36 gun safe @ Menards

[dave29]

That's a bummer. He should have sold it to you for no more than $450.

That's what I told them. He said, I'm already losing $10 by offering you $25 off.

 

[gregkl]

That's what I told them. He said, I'm already losing $10 by offering you $25 off.

I can't say for sure, but my safe had a paper stuck on it that showed a unit price of $439 each with 20 ordered, shipped from Plano, IL. I bet that was their cost.

 

[Dj15802]

If you use a stair dolly going up the stairs is easy. Check your rental stores. I moved a 600+ lb safe upstairs a while back with two people and didn't even break a sweat. If I remember, the rental was roughly $45.

 

[Cottong2001]

Picked one up Monday. It's in my basement. Nice safe. Was surprised to see the extra shelves inside. They call it a 36gun, but I don't see how you could ever get 36 long guns in there. Still, its a great buy.

 

[gregkl]

If you use a stair dolly going up the stairs is easy. Check your rental stores. I moved a 600+ lb safe upstairs a while back with two people and didn't even break a sweat. If I remember, the rental was roughly $45.

Yeah, I will look into that. I have a neighbor who is a former Purdue football player. Maybe I could get him to help. He still works out.

 

[patience0830]

It's a deal for sure. use the link and put in your zip.

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=fef05320ac8ae92ef507d5811416541d&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fingunowners.com%2Fforums%2Faccessories_and_gear%2F265990-36_gun_safe_menards-2.html&v=1&libid=1359506591605&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.menards.com%2Fmain%2Fp-1908092-c-6977.htm&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fingunowners.com%2Fforums%2Faccessories_and_gear%2F265990-36_gun_safe_menards-3.html&title=36%20gun%20safe%20%40%20Menards%20-%20Page%202%20-%20INGunOwners&txt=Sentinel%2036-Gun%20Executive%20Fire%20Safe%20with%20Electronic%20Lock%20at%20Menards&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13595065906582

Indiana stores with stock on the item are listed. Store info available with one click. I'm still holding my cash to buy a big Johnson.

 

[quake]

10 minutes later the sales guy and a lady walk back to me and say, bad news, we don't have the keys for the floor model, but we can sell you the smashed unit for $25 off. I go back in and look at the smashed unit and I pass. Drive around front, walk in and get my money back.

132 miles and almost 4 hours later, I still don't have a safe. Ugh.

Yeah that sucks. Although the sales/rebate price is already good, discounting only $25 bucks for a smashed one versus a new perfect condition one is kinda crap. The drive sure didn't help either. Sorry to hear....

 

[RobbyMaQ]

Do you think one of these would fit in my trunk?

 

[aclark]

I put it in a pickup. Probably would have fit in my wives rogue, but would have been a PITA.

 

[gregkl]

Do you think one of these would fit in my trunk?

Nope. No way in a trunk. Don't be fooled. 465 lbs is nothing to sneeze at.

 

[hpclayto]

I went yesterday to look at them at the Bloomington store. At that time they had a handful in stock. Went back today to pick one up and they were sold out

 

[sig1473]

I went yesterday to look at them at the Bloomington store. At that time they had a handful in stock. Went back today to pick one up and they were sold out

Yup. I thought guns were illegal in Bloomington

 

[zoglog]

I got mine Sunday. They lady asked why everyone was buying one. She said you dont have that many guns do you?

I told her it is my new bowflex...

 

[Avar]

Camby had them in when I was there earlier today

 

[Trenity1]

My buddy got 2 of these a few years ago during Black Friday, nice safe for the money!
I'll give you guys another tip, go to ebay and look for lowes 10% coupons. They have done away with these now and the last batches of them expire on feb. 15th. Menards will take the coupon saving you another $60.... If you don't want to wait on the ebay purchase as it is getting close to that date and the sale could end... Hit me up in pm, I have a few extra that ill let go for cheap. (Hope I'm not violating any rules... Just trying to save others a little more!

 

[Bottlefed]

Bought one that was damaged and they gave me an extra 125 off kinda scratch and dent

 

[CountryBoy19]

I went yesterday to look at them at the Bloomington store. At that time they had a handful in stock. Went back today to pick one up and they were sold out

Sorry about that... I called in Monday night and purchased the only remaining one (floor model) over the phone...

My buddy got 2 of these a few years ago during Black Friday, nice safe for the money!
I'll give you guys another tip, go to ebay and look for lowes 10% coupons. They have done away with these now and the last batches of them expire on feb. 15th. Menards will take the coupon saving you another $60.... If you don't want to wait on the ebay purchase as it is getting close to that date and the sale could end... Hit me up in pm, I have a few extra that ill let go for cheap. (Hope I'm not violating any rules... Just trying to save others a little more!

Last time I tried to use a 10% coupon it didn't discount the sale items. Since this safe is heavily discounted I'm certain that the 10% coupon will not work. I use the $10 coupons instead and those do work on sale items.


PSA for those that are buying one of these. #1 It is possible to move it yourself. I did last night out of necessity. My neighbor was supposed to help but when I got back home with the safe and told him I was ready he said he was sick and couldn't help. I had already laid it flat on it's back in the truck so I just slid it to the balancing point and slowly lowered it down to the ground then tipped it up straight. I then "walked it" corner-by-corner into my walkout basement.

#2 If you're not putting this on a concrete floor in a basement etc I highly recommend you add more insulation in the bottom. The bottom is only a single sheet of drywall and a thin sheet of particle board. There is a large air-gap between the bottom steel and the drywall leaving room for another sheet of drywall in there.

#3 I highly recommend you take the inside cover off and check all the fasteners in the door. I had several loose fasteners and things were "rattling" a lot. Caution: the lock-nuts on all of the sliding mechanisms are supposed to be "loose" to allow things to slide freely but mine were very loose. I lubed the slide points then snugged all the fasteners down to take the rattle out. My handle now turns with a bit of force but not overly hard.

#4 Seeing as how the door is going to be the most vulnerable part of my safe during a house fire I decided to add some extra insulation in there. I cut figerglass "duct-work" sheet with the foil backing on them to fit inside the door. I have 1-1/2 layer that is notched around all the door components then a final layer that covers them all. That should hopefully prevent the problem with the contents in the top of the safe overheating that is often seen in these cheap safes during a house fire.

#5 This is just a general announcement for anybody looking at getting one. These do have a key-override which can be a good thing or bad thing. The shelf supports a plastic (won't hold much weight), and the locking mechanism is the typical "junk" seen on cheap safes. The 1-3/4" locking bolts are only 2 inches long, single-supported, and are attached to the thin, stamped steel slide mechanism by nothing more than a 5/16" bolt. What this means is that during a pry attack, your door is going to pop open easily if they can get good leverage on it. I HIGHLY recommend placing this safe in a corner with the left wall of the safe against the wall of your house so that a thief cannot get a good angle to pry the door open.

 

[gregkl]

#2 If you're not putting this on a concrete floor in a basement etc I highly recommend you add more insulation in the bottom. The bottom is only a single sheet of drywall and a thin sheet of particle board. There is a large air-gap between the bottom steel and the drywall leaving room for another sheet of drywall in there. Curious as to why you would do this? Does it have something to do with moisture? I am either going to set in on my first floor slab foundation or my second floor bedroom(if I can figure out how to get it up the stairs).

#3 I highly recommend you take the inside cover off and check all the fasteners in the door. I had several loose fasteners and things were "rattling" a lot. Caution: the lock-nuts on all of the sliding mechanisms are supposed to be "loose" to allow things to slide freely but mine were very loose. I lubed the slide points then snugged all the fasteners down to take the rattle out. My handle now turns with a bit of force but not overly hard.

#4 Seeing as how the door is going to be the most vulnerable part of my safe during a house fire I decided to add some extra insulation in there. I cut figerglass "duct-work" sheet with the foil backing on them to fit inside the door. I have 1-1/2 layer that is notched around all the door components then a final layer that covers them all. That should hopefully prevent the problem with the contents in the top of the safe overheating that is often seen in these cheap safes during a house fire.

#5 This is just a general announcement for anybody looking at getting one. These do have a key-override which can be a good thing or bad thing. The shelf supports a plastic (won't hold much weight), and the locking mechanism is the typical "junk" seen on cheap safes. The 1-3/4" locking bolts are only 2 inches long, single-supported, and are attached to the thin, stamped steel slide mechanism by nothing more than a 5/16" bolt. What this means is that during a pry attack, your door is going to pop open easily if they can get good leverage on it. I HIGHLY recommend placing this safe in a corner with the left wall of the safe against the wall of your house so that a thief cannot get a good angle to pry the door open.

I won't be able to do number 5, but will take a look at the other tips. Thanks!

 

[CountryBoy19]

Curious as to why you would do this? Does it have something to do with moisture? I am either going to set in on my first floor slab foundation or my second floor bedroom(if I can figure out how to get it up the stairs).

Are you asking why the factory would leave the air-gap?

Or why I would suggest adding more insulation?

I'm going to assume the first. It's purely cost-based. When they test these safes they set the flat on a floor and blast a fire at the front, back, sides, and top. The bottom doesn't get blasted by the fire. Their only interest is getting the safe to pass the test and therefore they don't worry too much about insulating the bottom more than one sheet. For an application where this is sitting flat on a solid concrete floor (as in their test) it's not a problem. However, if you put this in a 2nd story, there is a chance that a fire in the basement will be able to heat the bottom of the safe. That's a problem. The air-gap may help a bit with moisture but I'm not seeing how it really could make much difference.

 

[gregkl]

Are you asking why the factory would leave the air-gap?

Or why I would suggest adding more insulation?

I'm going to assume the first. It's purely cost-based. When they test these safes they set the flat on a floor and blast a fire at the front, back, sides, and top. The bottom doesn't get blasted by the fire. Their only interest is getting the safe to pass the test and therefore they don't worry too much about insulating the bottom more than one sheet. For an application where this is sitting flat on a solid concrete floor (as in their test) it's not a problem. However, if you put this in a 2nd story, there is a chance that a fire in the basement will be able to heat the bottom of the safe. That's a problem. The air-gap may help a bit with moisture but I'm not seeing how it really could make much difference.

Okay, I see. So I am okay if I set in on my first story slab foundation.