Gunsmithing: Building a black powder Cannon

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  • IndyGunworks

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    The trunnions will not have to be lubed. They will be held in place by dropping into the metal "pockets" that you can see in the pictures which will be welded to metal strapping lining most of the edges of the cheeks. There will also be another "cap" identical to the pocket w/ ears welded on that will use upside down U's and wedge pins to hold the caps on.
     

    IndyGunworks

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    Thought I was going to have to start working in implements since there isn't much left on the cairrage to do until I get some metal and go to the welders, but UPS showed up and I got the elevating rod installed. Pictures are w/ the barrel fully lowered against the front transom, then the second picture about where I plan on firing it. When I screw it ALL the way down to get the maximum elevation from the barrel it starts to hit a spot on the cascabel where it may bind up just a bit depending on how I fabricate the U. I am not to concerned w/ this since I don't plan on firing at much distance over 50 yards or so.



    I will fabricate some sort of metal for the round nut to rest on so it doesn't tear up the wood, and the round nut will have small "handles" welded on or soldered into drilled holes.
    Anybody got any leads to fancy looking "handles" that I could purchase instead of trying to design them myself?
     

    1911ly

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    I over looked this update :-(

    Nice! I think that will work great and for sure looks awesome! Are you going to leave the handles chromed or are you going to paint them? I think it would look better without the bling. Just curious. Keep up the good work and the up dates!
     

    IndyGunworks

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    They will definitely be painted to match the rest of the metal work. Probably a flat black, the cannon barrel will be gloss, or semi gloss to make it stand out as the central point of the cannon. Carriage will probably be painted grey.
     

    1911ly

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    Personally I am rather fond of BLO or any wood stain over paint. You can always keep up the finish with another rub down.
     

    IndyGunworks

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    You have spoken, so you have received. BLO it is. I also like the idea of being able to "top off" the finish. and if I decide to reprofile the bottom to a rounded end instead of square I don't have to worry about blending stain.

    For what its worth Rust-Oleum painters touch paint goes on incredibly well. Nice and thick, but even. The worm was painted with two coats of primer, and 6 coats of flat black.




    also picked up some wool at Joan's fabric to get started on the sponge, and the rammer.
     

    tackleberry65

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    Someone asked early on in this thread where you got the gun tube. I'm wondering the same thing. I don't recall ever seeing a bare one like yours was for sale anywhere.
     

    IndyGunworks

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    I got the tube from Hern Iron works based out of Idaho. I went with them because they are the cheapest option. If I had to do it all over again, I would have spent more money and gotten the three pounder from loyalist arms out of Canada. The hern tube is ROUGH. By the time its all said and done I will probably have around 10 hours of grinding on the tube because of how rough the casting is. the bore is off center slightly and they offered to replace it, but I opted for a 400 dollar refund instead as I don't plan on shooting much live ammo, and if I do it will be short range. I initially paid 1200 delivered for it but after the refund I have 800 bucks in the barrel.
     

    IndyGunworks

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    Bittersweet day, cannon is gone. Its at the welders who I thought would be done in a week, but they have some other stuff going on and said it might be 3 weeks. Should cost me between 500, and 750 bucks to get most of my metal work done. Still have to drill the flash hole. I have some pictures that I took on the actual camera and not on the phone that I have not uploaded... ill try and get them up soon.
     
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