fish selections.... 10 gal, going to 55 gal soon.

[Frosty]

How old is she Caleb? You might need to put the food out of reach, then give her the proper amount to feed them. Just don't stress to much about, that's her' sand dad's tank.

 

[Caleb]

I keep telling her to not put stuff into fish tank, I'll never know what I'll find in the fish tank such as ay to much food or non-fishy object that could be harmful to fish.

 

[HeadlessRoland]

I really wish my daughter didn't take upon herself to feed the fishtank...a whole bag of algae wafers made my tank cloudy.

Well, that's going to cause a severe phosphate/nitrate spike without heavy filtration.

 

[Caleb]

Well, that's going to cause a severe phosphate/nitrate spike without heavy filtration.

I feel compelled to check the water...brb

 

[Caleb]

ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite all show 0 ppm according to my API master test kit...

 

[HeadlessRoland]

ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite all show 0 ppm according to my API master test kit...

Well, phosphate will spike regardless, but so long as ammonia and its off-gases are all right, your filtration is adequate.
How tall is she in relation to the tank that she can drop things into it?

 

[Caleb]

just retested as I was doing it wrong...ammonia is around 0.25 ppm and nitrate is between 0 ppm and 5 ppm, lot closer to 0 ppm.

 

[HeadlessRoland]

just retested as I was doing it wrong...ammonia is around 0.25 ppm and nitrate is between 0 ppm and 5 ppm, lot closer to 0 ppm.

Oh, not good. Ammonia is spiking some, then. If you've got solid aeration, I would dose a little bit of Seachem Prime or equivalent de-chlorinator. Prime is my preferred brand, but any good de-chlorinator will wipe out ammonia, at a trade-off of a very very slight decrease in oxygenation.

Actually, with yours still being such a small volume, I'd follow that off with a 50% water change.

 

[Caleb]

Oh, not good. Ammonia is spiking some, then. If you've got solid aeration, I would dose a little bit of Seachem Prime or equivalent de-chlorinator. Prime is my preferred brand, but any good de-chlorinator will wipe out ammonia, at a trade-off of a very very slight decrease in oxygenation.

Actually, with yours still being such a small volume, I'd follow that off with a 50% water change.

performed 3 40% water changes since retrieving food from the tank, I used stress coat+...actually I just used the last of it.

 

[Caleb]

I think the food prompted a mini-cycle...annoyed with the cloudy water, I don't believe the ammonia level are at a dangerous level at 0.25 ppm. The fish will fast for a day or two to reduce food in tank as well as waste. Speaking of food, what does rainbow sharks usually eat? I did try sticking a microwaved cucumber in there but I don't think he took to it.

 

[HeadlessRoland]

I think the food prompted a mini-cycle...annoyed with the cloudy water, I don't believe the ammonia level are at a dangerous level at 0.25 ppm. The fish will fast for a day or two to reduce food in tank as well as waste. Speaking of food, what does rainbow sharks usually eat? I did try sticking a microwaved cucumber in there but I don't think he took to it.

No, 0.25 ppm NH4 isn't lethal, but it's not good and indicative of an upward trend, especially if you were running 0 ppm before. 0.5ppm is my personal 'panic' action level, but if I notice that for whatever reason I'm running 0.25ppm, I like to nip things in the bud. And yes, too much food will always cause a spike. Not familiar with Stress Coat plus (or the API brand in general, really) as a de-chlorinator/de-ammoniator, since I use Prime, but so long as it detoxes ammonia and you're running good mechanical/biological filtration, especially combined with the heavy water changes, you're probably going to be fine. Maybe add a little aquarium freshwater salt to help reduce nitrate toxicity, but remember that it won't evap out. I would definitely consider fashioning a lid-lock with wire mesh inside two wooden frames and a lock on the front, if she's prone to dumping things in randomly. Kids are only trying to help feed the fish, but they don't understand why Daddy gets annoyed when suddenly he's pulling his hair out.

 

[Caleb]

No, 0.25 ppm NH4 isn't lethal, but it's not good and indicative of an upward trend, especially if you were running 0 ppm before. 0.5ppm is my personal 'panic' action level, but if I notice that for whatever reason I'm running 0.25ppm, I like to nip things in the bud. And yes, too much food will always cause a spike. Not familiar with Stress Coat plus (or the API brand in general, really) as a de-chlorinator/de-ammoniator, since I use Prime, but so long as it detoxes ammonia and you're running good mechanical/biological filtration, especially combined with the heavy water changes, you're probably going to be fine. Maybe add a little aquarium freshwater salt to help reduce nitrate toxicity, but remember that it won't evap out. I would definitely consider fashioning a lid-lock with wire mesh inside two wooden frames and a lock on the front, if she's prone to dumping things in randomly. Kids are only trying to help feed the fish, but they don't understand why Daddy gets annoyed when suddenly he's pulling his hair out.

Hear you on the kids are only trying to help... I think the reason my prior test shows 0 ppm because I didn't use the test correctly, just got it two days prior and misunderstood the instructions. I do have an aquaclear 30, which pumps upto 150 gal/hr and does a really good job over the junk filter that came with the tank.

when I get my 55 gal my MIL has, I'm going to ditch the undergravel filter and build me a couple DIY canister filters then I'll build some even bigger ones when I get a larger tank.

 

[HeadlessRoland]

Reading more on Stress Coat plus, it makes no mention of ammonia detox, only chlorine/chloramines. I also don't like the notion of a synthetic slime coat on my fish, especially since healthy fish, even when fairly stressed, will revert back to producing a thick coat once non-stressed. I don't like the notion of adding aloe vera to my water since, again, healthy fish have healthy fins. I also note that it's rather pricey at ~$35/gallon (on sale online at one of the major petstore retailers) at the recommended 10-30mL/10g to treat normal tapwater, 128 oz. will treat approximately 1,280-3,840 gallons. Whereas Prime gives exact parameters for how many ppm of ammonia, chlorine, and chloramine will be detoxed, in addition to nitrate and nitrate. Also, at 5mL/50g, one gallon (which, to be fair, cost me roughly $75) treats up to 38,400 gallons. Double cost, tenfold effectiveness, and it additionally detoxes ammonia. You're welcome to use Stress Coat plus, especially since it's been working fine for you, but it's not terribly cost-effective - or as complete - in comparison. Just a thought.

Seachem. Prime

Welcome to API Fishcare: Stress Coat®

 

[Caleb]

Reading more on Stress Coat plus, it makes no mention of ammonia detox, only chlorine/chloramines. I also don't like the notion of a synthetic slime coat on my fish, especially since healthy fish, even when fairly stressed, will revert back to producing a thick coat once non-stressed. I don't like the notion of adding aloe vera to my water since, again, healthy fish have healthy fins. I also note that it's rather pricey at ~$35/gallon (on sale online at one of the major petstore retailers) at the recommended 10-30mL/10g to treat normal tapwater, 128 oz. will treat approximately 1,280-3,840 gallons. Whereas Prime gives exact parameters for how many ppm of ammonia, chlorine, and chloramine will be detoxed, in addition to nitrate and nitrate. Also, at 5mL/50g, one gallon (which, to be fair, cost me roughly $75) treats up to 38,400 gallons. Double cost, tenfold effectiveness, and it additionally detoxes ammonia. You're welcome to use Stress Coat plus, especially since it's been working fine for you, but it's not terribly cost-effective - or as complete - in comparison. Just a thought.

Seachem. Prime

Welcome to API Fishcare: Stress Coat®

At the time of the purchase of our betta fish, that was recommended to us. Now that it's gone, I'm open to other options...you recommend seachem prime then?

 

[HeadlessRoland]

Hear you on the kids are only trying to help... I think the reason my prior test shows 0 ppm because I didn't use the test correctly, just got it two days prior and misunderstood the instructions. I do have an aquaclear 30, which pumps upto 150 gal/hr and does a really good job over the junk filter that came with the tank.

when I get my 55 gal my MIL has, I'm going to ditch the undergravel filter and build me a couple DIY canister filters then I'll build some even bigger ones when I get a larger tank.

I loathe undergravel filters. They have a terrible tendency to produce anoxic zones if anaerobes establish themselves too heavily in the substrate. I do love the AquaClear brand, though. Minimal teardown and cleaning. Biggest PITA is trying to clean the square tubing. I use a bristle brush, but you really need one that will bend to get past the elbows. Other than that, it's easy to buy bulk filter floss and to bag your own bulk carbon. Once the bacteria are established, I throwaway the biopieces. They just create a bigger mess over time.

I have never tried to build my own canister, but I can see the advantage. I had an Eheim 2217, and it worked excellently until I stored it wet sideways in transit. Fried. But, they did warn me against it, I wasn't thinking when I packed it and when I unpacked it I had an "oh, ****" moment. But as for performance, I definitely recommend the brand. Just don't tip it over or store it on its side when wet.

 

[HeadlessRoland]

At the time of the purchase of our betta fish, that was recommended to us. Now that it's gone, I'm open to other options...you recommend seachem prime then?

You're welcome to compare them, I don't want to be a brand-nazi, but I do stand by the product, I've been using it for years, purchased it in all sizes from the small bottles up to the 4L size, and there's been no variation between them, and they do give parameters for treatment expressed in ppm, which I have yet to see another company do, so there's no guesswork. Short of using RO/DI, it's the next-best thing, in my opinion. But, in all fairness, I never have used Stress Coat plus, so I can't testify as to its performance like you can. But nowhere in the company's own product description does it list detox expressed in ppm, nor does it make mention of detoxing ammonia. I'd have to give the win to Prime in the absence of any supporting documentation denoting that Stress Coat does detox ammonia.

 

[Caleb]

You're welcome to compare them, I don't want to be a brand-nazi, but I do stand by the product, I've been using it for years, purchased it in all sizes from the small bottles up to the 4L size, and there's been no variation between them, and they do give parameters for treatment expressed in ppm, which I have yet to see another company do, so there's no guesswork. Short of using RO/DI, it's the next-best thing, in my opinion. But, in all fairness, I never have used Stress Coat plus, so I can't testify as to its performance like you can. But nowhere in the company's own product description does it list detox expressed in ppm, nor does it make mention of detoxing ammonia. I'd have to give the win to Prime in the absence of any supporting documentation denoting that Stress Coat does detox ammonia.

One of the things I never really liked about stress coat+ is how slimy is makes everything...I can see how it can be useful if your fish is in a sudden need of a slime coat, but other then that, it's one of those "I hope it's working" kind of product. Can you get seachem prime at LFS or walmart?

I've heard great things about the Eheim, for me, it would come down to which is cheaper(Eheim vs DIY).

DIY PVC pipe Canister Filter. Step by step. - DIY Aquarium Projects - Aquatic Plant Central

My DIY Canister Filter

Nice thing about the DIY filters, you can make it as big as you need it to be and customize how much of what media you want inside as well as selecting an internal or external powerheads(lets you pick how powerful you want your powerhead to be).

 

[HeadlessRoland]

One of the things I never really liked about stress coat+ is how slimy is makes everything...I can see how it can be useful if your fish is in a sudden need of a slime coat, but other then that, it's one of those "I hope it's working" kind of product. Can you get seachem prime at LFS or walmart?

I've heard great things about the Eheim, for me, it would come down to which is cheaper(Eheim vs DIY).

DIY PVC pipe Canister Filter. Step by step. - DIY Aquarium Projects - Aquatic Plant Central

My DIY Canister Filter

Nice thing about the DIY filters, you can make it as big as you need it to be and customize how much of what media you want inside as well as selecting an internal or external powerheads(lets you pick how powerful you want your powerhead to be).

Yeah, I can definitely see the advantage to DIY canisters. Those are very well-made. Only problem is that I would go overkill. Rule of thumb is 10x volume turnover per hour and I'd want one that would do 30x, and then if flow was too high, you could restrict the valves to get where you wanted it. But I'll try not to dwell on what could be.

Wal-Mart should carry the small bottles, I've routinely seen the 50mL and 100mL bottles there, but Marine Depot carries almost all sizes and tends to have unbeatable pricing. Just checked Walmart.com and Walmart wants $60/2L and MD wants $45.99/2L. Even with shipping, still a better deal. I keep a small bottle that I can hand-drop as needed and big bulk bottles to refill it. Otherwise over-dosing is inevitable. Never noticed any toxicity from overdosing, but I hate to waste any.

 

[Caleb]

Yeah, I can definitely see the advantage to DIY canisters. Those are very well-made. Only problem is that I would go overkill. Rule of thumb is 10x volume turnover per hour and I'd want one that would do 30x, and then if flow was too high, you could restrict the valves to get where you wanted it. But I'll try not to dwell on what could be.

...or have multiple outlet jets would reduce the pressure a bit.

Wal-Mart should carry the small bottles, I've routinely seen the 50mL and 100mL bottles there, but Marine Depot carries almost all sizes and tends to have unbeatable pricing. Just checked Walmart.com and Walmart wants $60/2L and MD wants $45.99/2L. Even with shipping, still a better deal. I keep a small bottle that I can hand-drop as needed and big bulk bottles to refill it. Otherwise over-dosing is inevitable. Never noticed any toxicity from overdosing, but I hate to waste any.

They carry the smaller packages at walmart?

 

[HeadlessRoland]

...or have multiple outlet jets would reduce the pressure a bit.



They carry the smaller packages at walmart?

They should carry both 50mL and 100mL sizes. It's usually next to the yellow Tetra products in most of the stores I've frequented.