Any Jeepers in here?

[Jackson]

Have you guys done a regear yourself?

I have participated in a few, but didn't do all the work. I usually let my dad handle the gear work but we've done gears or lockers on three or four CJ's in his garage. I am planning to do my CJ axles again as I put on new tires. I just need to get in the garage and do it.

I wouldn't hesitate to do it. I should note that my jeep is not a daily driver. so there is that.

 

[Jackson]

Have you guys done a regear yourself?

You should read up on the process and watch a few videos. That will give you a good idea whether you feel comfortable with it. You'll need some info like necessary backlash measurements too. It can be tricky sometimes to get shims set up right to get the mesh and measurements you need. I'm sure guys that do it all the time have no trouble but I'm not that guy.

You'll need a dial indicator and possibly an inch-pound torque wrench. Which axles do you have?

 

[eldirector]

I dropped new gears in the old Dana 44 when I destroyed the first set. I'm in the process of building up a new Dana 60, including gears and locker, right now. Didn't need to regear the 14 bolt, but did have it apart to install a mini spool.

It really isn't all that hard. Takes a few specialized tools (dial indicator, inch and foot-pound torque wrenches, caliper to measure the shims, and a case spreader is super handy), lots of time, and lots of patience. Even MORE patience if the axle is still in the vehicle (I hate working upside down).

Then again, paying for it isn't all that bad, either. Figure $150 per axle in labor, another $150 per axle for gears, and then about $120 per for the install kits. So, $850-ish vs. $550-ish if you "do it yourself".

 

[Jackson]

I dropped new gears in the old Dana 44 when I destroyed the first set. I'm in the process of building up a new Dana 60, including gears and locker, right now. Didn't need to regear the 14 bolt, but did have it apart to install a mini spool.

It really isn't all that hard. Takes a few specialized tools (dial indicator, inch and foot-pound torque wrenches, caliper to measure the shims, and a case spreader is super handy), lots of time, and lots of patience. Even MORE patience if the axle is still in the vehicle (I hate working upside down).

Then again, paying for it isn't all that bad, either. Figure $150 per axle in labor, another $150 per axle for gears, and then about $120 per for the install kits. So, $850-ish vs. $550-ish if you "do it yourself".

Is $150/axle a reasonable estimate for setup cost?

If that's the case, forget it and just roll it down to the shop.

 

[eldirector]

Is $150/axle a reasonable estimate for setup cost?

If that's the case, forget it and just roll it down to the shop.

$3-400 in labor for both axles "on the side" by a friend of mine. No idea what shop rates are. Plus parts, of course.

 

[lovemachine]

$3-400 in labor for both axles "on the side" by a friend of mine. No idea what shop rates are. Plus parts, of course.

Hmm. I'll have to call those places you mentioned.

 

[Jackson]

Hmm. I'll have to call those places you mentioned.

So, what are you gonna put in there? ARB? Eaton Electric? Detroit in the rear? Helical gear torsen in the front? 5.13's and 37" tires?

I know you probably already told us

 

[lovemachine]

So, what are you gonna put in there? ARB? Eaton Electric? Detroit in the rear? Helical gear torsen in the front? 5.13's and 37" tires?

I know you probably already told us

My axles won't be strong enough for 37's. And I don't have the money to do anything that extreme. I'm just wanting to have a more properly set up rig. Which is why I want to regear. Being able to run 35's would be awesome. But I am happy to stick with 33's....

Lockers? Meh, I don't have money for that either, and at this point it's really not on my radar.

 

[Jackson]

My axles won't be strong enough for 37's. And I don't have the money to do anything that extreme. I'm just wanting to have a more properly set up rig. Which is why I want to regear. Being able to run 35's would be awesome. But I am happy to stick with 33's....

Lockers? Meh, I don't have money for that either, and at this point it's really not on my radar.

How often do you take it off road?

 

[lovemachine]

Not enough to need a locker.

 

[Jackson]

But its fun to have a locker.

 

[lovemachine]

Just curious. But how would a 2010 Rubicon with the 3.8 compare to a Rubicon model with the 3.6 engine?

 

[Jackson]

Just curious. But how would a 2010 Rubicon with the 3.8 compare to a Rubicon model with the 3.6 engine?

I can't afford fancy new jeeps like that. No experience with it. I would like a JKU rubicon DD though.

 

[Principal Skinr]

But its fun to have a locker.

At Moab this spring, my tires made it out essentially unscathed. I had one slight gouge in the sidewall on one. My buddy's Jeep had no lockers, so he had quite a bit more wheel spin on the same difficult climbs. His tires looked like a honey badger chewed into them in some places. They survived and still have their integrity, but basically, on the trails we did, the lockers made for no wheel spin at all, and a much more stable climb up rugged steep hills. They also made for less slipping and sliding laterally, which I'm pretty certain made for fewer scrapes and dents of the skid plates because I was able to hold specific lines on obstacles, due to the increased traction. The combo of BFG Mud Terrain KM2 tires and the lockers was a match made in Jeep heaven, from my experience.

 

[Jackson]

I think it is good to learn with open diffs. You have to think a lot more about your line to keep all your wheels on the ground and dry if possible. I believe that experience and learning to see the line in a way that you can get through open makes a better driver. That being said, lockers will definitely let you approach everything with more control. They will also let you get further and deeper in to places you'd have never been before. They let you put a fair bit more torque on components when everything is biting, too. So could possibly break stuff. Though, I think a good argument could be made that being able to approach things slower and with more control mitigates that considerably.

Lockers definitely change the vehicles capabilities though. Considering he rarely takes it off road, its probably not worth the expense. You can have just as much fun with or without them. He may just become a better, more thoughtful trail driver without them.

 

[eldirector]

Not enough to need a locker.

Uh... You mean never on purpose?

My TJ is open diffs, and has really surprised me on where it will go. With a bit more ground clearance, it could do a TON. I couple guys I wheel with are open/open with larger tires (33 or 35). They go pretty much anywhere I go on locked 37's in the CJ. Just with more wheel spin.

The problem with lockers: when you finally get stuck, you are REALLY stuck.

 

[Principal Skinr]

Uh... You mean never on purpose?

My TJ is open diffs, and has really surprised me on where it will go. With a bit more ground clearance, it could do a TON. I couple guys I wheel with are open/open with larger tires (33 or 35). They go pretty much anywhere I go on locked 37's in the CJ. Just with more wheel spin.

The problem with lockers: when you finally get stuck, you are REALLY stuck.

VERY true! My first Jeep had open diffs and it amazed me with what it could do. I added a sway bar disconnect, which helped keep wheels on the ground, and it really made a difference, too.

 

[lovemachine]

My check engine light came on last night. The code is P0153. When I google it, it's Upstream Bank 2 Sensor 1. Which I just replaced less than a month ago. Bought it from the dealership.

While I was checking under the hood, I noticed my catalytic converter was pretty loose. So, tonight, I sprayed the bolts with Kroil, and tried to tighten them. The side closest to the fan wouldn't budge. But, the side closest to the firewall I was able to tighten up a lot.

So I'm hoping it's just a small exhaust leak, and that it's fixed now. I cleared the code by removing the negative battery cable.
We'll see what happens now...

 

[Jackson]

My check engine light came on last night. The code is P0153. When I google it, it's Upstream Bank 2 Sensor 1. Which I just replaced less than a month ago. Bought it from the dealership.

While I was checking under the hood, I noticed my catalytic converter was pretty loose. So, tonight, I sprayed the bolts with Kroil, and tried to tighten them. The side closest to the fan wouldn't budge. But, the side closest to the firewall I was able to tighten up a lot.

So I'm hoping it's just a small exhaust leak, and that it's fixed now. I cleared the code by removing the negative battery cable.
We'll see what happens now...

If you decide it's just too much trouble and you want to get rid of the jeep (maybe buy that Rubicon I know you want) I'll take it off your hands for $150 bucks and two boxes of factory 9mm.

 

[lovemachine]

If you decide it's just too much trouble and you want to get rid of the jeep (maybe buy that Rubicon I know you want) I'll take it off your hands for $150 bucks and two boxes of factory 9mm.

LOL.