The CZickness V

[RustyHornet]

If the rumors are true, I've heard you only allow open carry in the basement.

Pretty much, however it cannot be holstered. Must be in hand, it doesn't matter who's hand either.

 

[RustyHornet]

Must have scared everyone off....

 

[kawtech87]

Must have scared everyone off....

Not sure if I'll be heading up that way on Sunday now or not. My fiance has half decided she doesn't want to spend 6 hours of her Sunday riding in a car.

 

[RustyHornet]

Not sure if I'll be heading up that way on Sunday now or not. My fiance has half decided she doesn't want to spend 6 hours of her Sunday riding in a car.

Fine! Be that way.... That would be a sucky way to spend a Sunday....

 

[T-DOGG]

Must have scared everyone off....

I think they're all in the corner trying to figure out who's pee it is.

 

[RustyHornet]

I think they're all in the corner trying to figure out who's pee it is.

Well you're the only animal in here right now... I told you the first time you messed on the floor you were out!

 

[craigkim]

Here is some actual CZ related discussion. So, I got my CZ project done yesterday. My mind was blown at the difficulty of installing those bushings. Add to that, I had decided to replace my CZ TS sights.

The shadow was pretty hard to remove the bushing. I talked to CGW about it and he said that they have the same problem. Basically plan on destroying the factory bushing to remove it. Once I got the factory one out, I cleaned out slide and the new one was easy enough to tap in after freezing. The shadow's bushing bottomed out and that left the groove on the top in good alignment for the roll pin under the sight. I did have to run a drill bit through to even things up. THEN, I had to fit the bushing to the barrel. Mind you, I had no idea how to do that. What I did was place the barrel and wiggle it a little where it was contacting the bushing and preventing it seating. That would leave a little mark and then I took a socket wrench of nearly identical diameter and wrapped it with 1000 grit sand paper. I worked it carefully attempting to alter ONLY the areas that the barrel was hanging up on. It took about 45 mins, but it locks up TIGHT. It looks like it would be water tight.

The TS was nearly impossible. I mean, there have been homes constructed with less hammer strokes than that project took! Once it was out, I cleaned it up and placed the new one, which bottomed out and left the groove short of where it needed to be with the sight roll pin channel. SO, it took more aggressive work with the drill bit to even up the channel for the roll pin. The TS barrel required no fitting. It has a removable lower bushing that surrounds the recoil spring and guide rod that, when removed allows the barrel to slide into and out of the bushing much closer to perpendicular to the bushing orientation than the shadow. Just like the shadow, it locks up TIGHT.

Once I thought the hard stuff was over, I removed the rear sight on the TS. I had to hammer on it like a mad man. I don't know why the hell you would make it so hard to remove? I mean, when it is in place it has an allen screw to hold it, so why fit it to the umteenth degree of tight? Fitting the new one was hell too. I got it done and it looks decent. I like the gun much better with the fiber optic front and the adjustable rear.

I can't wait to shoot these and see how accurate they are. I am going to do some shooting off of sandbag rests and make up some more match style ammo for them. Final thing I was noticing this morning is that the TS has a little play in the slide frame fit. I can rattle it if I shake it. May have always been that way...? I don't think I care either way as long as it is reasonably accurate.

All in all, I would say, if you want this done to your firearms... LET SOMEONE ELSE DO IT! CGW told me they only charge $30 to install them.

 

[bjenkins]

Yea my dealings with David at CGWs have been excellent!

 

[RustyHornet]

Darn. Won't have my K2 .45 till Tuesday...

 

[bjenkins]

Darn. Won't have my K2 .45 till Tuesday...

Does that gun get good reviews?

 

[churchmouse]

Here is some actual CZ related discussion. So, I got my CZ project done yesterday. My mind was blown at the difficulty of installing those bushings. Add to that, I had decided to replace my CZ TS sights.

The shadow was pretty hard to remove the bushing. I talked to CGW about it and he said that they have the same problem. Basically plan on destroying the factory bushing to remove it. Once I got the factory one out, I cleaned out slide and the new one was easy enough to tap in after freezing. The shadow's bushing bottomed out and that left the groove on the top in good alignment for the roll pin under the sight. I did have to run a drill bit through to even things up. THEN, I had to fit the bushing to the barrel. Mind you, I had no idea how to do that. What I did was place the barrel and wiggle it a little where it was contacting the bushing and preventing it seating. That would leave a little mark and then I took a socket wrench of nearly identical diameter and wrapped it with 1000 grit sand paper. I worked it carefully attempting to alter ONLY the areas that the barrel was hanging up on. It took about 45 mins, but it locks up TIGHT. It looks like it would be water tight.

The TS was nearly impossible. I mean, there have been homes constructed with less hammer strokes than that project took! Once it was out, I cleaned it up and placed the new one, which bottomed out and left the groove short of where it needed to be with the sight roll pin channel. SO, it took more aggressive work with the drill bit to even up the channel for the roll pin. The TS barrel required no fitting. It has a removable lower bushing that surrounds the recoil spring and guide rod that, when removed allows the barrel to slide into and out of the bushing much closer to perpendicular to the bushing orientation than the shadow. Just like the shadow, it locks up TIGHT.

Once I thought the hard stuff was over, I removed the rear sight on the TS. I had to hammer on it like a mad man. I don't know why the hell you would make it so hard to remove? I mean, when it is in place it has an allen screw to hold it, so why fit it to the umteenth degree of tight? Fitting the new one was hell too. I got it done and it looks decent. I like the gun much better with the fiber optic front and the adjustable rear.

I can't wait to shoot these and see how accurate they are. I am going to do some shooting off of sandbag rests and make up some more match style ammo for them. Final thing I was noticing this morning is that the TS has a little play in the slide frame fit. I can rattle it if I shake it. May have always been that way...? I don't think I care either way as long as it is reasonably accurate.

All in all, I would say, if you want this done to your firearms... LET SOMEONE ELSE DO IT! CGW told me they only charge $30 to install them.

You will need more clearance than you have allowed for when the barrel gets hot.
Watch it the 1st time you run it. It might drag or hang.
I have drum sanders that I use if it only needs a little removed but you need to keep it round and true. The best way is with a ream but not everyone has these.

 

[ChrisK]

You will need more clearance than you have allowed for when the barrel gets hot.
Watch it the 1st time you run it. It might drag or hang.
I have drum sanders that I use if it only needs a little removed but you need to keep it round and true. The best way is with a ream but not everyone has these.

I have a adjustable reamer you could use if you were closer. It's the one I use for 1911 bushings.

 

[RustyHornet]

Does that gun get good reviews?

Have yet to read a bad one. We'll see if it passes my test, it should. CZ ergos, 15 rds of 45. Sounds like a winner to me.

 

[bjenkins]

Have yet to read a bad one. We'll see if it passes my test, it should. CZ ergos, 15 rds of 45. Sounds like a winner to me.

Bet it is nice, been creeping around looking at it also!

 

[craigkim]

You will need more clearance than you have allowed for when the barrel gets hot.
Watch it the 1st time you run it. It might drag or hang.
I have drum sanders that I use if it only needs a little removed but you need to keep it round and true. The best way is with a ream but not everyone has these.

Oh boy! One more thing I hadn't thought of. I might call CGW and see how often that is an issue. I wouldn't say that it is tighter than my Wilson Combat and they cycle by hand fine, but obviously that is while cold.

If it's very close will the parts "marry" gradually with firing? My understanding, and LLh might be able to clarify more on this was that the reason I had to do ANY fitting of the bushing was that the barrel has to insert at an angle on the bushing to allow disassembly/reassembly. I assume that not every barrel inserts at exactly the same angle or hits in exactly the same spot on every shadow. Prior to even trying to install and prior to chilling the bushing, I confirmed relatively easy insertion and removal of the barrels from the bushing. Even if it gets tighter with heat,.... I think... it will still function.

Worst case... I see sets of adjustable reamers for sale. Wonder if I can get just that size?

 

[RustyHornet]

Bet it is nice, been creeping around looking at it also!

Everything I've read states that it's all forged, nothing I've seen says MIM. Apparently the factory is state of the art with CNC machines. I'm interested to see how it compares quality wise to the real deal Czech stuff. I think the deal at CDNN ends today.

 

[churchmouse]

Oh boy! One more thing I hadn't thought of. I might call CGW and see how often that is an issue. I wouldn't say that it is tighter than my Wilson Combat and they cycle by hand fine, but obviously that is while cold.

If it's very close will the parts "marry" gradually with firing? My understanding, and LLh might be able to clarify more on this was that the reason I had to do ANY fitting of the bushing was that the barrel has to insert at an angle on the bushing to allow disassembly/reassembly. I assume that not every barrel inserts at exactly the same angle or hits in exactly the same spot on every shadow. Prior to even trying to install and prior to chilling the bushing, I confirmed relatively easy insertion and removal of the barrels from the bushing. Even if it gets tighter with heat,.... I think... it will still function.

Worst case... I see sets of adjustable reamers for sale. Wonder if I can get just that size?

I use vernier calipers to set my clearances. After a few dozen of them you get a feel for it.
Shoot the gun and check it after every mag. If it starts to get tight.....stop.
As to marrying......no, not the best way.

 

[RustyHornet]

 

[craigkim]

I use vernier calipers to set my clearances. After a few dozen of them you get a feel for it.
Shoot the gun and check it after every mag. If it starts to get tight.....stop.
As to marrying......no, not the best way.

All I have are dial calipers. I am not opposed to owning a nicer set of vernier calipers, but not sure that would get me a lot.

As for your opinion on marrying.... I can't say as I totally disagree, but after 14 years I am still going.

 

[88E30M50]

I use vernier calipers to set my clearances. After a few dozen of them you get a feel for it.
Shoot the gun and check it after every mag. If it starts to get tight.....stop.
As to marrying......no, not the best way.

Do you remember the 1911 shoot in 2014 where my Delta Elite locked up when IndyJohn was shooting it? I think that was a case of a bushing that was too tight. That happened right after I fit a custom EGW bushing to the gun and I had them cut the bushing just a bit oversize on the ID so I could tune it to the barrel. I had like a zero clearance and when it warmed up, it locked solid for a bit. It was embarrassing, but once I figured out what the issue was, I cleaned the fit up and it's been good since.

Oh, and CZ.