My first NFA item I manufactured

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  • AllenM

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    I was also wondering about the large blast chambers causing too much turbulence.


    I could go ahead and free float it before doing anything just to eliminate 1 thing at a time

    Another thing that I am going to factor in is that I did not bore the baffle centers until after cutting the holes. going through the angles I think it would be truer to drill that first. I don't think I am getting strikes but I will be able to tell for sure now that I have shot it a bit.
    Plus I am hoping the carbon residue will give me some hints to what is going on inside.
     

    Woobie

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    As far as feedback, I don't necessarily mind having some ammo still be super. If I want subs I can buy subs, or experiment till I know which shoots super, and which shoots subs.

    I'm not really up to speed on twist rates for .22's. Are pistols tighter than rifle barrels, or all the same? If the former, that might mean cutting back a rifle barrel to 4.5" is (possibly) costing some stability.

    From a machining perspective, I can definitely see an advantage to boring before milling the baffles. I'm not smart enough on supressor design to comment on chamber size or shape.
     

    AllenM

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    I am going to scrap the whole hogged out barrel with a shroud over it idea. The next one will be of complete different design. I am going to redo a barrel insert with more barrel for this one but I will not use this design any more.

    From comments made I see that barrel length seems to be the biggest concern. I want it to be free floated without a lot of effort so I am going to keep OD at .920

    What about weight and overall length? Most target barrels start out at 18" I like the look and balance of 16.5" with a core that would leave roughly 9" of barrel. 18" I would be closer to 10+ inches of riffled barrel.

    Thoughts?
     

    Woobie

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    I would think 18" would be fine. I might actually prefer it. I really don't think it would change the look or the balance dramatically over 16.5". But the 16.5" is cool. I guess whichever one best meet your design goals.
     

    Rookie

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    Weight - as light as possible
    Length - as short as possible

    Those would be my preferences. I'm thinking it would make a great hunting gun in the woods with that set up. My 10/22 is set up with a tactical solutions sbx for that reason.
     

    AllenM

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    Weight - as light as possible
    Length - as short as possible

    Those would be my preferences. I'm thinking it would make a great hunting gun in the woods with that set up. My 10/22 is set up with a tactical solutions sbx for that reason.

    those are my tastes as well
     

    jagee

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    Allen can help get you there... he cerakoted one of my nfa's :)

    Chop the barrel on my INGO AR to ~11" and thread it for the can I will get eventually...like another 5-10 years eventually. Also, the chopping of the barrel may wait a few years. I'm a cheap ass.
     

    AllenM

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    I wanted to post an update. While i will not be doing this exact same design in the future I figured I might as well make this one work before moving on.
    I reworked this barrel and removed the flier issues. I was getting baffle strikes before. When the barrel got warm it warped a small amount and I got baffle strikes. I enlarged the bore and also added channels to connect all the chambers so it would disperse the gasses more evenly.
    Everything helped with out sacrificing quietness.
    I still have not shot it for accuracy but at least it should be consistent and I can have some fun with it instead of chomping it up.

    This is me shooting some standard velocity federal 22's


    [video=youtube;gdIYz6BwOF8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdIYz6BwOF8&feature=youtu.be[/video]
     

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