My AR SBR Build-in-Progress

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  • esrice

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    Ok so here is what I decided.

    09.jpg


    Here was my thinking:

    A. If this mount works, I can continue to use my PT2L (or PT1L). This is much less expensive than having to buy a Scout Light or Surefire VTAC-L4. It is also much slimmer and lower profile than the VTAC mount that isn't currently working.

    B. If the mount doesn't work with the PT2L, then I could upgrade the light to the VTAC-L4 as the next step, which WILL work with this mount.

    C. If I one day decide to go all-out and upgrade to the Scout light, I can still use this mount for that as well, as it includes places to bolt the Scout directly to.

    Cost of the light direct from HSP was $76.25 with shipping.

    Review to come!
     

    esrice

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    what is the point of an SBR if you are extending the overall length by pushing the light out farther?

    Keep in mind that "farther out" equates to less than 1/2". The light lens either needs to be just beyond the muzzle blast, or behind it. This mount should allow me to try both ways more effectively. I couldn't do this with the VTAC mount because of its physical size and position.
     

    jblomenberg16

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    Ok so here is what I decided.

    09.jpg


    Here was my thinking:

    A. If this mount works, I can continue to use my PT2L (or PT1L). This is much less expensive than having to buy a Scout Light or Surefire VTAC-L4. It is also much slimmer and lower profile than the VTAC mount that isn't currently working.

    B. If the mount doesn't work with the PT2L, then I could upgrade the light to the VTAC-L4 as the next step, which WILL work with this mount.

    C. If I one day decide to go all-out and upgrade to the Scout light, I can still use this mount for that as well, as it includes places to bolt the Scout directly to.

    Cost of the light direct from HSP was $76.25 with shipping.

    Review to come!

    Looks good. I have a Haley Strategic mount on my 16" AR for my Streamlight PolyTac. Seems to be a good mount.
     

    HICKMAN

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    Keep in mind that "farther out" equates to less than 1/2". The light lens either needs to be just beyond the muzzle blast, or behind it. This mount should allow me to try both ways more effectively. I couldn't do this with the VTAC mount because of its physical size and position.

    Gotcha.

    Would a little light like the TRL-3 work?
     

    esrice

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    Would a little light like the TRL-3 work?

    While I believe it would function, the problem is in switchology, position, and light activation. I like offset mounts that put the switch in the 11 o'clock position. A pistol light like the TLR-3 would have to be positioned at 9 o'clock or 6 o'clock. This adds considerable width to the gun also.
     

    mammynun

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    Ok so here is what I decided.

    Here was my thinking:

    A. If this mount works, I can continue to use my PT2L (or PT1L). This is much less expensive than having to buy a Scout Light or Surefire VTAC-L4. It is also much slimmer and lower profile than the VTAC mount that isn't currently working.

    B. If the mount doesn't work with the PT2L, then I could upgrade the light to the VTAC-L4 as the next step, which WILL work with this mount.

    C. If I one day decide to go all-out and upgrade to the Scout light, I can still use this mount for that as well, as it includes places to bolt the Scout directly to.

    Cost of the light direct from HSP was $76.25 with shipping.

    Review to come!

    Just remember that, if you go to a Scout, the only fore/aft adjustment will be via moving the mount on the rail. Probably not a big deal, or maybe it would be. :dunno:

    I may get one for my Draco/AK; they look perfect for them.
     

    esrice

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    Just remember that, if you go to a Scout, the only fore/aft adjustment will be via moving the mount on the rail. Probably not a big deal, or maybe it would be. :dunno:

    The profile is so streamlined that I don't think it would be a problem with the Scout, even if I had to move it rearward a bit to keep the light from sticking out too much. This could also change if I went MiniScout.

    In my context I think the Thorntail SBR is the most versatile overall.
     

    Jtgarner

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    Thanks to these posts, I am now looking at the Vtac Mini L4 for my Draco now. Seems like a good deal for a weapon mounted light that won't completely break the bank
     

    esrice

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    Got my Thorntail SBR mount today! 4 days shop-to-house isn't bad.

    First impression are quite favorable.

    Prior to purchase I had three issues that I was unsure about.

    1. By extending the light so far forward, I wondered how stable the mount would be. I wondered if hitting the light toward the end would put lots of pressure on the mount itself, causing failure.

    2. Being made from metal (rather than plastic, like my VTAC mount), I wondered how much heavier it would be. Especially since the mount sits so far out on the end of the gun.

    3. I wasn't sure if a Streamlight PT-series light would fit the .830" ring.

    After receiving and installing the mount today, I know that my worries were mostly unfounded.

    1. The mount is SOLID. The included hardware is very heavy duty, and everything locks up very tight. I tried squeezing the end of the light and the end of my BattleComp together and they wouldn't budge.

    2. The mount is aluminum and surprisingly lightweight. I don't have a scale, but holding the Thorntail in one hand an my VTAC in the other, they certainly "feel" very similar in weight. The Thorntail feeling perhaps just a bit lighter. According to the Thorntail's packaging, it weighs 1.48ozs. After a quick Google search I found the VTAC to weigh 1.7ozs. Hmm.....

    3. I picked the .830" ring size (the smallest available) because its said to fit Surefire Executive series lights. I know the Streamlight PT1L and 2L that I have are very similar in size to the Executive lights. When I first tried the PT1L the ring did NOT fit. The center portion of the light was too small, while the parts near the head and tail were too big. It amazed me at just how much difference a slight diameter change made. So I got out some trusty black electrical tape and wrapped the body a couple of times. Viola! I'm normally not a fan of such "rigging", but with the Thorntail being a single-ring configuration, it hides the tape perfectly. And just those two pieces of tape were enough that the light locked into the mount quite solidly. There is no wiggle room.

    Installation was very straightforward, and only took a few minutes to figure out. So far I've mounted the PT1L (shorter than the PT2L). The mount positions the light lens just in front of the BattleComp where I wanted it. However the entire unit is pretty far forward, and will require that I adjust my VFG a bit to accommodate. If I keep this configuration I might add a handstop to the bottom rail, as it starts to put my hand pretty far forward. I might also try mounting the PT2L and then moving the entire mount rearward, again putting the light lens just in front of the BattleComp. I suppose I'll try it both ways. At any rate, the mount itself is very low profile and I think it will serve my SBR very well.

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    This mount positions the light further away from the rail than the VTAC. While I prefer the light to be as close to the bore as possible, I do like that it doesn't crowd my front sight like the VTAC did.

    3149cv6.jpg
     

    mammynun

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    I've found that the Dropwing/Troy sight combo gives me a fantastic place to index my left thumb... looks like that might work with the Thorntail too.
     

    esrice

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    Ok so I had a chance to do some low-light/night shooting with the new mount. I learned a few things.

    1. I do need the activation tailcap to be further rearward. Right now its too far forward and I feel like my hand is too close to the muzzle (especially with the BattleComp). There were times when activation was somewhat tricky, as I didn't feel like I had a solid interface.

    2. The light lens is at the perfect position, just forward of the muzzle. I ran some dirty .22 and later some 5.56 and the lens remained clean and I could always see the light clearly.

    3. If I move the unit rearward, the light lens will again be in the "no-go" zone. So now I need to decide if I want to install the longer PT2L, or move the PT1L even further back behind the muzzle.

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    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzHDa-wFJFA[/ame]

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kO3W9qP1NYg[/ame]

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQQ-Pdq9Ijo[/ame]

    5642d78a.jpg


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    mammynun

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    Feeling (too much) heat from the BC? Easy fix; get a suppressor!

    Looking at your pics when you had the VLTOR mounted it appears that both tail caps were farther to the rear... could you move your VFG 2 notches forward to get the same relationship? Or would that cause your hand to get a little too toasty?


    If you use the PT2L will it interfere with manipulating your front sight? Not that you'll ever need BUIS's with an Aimpoint (couldn't resist). Maybe decrease your sight radius a couple of slots?

    Thorntail top mounted (with PT2L) behind the BUIS would probably put the clicky too far back.... :dunno:

    The only thing I know is that you'll have fun figuring it out!

    BTW, just as I started the first video, the cat knocked over a glass of water... of course I forgot that I'd started the video... I got a little adrenaline dump when I heard someone rattling off a .22 outside my window. :ugh: :facepalm:
     

    esrice

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    could you move your VFG 2 notches forward to get the same relationship? Or would that cause your hand to get a little too toasty?

    Yes I could do that, but I don't like my hand that far forward. Not just from a heat standpoint, but it just felt a bit too "exposed" to the front of the muzzle.

    If you use the PT2L will it interfere with manipulating your front sight?

    My VTAC put the light right next to the unlocking button on the front sight. It never bothered me, however, because I'll never be in a rush to put my front sight down, and all it took was for me to slide my knife blade beside it and push it in. But with the Thorntail, it puts the light further away from the bore, so even if its right next to the button, I think I'd still have just enough room to unlock the front sight.

    Thorntail top mounted (with PT2L) behind the BUIS would probably put the clicky too far back.... :dunno:

    I think so too.

    The only thing I know is that you'll have fun figuring it out!

    Yessir-- this is half the fun. :yesway:

    BTW, just as I started the first video, the cat knocked over a glass of water... of course I forgot that I'd started the video... I got a little adrenaline dump when I heard someone rattling off a .22 outside my window. :ugh: :facepalm:

    Umm.... oops? :laugh:
     

    OEF5

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    Ok Evan I got a silly question!

    Is that light body made of plastic? If so are you not concerned with the possibility of the muzzle blast melting/deforming the light body?
     
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