Fish tank gurus

[varadatt]

Also should add, I didn't know goldfish will eat other dead goldfish...nothing like walking into petsmart and seeing goldfish skeletons laying about.

Most fish will eat others, even parents will eat their young depending on the species. This is part of the reason you keep the same temperament of fish together.

 

[Brandon]

I use to work at Petsmart back in the late 90's I can tell you back in the day they did not change the filters every 12 hours. I was never present for any filter change/cleaning. I did have to fill them regularly though to keep enough water in the tanks.

 

[Caleb]

so...should I do a water change to bring down ammonia or leave it for tank to cycle?

 

[IndyBeerman]

I'd do a 25% change, make sure temp is correct when changing, take the old filter media and the charcoal and wrap it in something like a fine nylon netting so you can use the bacteria from it to help put.

Do not over feed, over feeding is a big cause of ammonia spikes, and check for dead fish, hidden dead fish can also levels to go up.

I can't remember but I used to have a bottle of bacteria that I added to the tank after water changes.

Ahhh, here's two items I remember putting in the tank when I did water changes to help the tank and fish ( I had to search through pages to try and remember, memory fade).

API Stress Coat Aquarium Water Conditioner - Water Conditioner from petco.com

API Stress Zyme at PETCO

Stress Zyme is loaded with bacteria to help out new tanks and on water changes.

 

[bobbittle]

so...should I do a water change to bring down ammonia or leave it for tank to cycle?

How high is it? If you still just have the betta I'd probably leave it. Since they're an air breather they can tolerate dirtier water than other fish.

 

[Caleb]

I'd do a 25% change, make sure temp is correct when changing, take the old filter media and the charcoal and wrap it in something like a fine nylon netting so you can use the bacteria from it to help put.

Do not over feed, over feeding is a big cause of ammonia spikes, and check for dead fish, hidden dead fish can also levels to go up.

I can't remember but I used to have a bottle of bacteria that I added to the tank after water changes.

Ahhh, here's two items I remember putting in the tank when I did water changes to help the tank and fish ( I had to search through pages to try and remember, memory fade).

API Stress Coat Aquarium Water Conditioner - Water Conditioner from petco.com

API Stress Zyme at PETCO

Stress Zyme is loaded with bacteria to help out new tanks and on water changes.

I do use stress coat+

How high is it? If you still just have the betta I'd probably leave it. Since they're an air breather they can tolerate dirtier water than other fish.

He's still alive so far...so don't change it? I really don't how high it is, just between "stress" and "caution"...

 

[bobbittle]

I do use stress coat+



He's still alive so far...so don't change it? I really don't how high it is, just between "stress" and "caution"...

If you're worried about him, do a small change or two. It won't set your cycle back too badly and will help ease your mind.

Most likely he'll be fine though.

 

[Caleb]

Ok...I'll leave the tank alone. Just an off topic question...after this cycle is complete, how likely would I have to re-cycle when upgrading to a 50+ gallon tank?

 

[bobbittle]

If you reused everything from your current tank you'd still have a cycle, it would just be a little shorter and a bit less severe than normal.

Or you could just go with an entirely new tank, thus starting fish tank owner syndrome.

 

[Caleb]

If you reused everything from your current tank you'd still have a cycle, it would just be a little shorter and a bit less severe than normal.

Or you could just go with an entirely new tank, thus starting fish tank owner syndrome.

I was thinking of keeping this 10 gallon setup going, and let the 50+ gallon cycle with no fish in it. Maybe use bacteria starter/enhancer to speed the cycle up since I won't have to worry about fish health in the 50+ gallon tank.

I did see a topfin 70 gallon tank at pet smart for $250, is that a good price or should I look into a better brand of tank?

 

[tatic05]

I was thinking of keeping this 10 gallon setup going, and let the 50+ gallon cycle with no fish in it. Maybe use bacteria starter/enhancer to speed the cycle up since I won't have to worry about fish health in the 50+ gallon tank.

I did see a topfin 70 gallon tank at pet smart for $250, is that a good price or should I look into a better brand of tank?

When I started my 60g salt, I used a product called start smart and I had fish in later that day. I never had any spikes or crazy blooms. Maybe it could help you out.

 

[bobbittle]

I was thinking of keeping this 10 gallon setup going, and let the 50+ gallon cycle with no fish in it. Maybe use bacteria starter/enhancer to speed the cycle up since I won't have to worry about fish health in the 50+ gallon tank.

I did see a topfin 70 gallon tank at pet smart for $250, is that a good price or should I look into a better brand of tank?

I wouldn't use a Top Fin aquarium if you paid for it and gave it to me.

I only use(used I guess, nothing set up currently) Aqueon (formerly All Glass). Many like Perfecto as well, as they are (or used to be) made in Indiana.

Fishless cycling is fairly straight forward, a google search can find you the steps needed. There is also a bacteria product made by Marineland (I think) that can instantly cycle your tank. It's called Bio-Spira. You would need to add it and then within 24 hours put a hefty amount of fish in the tank all at once, otherwise the bacteria die off and you wasted your money.

 

[Caleb]

When I started my 60g salt, I used a product called start smart and I had fish in later that day. I never had any spikes or crazy blooms. Maybe it could help you out.

That makes me wonder, how much more expensive does a 70 gal salt tank cost to set up and maintain over freshwater?

 

[varadatt]

I was thinking of keeping this 10 gallon setup going, and let the 50+ gallon cycle with no fish in it. Maybe use bacteria starter/enhancer to speed the cycle up since I won't have to worry about fish health in the 50+ gallon tank.

If you start a 50gl tank use some of the water from the 10 to start it. It is a lot quicker to cycle a tank with fish in it. Just buy some of those ones you see that they have 3 for a dollar or so. They will get you going quicker and then you can either keep them or toss them on the 10gl and buy new guys for the big tank.

 

[bobbittle]

That makes me wonder, how much more expensive does a 70 gal salt tank cost to set up and maintain over freshwater?

Depends on what your "end goal" for the salt tank is. Fish only? Fish only with live rock? Reef/Coral?

A lot more planning comes into play here. Many, many salt fish don't get along with each other, or with your inverts, or with your coral.

Coral requires upgraded lighting, most likely a protein skimmer, perhaps a refugium, etc.

You also can't have anywhere near as many fish in salt as fresh. Where in fresh the general rule is 1" of fish per gallon, salt is 1" of fish per 5 gallons.

If you start a 50gl tank use some of the water from the 10 to start it. It is a lot quicker to cycle a tank with fish in it. Just buy some of those ones you see that they have 3 for a dollar or so. They will get you going quicker and then you can either keep them or toss them on the 10gl and buy new guys for the big tank.

Tank water contains almost none of the beneficial bacteria found in a fish tank. Better choices would be filter media or gravel.

 

[bobbittle]

If you start a 50gl tank use some of the water from the 10 to start it. It is a lot quicker to cycle a tank with fish in it. Just buy some of those ones you see that they have 3 for a dollar or so. They will get you going quicker and then you can either keep them or toss them on the 10gl and buy new guys for the big tank.

Oh and using feeder fish to cycle a tank isn't the greatest idea, unless you want to risk exposing your "regular" fish to diseases and parasites.

 

[tatic05]

That makes me wonder, how much more expensive does a 70 gal salt tank cost to set up and maintain over freshwater?

I had close to 2 grand in setup. Tank, stand, live rock, wet/dry filter, protein skimmer, t4 lighting, powerheads. Then the fish and the cleaners. I did not do to many fresh tanks but the fish for salt are also more expensive. A decent sized yellow tang can rin 40 bucks roughly. I have seen fish at my LFS goin for well over 100.

There is a lot that goes into a salt Tank. Fish only, fish with live rock, fish and coral. Then depending on what route you take will change the kind of fish that will flourish in that tank.

Once I have the money and mainly space my 60g would become a refugium. Might be a little overkill but it wouldn't hurt.

 

[bobbittle]

If you decide to go salt, look for longer & wider tanks vs deeper. Take a 40/50 breeder over a standard 55.

And if you really, really want to go salt, head to craigslist. When I took down my last salt tank I got less than 50% of what I had in it. Bargains can be found easily.

 

[Caleb]

I wouldn't use a Top Fin aquarium if you paid for it and gave it to me.

I only use(used I guess, nothing set up currently) Aqueon (formerly All Glass). Many like Perfecto as well, as they are (or used to be) made in Indiana.

where is the best place to buy these tanks?

 

[Caleb]

Fishless cycling is fairly straight forward, a google search can find you the steps needed. There is also a bacteria product made by Marineland (I think) that can instantly cycle your tank. It's called Bio-Spira. You would need to add it and then within 24 hours put a hefty amount of fish in the tank all at once, otherwise the bacteria die off and you wasted your money.

I'll keep this in mind...I can see doing this for a 50+ gallon tank.


I was also curious....for those people with salt tanks, your tanks has some really good color to the light, can you get that kind of color bulb or led for freshwater fishes? The plain white is a bit...dull? No vibrant colors at all.