The CZickness XXVII: Czickos forever.

[patience0830]

There has been a steady stream of parts/pieces arriving at the mouse compound. 1 more in the mail and all of my AR upgrades will be complete.
Consistent operation through the entire fleet.

No parts for me. Truck needs shoes and I think a half shaft.

 

[mcapo]

Morning folks!

I moved the 6x24 Hawke to the Ruger scout last night. I need to find some time to dial it in now. It’s not the best solution, but hopefully, it lets me play on the 400 yard line next FGE. The Confederate now has the 4x12 and also need dialed in.

What range do you guys zero your .308s at?

I go with 100 but this chart makes an interesting argument for 200.

 

[bcannon]

Morning folks!

I moved the 6x24 Hawke to the Ruger scout last night. I need to find some time to dial it in now. It’s not the best solution, but hopefully, it lets me play on the 400 yard line next FGE. The Confederate now has the 4x12 and also need dialed in.

What range do you guys zero your .308s at?

Ive zeroed all mine in at 200. I can go to 500 on the reticles without having to touch the turrets, makes it easier for me.

Morn'n ladies and gents

 

[88E30M50]

I go with 100 but this chart makes an interesting argument for 200.

That does make 200 look like a good option

 

[mcapo]

That does make 200 look like a good option

You’ll look pretty funny on the 40 yard target with a 308 getting your initial zero. Lol

 

[bcannon]

You’ll look pretty funny on the 40 yard target with a 308 getting your initial zero. Lol

Possibly, but its fun freaking out the guys zeroing their 22s tho

 

[mcapo]

Possibly, but its fun freaking out the guys zeroing their 22s tho

88 isn’t afraid of loud brakes either.....

 

[88E30M50]

Maybe I’ll do the initial zero at 25 yards. It could give Charlie a new photo to post of some asshat shooting a 24x scoped .308 at 25 yards and consistently hitting 3/4 if an inch low.

 

[mcapo]

Maybe I’ll do the initial zero at 25 yards. It could give Charlie a new photo to post of some asshat shooting a 24x scoped .308 at 25 yards and consistently hitting 3/4 if an inch low.

A plan has been made!

 

[Leadeye]

Hoping some parts get here today, Saturday looks like an indoor work day.

 

[churchmouse]

Hoping some parts get here today, Saturday looks like an indoor work day.

It does look like a rain out here as well. We have a system install to do this weekend so it might be Sunday.

 

[rkwhyte2]

Late morning all

 

[WebSnyper]

OK. It is time to put my 10 year old laptop on the shelf to rest.
I need a new one.

You computer savvy guy's......what and where.
I do not need something that will plot a course from my house to the moon or hack the defense network to battle SkyNet. My Google-Fu is possibly 3rd grade level judging by how the terrorists run my devices so something with a decent screen and keyboard.

I'd make sure you get something with an SSD (not a spinning hard drive), and I'd go no smaller than 256 GB (if you use cloud storage, you can offload. But you might want more, like 512 if you store a lot of photos, etc directly on the machine's local drive or use an external drive for some of that stuff). I personally would not go any less than 16GB of RAM, in case you run anything besides just a browser, but even then, a lot of browser tabs can easily chew up a couple of GB of memory by themselves. That also somewhat future protects you a bit.

I bought HP laptops for both kids in the last few years as they went off to college. Each machine was 16 GB and I believe 512 GB SSD, and both were considerably less than $1k (I think both were in the mid to upper $700's before tax). My daughter got a bit large r machine with a bit larger screen as that is what she wanted, while my son got more of the Ultra Book sized machine (lighter, smaller, smaller screen).

Boil it down:

1. SSD, no smaller than 256 GB, maybe want 512 depending on your needs and how tech savvy you are regarding cloud storage, etc
2. 16 GB of RAM (more is better). You might be able to get away with 8GB, but it won't future proof you as much as even browsers can chew up a lot of memory if you have a lot of tabs going, etc.

Screen size and quality is up to your based on your needs, and pick a name brand you trust (I've had good luck with HP's, ASUS, for decent prices, been a while since I had a Dell so can't speak on that, and I have had Surface devices for work, but they are pricey).

Others may have additional specs they care about, such as regarding processor, etc.

 

[Birds Away]

There has been a steady stream of parts/pieces arriving at the mouse compound. 1 more in the mail and all of my AR upgrades will be complete.
Consistent operation through the entire fleet.

The cornerstone of my philosophy. Many guns = one gun.

 

[churchmouse]

I'd make sure you get something with an SSD (not a spinning hard drive), and I'd go no smaller than 256 GB (if you use cloud storage, you can offload. But you might want more, like 512 if you store a lot of photos, etc directly on the machine's local drive or use an external drive for some of that stuff). I personally would not go any less than 16GB of RAM, in case you run anything besides just a browser, but even then, a lot of browser tabs can easily chew up a couple of GB of memory by themselves. That also somewhat future protects you a bit.

I bought HP laptops for both kids in the last few years as they went off to college. Each machine was 16 GB and I believe 512 GB SSD, and both were considerably less than $1k (I think both were in the mid to upper $700's before tax). My daughter got a bit large r machine with a bit larger screen as that is what she wanted, while my son got more of the Ultra Book sized machine (lighter, smaller, smaller screen).

Boil it down:

1. SSD, no smaller than 256 GB, maybe want 512 depending on your needs and how tech savvy you are regarding cloud storage, etc
2. 16 GB of RAM (more is better). You might be able to get away with 8GB, but it won't future proof you as much as even browsers can chew up a lot of memory if you have a lot of tabs going, etc.

Screen size and quality is up to your based on your needs, and pick a name brand you trust (I've had good luck with HP's, ASUS, for decent prices, been a while since I had a Dell so can't speak on that, and I have had Surface devices for work, but they are pricey).

Others may have additional specs they care about, such as regarding processor, etc.

Noted.....

 

[gmcttr]

That does make 200 look like a good option

You know where a 200 yard range is that Sarah or I can take you to.

 

[88E30M50]

You know where a 200 yard range is that Sarah or I can take you to.

Yup, I’d love to join either of you there sometime in the next couple of weeks.

 

[gmcttr]

Yup, I’d love to join either of you there sometime in the next couple of weeks.

I will probably go next Friday and should be open the following week as well.

 

[MindfulMan]

It's always been my understanding that a 50 yard zero gives a 200 yard zero (although I'd imagine that 200 would be a bit more accurate if you're consistently shooting longer ranges).
That's why they call it a 50/200 yard zero, as it's often referred to in reticle manuals.

 

[T-DOGG]

It's always been my understanding that a 50 yard zero gives a 200 yard zero (although I'd imagine that 200 would be a bit more accurate if you're consistently shooting longer ranges).
That's why they call it a 50/200 yard zero, as it's often referred to in reticle manuals.

Yes, for .223/5.56. I think they were talking about a .308 though.