i was at the range and a guy had a brand new rock river (who is touted as having good quality control) but his stock was installed improperly; consequently, he did not have the parts needed to run his gun (various springs/pins, buffer retainer...I was leaving the range so i gave him parts from mine to make it work....there is no difference in some of these parts and one knucklehead can screw up an otherwise good quality rifle setup....
Short version: Two used guns, same price. AR #1 is a factory built (sorry, I have to pick a name) Olympic/DPMS/(newer)Bushmaster. AR #2 is an average Frankengun; Spikes lower, unknown upper, Rainier/BCM barrel, AIM/PSA/unknown BCG, unknown LPK. I'm buying #2. Actually, I wouldn't be interested in either of the 2 AR's but assuming I had to choose one... If the seller/builder is an unknown, or the factory has a less than sterling reputation, the parts play a BIG role. In this scenario, I can fix stupid.
Long version: A perfectly serviceable AR can be assembled by nearly anyone who has the slightest bit of mechanical inclination, and this can be proven at nearly any range on almost any day. They're everywhere. It's also true that some people manage to screw it up, and you see those AR's at the range as well... usually in the form of canted gas blocks. But I'd wager that most of us have had a new factory firearm that needed immediate "attention" before it was functional, or at least reliable... a Saiga 12 "Vodka Special" is an excellent example of this genre, and it's based on the uber reliable AK pattern. And while Taurus makes some guns that are perfectly reliable for many years, I'm pretty sure I'd take a Frankengun built by some members of INGO over a Taurus AR, all other things being equal.
So, yeah; haters gonna hate. But how much less is an AR with a Noveske barrel worth because the knuckledragger didn't stake the castle nut? For that matter, does staking the castle nut add $50 dollars to the value of a gun? $100? Remember, a hater doesn't know how tight the castle nut was torqued to, only that it's staked... which applies equally to factory builds. Now, if I were to see red loctite oozing out of the barrel nut onto the receiver, that would raise a red flag. But not knowing what a standard USGI barrel nut was torqued to is no big deal; if it's more than hand tight and the gas tube fits, it's within spec. With other barrel nuts, you really should use a torque wrench.
Disclaimer: I am not a factory trained armor, nor have I attended any civilian or military armor schools. That said, the TM and specs for an AR are widely and easily available, and at some point I learned how to reed and rite. I started disassembling everything in the house as soon as I discovered tools, much to the chagrin of my parents. I rebuilt the the top end of my Suzuki TM-75 when I was 12, and a VW Bug engine at 15. Then a Chevy 327 at 17... etc, etc... I gather that this would be unusual these days. So ask yourself, how many people that assemble AR's in a factory have any experience (past employee training)? Do they even shoot, or is their job "just a paycheck."
Last edited: