Working on my first AR build, got the lower completed and all I am missing now is the completed upper. I'm completely new to ARs, this will be my first build and my first AR15. I'm looking at completed uppers online and am not sure what would suit me the best, one in particular that caught my eye was this one: Core Rifle Systems C15 AR-15 Complete Upper Assembly .223 Rem/5.56 NATO 16" M4 Barrel Carbine Length Gas Magpul MOE Handguard A2 Front Sight Black 100273B However I can't really say what drew me to it, other than the appearance and I like that it doesn't "look cheap" compared to some of the others, whatever that means. And yes, I know y'all hate CheaperThanDirt. Sorry, this is going to be a semi-budget build, and although I am not wanting to buy the cheapest parts for it I don't want to spend more than I have to for the parts I do want. A penny saved is a penny earned.
I know that .223 can be fired from a barrel marked for 5.56, and I know that the opposite isn't always true (unless it's .233 Wylde chambered), though I am unsure if I should seek out a 5.56 upper for shooting both, or if I should get one marked specifically for .223, or .223 Wylde. I'm unsure what ammo is available more.
I s'pose choosing the right upper also depends on what I want to do with it, right? Well, the closest range near me is Crosley and the one I'd be at the most this summer I'd reckon. I believe their longest range is 200 (or 300, forget) yards, never used it. My pistols aren't accurate at that distance (haha). In the ideal world I'd be able to plink a targets on the shorter ranges and move down to the long range. So this leads me to believe I'll be needing something where I can easily add/remove optics. For short range plinking I'll be alright with stock iron sights or something cheap. For longer range stuff I suppose I'd be needing to attach something better, correct? Because I want something sort of 'all around', what barrel twist rate should I be looking for?
Should be noted that I'm not deadset on the upper I linked to above, was simply using it as an example of something that 'looked nice' to me, though it's likely it's completely wrong for my intended use so please don't confuse what I consider to 'look nice' to that of what I need. I don't know what I need, I'm hoping you can help me figure that out.
As always, appreciative of the guidance and the knowledge here. Ask me questions if needed to help dial down options. Trying to keep the cost of the completed upper at $600 or less if possible.
I know that .223 can be fired from a barrel marked for 5.56, and I know that the opposite isn't always true (unless it's .233 Wylde chambered), though I am unsure if I should seek out a 5.56 upper for shooting both, or if I should get one marked specifically for .223, or .223 Wylde. I'm unsure what ammo is available more.
I s'pose choosing the right upper also depends on what I want to do with it, right? Well, the closest range near me is Crosley and the one I'd be at the most this summer I'd reckon. I believe their longest range is 200 (or 300, forget) yards, never used it. My pistols aren't accurate at that distance (haha). In the ideal world I'd be able to plink a targets on the shorter ranges and move down to the long range. So this leads me to believe I'll be needing something where I can easily add/remove optics. For short range plinking I'll be alright with stock iron sights or something cheap. For longer range stuff I suppose I'd be needing to attach something better, correct? Because I want something sort of 'all around', what barrel twist rate should I be looking for?
Should be noted that I'm not deadset on the upper I linked to above, was simply using it as an example of something that 'looked nice' to me, though it's likely it's completely wrong for my intended use so please don't confuse what I consider to 'look nice' to that of what I need. I don't know what I need, I'm hoping you can help me figure that out.
As always, appreciative of the guidance and the knowledge here. Ask me questions if needed to help dial down options. Trying to keep the cost of the completed upper at $600 or less if possible.