Gunsmithing: Building a black powder Cannon

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  • IndyGunworks

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    Feb 22, 2009
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    That's looking really cool.

    One thing I've wondered though...the half-round bearings or whatever the correct name is, where the cannon rests on the carriage--is that enough to retain the cannon in place? Or is there a top part to keep it retained?

    The cannon will be held on with capsquares. they are caps with ears on them that have bolts that go all the way through the trails and out the bottom of the axle strap that tie everything together very strongly.
     

    85t5mcss

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    Looking good, Nick. Keep us posted but looks like quite a bit of headway has been made. Don't worry about that other hole. Once you have it filled and covered it won't matter. This is a one-off, and it has to be designed/engineered as you go. Looks good, can't wait I see the vid of you shooting it.
     

    TJ Kackowski

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    Jun 8, 2012
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    Looking good, Nick. Keep us posted but looks like quite a bit of headway has been made. Don't worry about that other hole. Once you have it filled and covered it won't matter. This is a one-off, and it has to be designed/engineered as you go. Looks good, can't wait I see the vid of you shooting it.

    Back up the bus! One-off ?!? ... I though this was a prototype and that IndyGunworks was going to start into production when this was done ... dang it, now I'll have to spend my money on something else.

    Seriously, this has been an incredibly cool thread to watch. When the cannon is complete is there going to be a public demonstration for the INGO community? A meet and shoot with cannon and other black powder firearms sounds simply awesome!
     

    1911ly

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    Back up the bus! One-off ?!? ... I though this was a prototype and that IndyGunworks was going to start into production when this was done ... dang it, now I'll have to spend my money on something else.

    Seriously, this has been an incredibly cool thread to watch. When the cannon is complete is there going to be a public demonstration for the INGO community? A meet and shoot with cannon and other black powder firearms sounds simply awesome!

    That sounds like a plan to me. ;)
     

    IndyGunworks

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    All the gaps on the top are filled and the holes for the keybolt, and hingbolt are done.



    While drilling the holes for the lag bolts on the bottom of the bottom metal I had a drill bit literally explode on me. It made a really high pitched "ping" sound and I found all but about an inch of the drill bit, still don't know where the other piece is.



    When I say fill in the gaps, I am referring to gaps like these that I don't want to show once its painted.



    This is what I am using to fill in the gaps its super strong and works great. I am using cooking spray and clear shoe polish as the release agent



    Last of the gaps that need fillin are filled in this picture



    Now onto installing the handles on the elevation screw nut.
    I printed a template off the internet and used it to mark the 5 handle locations. I wanted the handles off center so I put them .400 below the top of the nut.
    The template



    Tapping the holes... I did break the tip of a tap off (well someone else did but I wont point fingers) was lucky though and was able to knock it out and retap the messed up portion of that hole.



    Degreased and red locktited the handles into place



    and put it on the carriage to see what it would look like.... looks pretty good if you ask me, what do you guys think?

     

    IndyGunworks

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    she is loaded onto the trailer to be taken back to the welders this afternoon. keeping my fingers crossed for a Christmastime test fire, but I have my doubts.
     

    IndyGunworks

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    Started working on one of my implements last night. I enlisted the help of Tophat45, and appreciate the help very much, and the company. He is one of the few people in this world I would consider a true friend.
    This linstock is being made out of 100 percent scrap provided by Darrel. Lucky for me, he has as hard of a time throwing things away as I do.

    Started with a piece of steel pipe with an OD pretty darn close to the OD of the oak dowel. I wish this metal were a little bit thicker but I will be able to work with it. I am planning on using friction primers for the most part but I still want the ability to light it off in the period correct mannor.



    I cut a couple of groves in it for the rod to stick in. I will weld the rod to the inside, peen the top edges over, well them, and grind and weld the rest to make it look as good as I can.



    Piece of 3/8th rod laying around seems like it will work well. the price is right



    Heated the ends up and curled them over



    Straightened them up a bit to make them match



    Upside down here, but you get the idea. Marking the centerline in this picture



    A little help holding it to see how things are progressing



    Pretty close



    Couple more tweaks



    An idea on where the welding will be done



    And as close to a finished product as I have right now.

     

    IndyGunworks

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    Cannon is still gone for the moment, so I took an educated guess as to the diameter of the rammer head, if its off it wont hurt my feelings to redo it, as this is the first time I have ran a wood lathe. I inherited it from my grandfather and it took me a couple hours to clean it up.


    Started with an old piece of recycled oak.



    Chucked it up in the lathe



    Turned it until I ended up with this



    I thought I would be able to use the correct size spade bit and a drill chuck which I had ordered online just for this. I was wrong, spade bits and a lathe do not go well together, unless I was doing something wrong. Had a few close calls. Since that didn't work I used a 1 morse taper drill bit 1/2 inch diameter to drill a starter hole, than used a 1 inch silver and demming drill bit to open it up. (I have no idea what a silver and demming drill bit is, but that's the largest bit I have). My oak dowels are 1 1/4 so I used a dremel to open the hole up to make the dowel fit. I think it looks pretty good. Its a bit of rough finish to the wood because I didn't switch to a finer cutting tool soon enough, but I think it will give it a rougher look once painted and I sort of like it. that's IF its the right size and I don't have to remake one when I get the cannon back.



    cut the extra off and I think the proportions ended up pretty spot on. Going to epoxy this on, linseed oil the whole thing and paint it. I think I am going to paint the head of the rammer black and the handle grey to match the carriage. Unless anyone thinks it should ALL be the british blue grey color?



    sorry for the bad pics... I didn't realize how it was until I uploaded the photo, once its painted I will have a few better pictures.
     

    IndyGunworks

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    they are super aggressive in wood, and have some serious PULL when you are trying to use them. Glad I got them, wish I would have realized a long time ago they can be used on metal as I had a few other things I would have used them for.
     

    IndyGunworks

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    Finally got it back. Here are some updates of the hardware to hold the capsquares and axle straps on. Also, i found some small bud light cans that will work with this bore size... way better fit than tomatoe past cans and ALOT cheaper.









     
    Last edited:

    IndyGunworks

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    One more update. Got the key bolts cut down to size. i will be using 3/8th thick material for the keys and they will be around 1 inch tall where they wedge themselves into the key bolt.

    All of the pictures i have saved for reference either has two key bolts and one hinge bolt, or the key bolt at the front. Given the little amount of space i have on the front of my cheeks i decided to put the keybolt in the rear to help spread out the "clutter" and to not make the front so busy. It might make mounting the cannon a bit more difficult but i dont anticipate any major issues with doing it this way.



     
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