all the new production cars. After we get done rustproofing it, it will last generations. For being a Mopar that spent it's life in Ohio and New Jersey, it was really solid. The floors were only replaced because at some point it was made into a pro street car and they had drilled so many holes in them for seat, shifters, cage.. No rot whatsoever on the frame rails which is extremely rare on these.

 

[wtburnette]

 

[88E30M50]

Wow, Rusty! That sounds like it's being done right. What's the cost of the chem dip and E-coat run for a stripped chassis? I'd love to go full tilt on the '68, but don't have much room to work before becoming upside down on the value of the car. These old Fiats can be bought cheap and, while the prices are rising, the stay relatively cheap when done. The best of the non-concours restos are fetching upper teens to low twenties right now.

 

[88E30M50]

Morning Tom!

 

[wtburnette]

Morning Tom!

Morning Tim. One more day till range day...

 

[RustyHornet]

Wow, Rusty! That sounds like it's being done right. What's the cost of the chem dip and E-coat run for a stripped chassis? I'd love to go full tilt on the '68, but don't have much room to work before becoming upside down on the value of the car. These old Fiats can be bought cheap and, while the prices are rising, the stay relatively cheap when done. The best of the non-concours restos are fetching upper teens to low twenties right now.

The dip strip of the body was $2,200. To compare it would have been $1,800 to have it blasted and blasting only gets to the places the guy can reach. The downside to dipping it, you are almost required to e-coat after unless you want to spend hours working with a wand on a spray gun to coat inside the rockers and frame rails. The e-coat dip was $1,200. We only had the body done this way because the bolt on parts didn't require it as they were pretty rust free and what rust was there was cut out and replaced.


Morning to the are risers!

 

[88E30M50]

As much as I'd love to go that route with the '68, it would cost half the value of the car when done.

 

[RustyHornet]

As much as I'd love to go that route with the '68, it would cost half the value of the car when done.

Yes.... It's not for every car. This one being a Roadrunner, rare color and original owner, it's never leaving the family. He's actually doing it because his daughter wanted him to.

 

[churchmouse]

Just rolled back in from Liberty. What a nasty drive.

 

[Birds Away]

 

[churchmouse]

Stopped on the way in and swapped out a recently built AR for a Springer Champion.
I traded the one I has for a CZ that my spouse really liked.....The Wizard is an enabler as is BA.....I hate them both....

 

[88E30M50]

Just rolled back in from Liberty. What a nasty drive.

It is miserable out there this evening. Glad the trip went well.

 

[IndyGlockMan]

Those Springer Champions are nice.
I went to the gun show in Anderson today.
Not a bad little show. Good crowd
I got a 8lb jug of Titegroup powder for $155

 

[rugertoter]

Evening folks. What a wonderfully craptastic day at work it was. Time for adult beverages.

Sounds like we work at the same place.