Not a very good experience.

[smiley69_300]

As some of you may know. I bought a Taurus .357 magnum, We were shooting it today. Sometimes after I fired a round I would go to pull back the hammer and the empty cartridge would jam and keep the revolver from turning. We were using .38 special +p ammo. Any suggestions? I didnt know if it was the ammo or what?

 

[techres]

Take it back or send it to Taurus. Preferably take it back. If spent casing are causing a failure, then there is a huge problem.

 

[HandK]

You should not use +P ammo in any gun that is not marked on the frame rated for +P+ ammo, On my 942 S&W it is marked on the frame under the cylinder, you can only see it when the cylinder is open, if you gun is not marked for it it could damage the gun or even blow the gun to pieces and also hurt the shooter or others. Hope this helps.

 

[smiley69_300]

As soon as I had posted that. My wife was reading the manual. ANd the manual says that it is ok to +p ammo in the .357 but not recommended. Cause the cartridge is smaller and after firing can unseat from the case moving forward in the chamber possibly blocking the cylinder's rotation. So I think thats my answer so I need to try not +p ammo I guess.

 

[JBob77]

You should not use +P ammo in any gun that is not marked on the frame rated for +P+ ammo, On my 942 S&W it is marked on the frame under the cylinder, you can only see it when the cylinder is open, if you gun is not marked for it it could damage the gun or even blow the gun to pieces and also hurt the shooter or others. Hope this helps.

This Is a .357 magnum If I read correctly. 38 Special+P should be a cakewalk for that Pistola!

 

[lawrra]

This Is a .357 magnum If I read correctly. 38 Special+P should be a cakewalk for that Pistola!

That's what I was thinking.

 

[LPMan59]

This Is a .357 magnum If I read correctly. 38 Special+P should be a cakewalk for that Pistola!

beat me to it.

did you buy it new? usually taurus revolvers are pretty good. if you can take it back, do it. if you really like the gun it might be worth having it fixed locally rather than deal with Taurus's CS.

 

[smiley69_300]

Thats what I was thinking. But it says all +p ammo can cause jamming. So that makes feel better. I am gonna try regular .38 and .357 ammo. If it still does it than I will know something is wrong. But I am really thinking its the +p.

 

[smiley69_300]

beat me to it.

did you buy it new? usually taurus revolvers are pretty good. if you can take it back, do it. if you really like the gun it might be worth having it fixed locally rather than deal with Taurus's CS.

Yeah its brand new. Never been shot until today.

 

[LPMan59]

i only have 1 taurus revolver (605) and i havent had any issues with .38 sp +p.

do report back, i am curious.

 

[Indy_Guy_77]

It's not so much the pressures that are causing the problems with the .38+p but it's the case length.

But it's still perplexing to me how that'd cause problems.

It's not like a mag case sticks out any further/less than a 38 case. Even a 38 +P.

Like you said, OP, try it with standard 38 and 357 see if that doesn't help things.

-J-

 

[Michiana]

Question

As some of you may know. I bought a Taurus .357 magnum, We were shooting it today. Sometimes after I fired a round I would go to pull back the hammer and the empty cartridge would jam and keep the revolver from turning. We were using .38 special +p ammo. Any suggestions? I didnt know if it was the ammo or what?

Is the empty causing the problem or another shell? I had some oversized 38sp a while ago that caused the cyl to not turn because the bullet was hitting on the outside of the barrel. I had a similar problem years ago. I can't see how a empty shell can cause a problem. Take a good look at the situation again.

 

[Agent 007]

.

 

[public servant]

 

[dsol]

I shoot everything though my S&W L-frame 586 and Model 19. 38spl+p in the Model 19 is a cakewalk along with moderately loaded .357's, but it isn't all that fond of full bore .357's. Now the L-frame, it laughs at .38+p, I have run some of my dad's old fire spitting handloads though it without a hiccup. I swear that man had a death wish trying to see what his Blackhawk could take...

 

[Steve]

See below

 

[Steve]

Take it back to the dealer if possible. Trade up to a Ruger if possible. You now have no confidence in that particular handgun (not the brand, just that piece) and will start 2nd guessing it every time you shoot it. Not what you want in something that you are trusting your life to.

A Ruger SP 101 will put a huge grin on your face eveytime. Mine does.

 

[AverageMidwest]

I shoot everything though my S&W L-frame 586 and Model 19. 38spl+p in the Model 19 is a cakewalk along with moderately loaded .357's, but it isn't all that fond of full bore .357's. Now the L-frame, it laughs at .38+p, I have run some of my dad's old fire spitting handloads though it without a hiccup. I swear that man had a death wish trying to see what his Blackhawk could take...

Agreed....shoot 38+P most of the time through a four inch 686, as it's a lot easier and more pleasant than full bore .357. Never a problem with either on the functional side, it's ME that has the sore hand after shooting 125 grain .357s.

 

[IndyGunworks]

I have seen this happen with +p ammo in guns that have not so tight of cylinder specs.... My personal opinion is that the extra pressure causes the case to shift back slightly before its able to expand to the chamber walls, this was also on a tuarus revolver however i have heard of it happening on smiths and rugers as well, although its not a very common problem... i dont think there is much you can do about it besides hoping regular pressure ammo will not recreate your problem.

 

[jblomenberg16]

If you decide not to take it back, try shooting it a few more times and make sure you are used to the gun, and it is used to you.


I bought my wife a Taurus snubbie .38 special. I shot the first few boxes of ammo through it with no problems at all.

The first 3 or 4 rounds my wife shot through it did the exact same thing. At first I thought that maybe the case rim was some how not seated far enough, and was therefor haning up on the frame. I ruled that out though by manually indexing the cylinder several times (cocking and decocking with the gun pointed in a safe direction.)

What it turned out to be was that my wife wasn't quite pulling the trigger "hard" enough when shooting in double action. Now I know that is a bit of an oxymoron when talking about good trigger squeeze. She was pulling nice and slow and smooth, but for some reason her pull just wouldn't advance the cylinder completely, and it would hang up. If she pulled a bit more sharply, the thing ran like a top.

I don't know what would cause that, other than maybe just the gun needing to break in or something.



So, does it hang up in both Single and Double Action (looks like from your post you are shooting single action)?