35 Remington - 1.800"

[coyotehunter4]

CH,

Have you run those through a chronograph, by any chance? The reason I ask is that QL is showing you're leaving a fair bit of velocity on the table, versus a slightly faster-burning powder, like RL10X or H322. Something along the lines of 200fps. less than the ~2200 you could get with a faster powder.

The 4064 load is definitely safe and if the accuracy is great, that is what matter the most, obviously. Still, if you could get the same solid groups with a substantial increase in speed, that would be pretty cool, as well. Consider running some test loads with a MAX charge of 33.5gr RL10X, or a MAX charge of 36gr H322. Back both of those off 10% for starting loads.

I know I am down on velocity, but they stabilized really well out of my Marlin. I was planning on doing some more testing after the season just haven't had a chance yet. Thanks for the info I will make a note of it.

 

[coyotehunter4]

I use Lee dies and have the FCD that i use on my normal loads...what do you mean by "Cut the die down"?

Thanks for the load suggestion...right now i am loading with IMR 4895. At the moment i am loading Hornady 200 gr RN XTP's (because i found a box on the cheap thats what i have on hand)...but not the leverlutions.

If you try to crimp the brass when it is trimmed to 1.800" with the Lee Factory Crimp Die it will crimp on the bullet and not the brass because the brass is to short. To fix that you need to mill roughly .120" off the lower end of the die. It is tough to do and keep it straight, I turned mine in a lathe, but alot of people dont have a lathe avalable.

 

[FMJ]

If you try to crimp the brass when it is trimmed to 1.800" with the Lee Factory Crimp Die it will crimp on the bullet and not the brass because the brass is to short. To fix that you need to mill roughly .120" off the lower end of the die. It is tough to do and keep it straight, I turned mine in a lathe, but alot of people dont have a lathe avalable.

Couldnt i just just set the die .120" deeper?

I know a guy with a lathe, and have the skills to get it done, i just dont want to "ruin" a die or have to buy another for loading "regular" .35's

 

[Broom_jm]

From what I understand, you can't set the die deeper, AND it's not as simple as turning it down with a lathe, either. Check with Kludge...he understand the engineering challenge of this a lot better than I do.

 

[kludge]

I plead ignorance, I've not done the mod myself... there was a post around here somewhere that described the process though.

Here it is, post #17... https://www.indianagunowners.com/forums/ammunition_and_reloading/250949-trimming_cases-2.html

From *my* understanding you should not have to take any off the threaded part of the die... as long as you don't trim the collet so far that it is shortened past the treads of the die.

Ammosmith has a video that explains how the LFCD works... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQGTFkklSTk

You can control the amount of crimp by screwing the die in a little at a time. I would guess that most people are setting COL to standard .35 Rem dimensions and using the crimp die to crimp the bullet below the cannelure.

 

[coyotehunter4]

I plead ignorance, I've not done the mod myself... there was a post around here somewhere that described the process though.

Here it is, post #17... https://www.indianagunowners.com/forums/ammunition_and_reloading/250949-trimming_cases-2.html

From *my* understanding you should not have to take any off the threaded part of the die... as long as you don't trim the collet so far that it is shortened past the treads of the die.

Ammosmith has a video that explains how the LFCD works... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQGTFkklSTk

You can control the amount of crimp by screwing the die in a little at a time. I would guess that most people are setting COL to standard .35 Rem dimensions and using the crimp die to crimp the bullet below the cannelure.[/QUOTE

That is correct. The brass is trimmed roughly .120" which leaves then brass .120" below the cannelure of the bullet. That is why the die must be shortened .120" to crimp the top of the brass.

 

[Tom Threetoes]

Don't you need to shorten the threaded part also? By the time the inner part is trimmed There's not enough left to contact the shell holder and make the crimp. I have the die but don't have it trimmed yet. Just from looking at it it looks like that would be the case.

 

[kludge]

The collet/sleeve, whatever you want to call it, probably only moves up 1/16 of an inch when crimping.

I don't have a .35 Rem crimp die, but I have a .308 crimp die and it has ~1/3 of an inch sticking out, and would still have plenty of room to trim .120" and still function.

 

[coyotehunter4]

You just have to trim the inner piece .120". The trick is to hold the inner collet from spinning while you turn it down. It wouldn"t be so bad if you could take it apart, but I couldn"t get it to come apart.

 

[Tom Threetoes]

I should have measured the exposed part of the collet before I posted. Just looking, it appears that there's not much more than .120 sticking out. That's what happens when my mouth acts before my brain.

 

[djones]

For my shortened 45-70 I took .3 off the bottom of my lee fcd it works great

 

[mike trible]

.35-1.8

I was able to get the collet out of my Lee FCD. I screwed the die into my press, I then took a 1/2" hardwood dowel rod and put it into the top of the die, and it stopped on top of the collet. I took a small hammer and gave the dowel rod a sharp whack, and the collet came out of the bottom of the die. I was then able to push it back in when I was done trimming it.

 

[camoivey]

I recently purchased a 336 35 rem for my new deer gun for next season. I am wanting to start working up so loads. I was wondering if anyone has any updates on new loads they have done. Also, I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts as far as mimicking the Buffalo Bore 220 with the shortened case or would the pressure be too much with the short neck?

 

[Broom_jm]

Welcome to Indiana Gun Owners Forum, Camoivey.

As far as loads for the shortened 35 Remington, most guys have been following the recipes found in reloading manuals. The only change is how to go about crimping with the shorter neck. I don't know what the BB loads are comprised of, but it would be hard to beat the combination of LVR powder and the 200gr FTX bullet.

Short necks have little to no impact on the amount of pressure that can be created within a case. The 300 Win Mag has a neck that is only .264" long and operates at much higher pressure than a 35 Remington. Also, the 358BFG 1.8 runs up around 60,000psi with a neck that is roughly the same length as the 35 Remington, trimmed to 1.800". No worries there.

 

[camoivey]

The bullet appears to be a 220 speer but I guess no one is to sure about the powder they are loaded with but they are known for their accuracy and stopping power of elk, moose, etc at ranges up to 250 yards. They do however have a hefty price tag. Also, I know this has already been talked about but as far as die modification, I saw there was some confusion within the thread as to what needs to be done. I just ordered a Lee Precision 3 die set and plan on starting to play with some rounds whenever I get them but being that I am a poor college kid I want to make sure that I make the right modification to the dies so I don't end up having to shell out another $40. So, is it just removing .12" off the base of the factory crimp die or what exactly is needed? Again sorry for repeating this but I'd rather be safe then sorry.

 

[Broom_jm]

The bullet appears to be a 220 speer but I guess no one is to sure about the powder they are loaded with but they are known for their accuracy and stopping power of elk, moose, etc at ranges up to 250 yards. They do however have a hefty price tag. Also, I know this has already been talked about but as far as die modification, I saw there was some confusion within the thread as to what needs to be done. I just ordered a Lee Precision 3 die set and plan on starting to play with some rounds whenever I get them but being that I am a poor college kid I want to make sure that I make the right modification to the dies so I don't end up having to shell out another $40. So, is it just removing .12" off the base of the factory crimp die or what exactly is needed? Again sorry for repeating this but I'd rather be safe then sorry.

From what I can gather, the "best" option is to take your Lee Factory Crimp Die apart and shorten the inner collet by .120", or thereabouts.

 

[camoivey]

Cutting that off the bottom end correct?

 

[coyotehunter4]

Yes take it of the bottom end. If I were better with the computer I would take a picture of mine and edit it to show you but I would never figure out how to do all that. Just take it off of the bottom of the die.

 

[camoivey]

The collet stays original correct?

 

[mike trible]

.35-1.8

No. You trim .12" off the bottom of the COLLET, you do not trim the Lee FCD, die itself. A few posts back I tell how I removed and replaced my collet.