1911 carry

[rgrimm01]

Just look at Sig Sauer's problems as of late. Why are they having problems you may ask? It is because the CEO is from Kimber(Ron Cohen). Cheers

I am curious as to which sigs you are referring to, the 1911's or all models. I have narrowed my selection on next purchase and the P220 is near or at the top of the list.

 

[sig1473]

I am curious as to which sigs you are referring to, the 1911's or all models. I have narrowed my selection on next purchase and the P220 is near or at the top of the list.

Overall in general the newer Sigs that are made in USA. They don't stack up to the older German made models or the older US models. They are trying to push out volume with sales to make their investors happy instead of attention to detail. It is really a shame. I still own 4 Sigs myself(220,229,239,556). I just hope they get back to their old way of making quality firearms and restoring the once prestigous SIG name.

 

[daspurlock]

What about rock island officer model?

 

[88E30M50]

What about rock island officer model?

I have a Rock Island Compact and it's been a good gun. I swapped the mainspring for a 24# instead of the stock 22# to handle the higher power loads a bit better. The mag that comes with it has given some folks trouble, but I've actually had good luck with mine. I do only use the factory mag for range practice though and swap Wilson Combat mags into the Rock before carrying. One downside is that with the single recoil spring, the spring change interval is pretty short. Wolff recommends a 400 round spring change, which can feel pretty short at times. On the other hand, they springs are about $8, so if you pick up a pair at a time, you will probably only spring for the cost of new springs every year or two with average use.

Since getting mine a couple of years ago, I fitted an extended thumb safety and stoned the sear and hammer a bit to eliminate a bit of scratchiness it had. The factory trigger really was not bad though and was a bit nicer than the trigger on either of my Kimbers out of the box. But, with use, the Kimber triggers have become quite nice and are on par with the stoned Rock trigger.

 

[Caleb]

I still intending to get me a kimber

 

[melensdad]

Safari Arms has a "solid reputation"? MMMM, OK.

Yes, and searching the internet forums tends to uphold that opinion. Folks who actually own them have very few problems with them and claim they are exceptionally well made. The 2 I have are both exceptional guns, easily better fit/finish than any Colt 1911 that I've ever owned, easily more accurate too. Safari Arms pistols are all semi-custom guns, the shop produces very few guns per year and they are pretty much hand made. There is a reason that the waiting lists for these guns is so long, the craftsmanship it takes to make them creates a backlog. Typical wait for a basic model is typically 3 to 6 months, the Westerner series was running closer to a year wait from the time you put down your deposit.

I've known many people with Safari Arms pistols, all were happy. For any brand there are always a few haters, usually people who've never owned the brand and know not of what they speak.

 

[Caleb]

Aside from a kimber, also thought about getting an para ordnance

 

[melensdad]

. . . thought about getting an para ordnance

I have 2 of them. Both are very good pistols.

One had a MIM part break (the grip safety) that still allowed the gun to function while the part was broken into 2 pieces. I asked them to mail me a new part and they would not. I had to send the gun back. Turnaround time for the repair was about 10 or 12 days. I'd been told to expect a much longer wait so I was happy it took less than 2 weeks.

The finish on some of the aluminum frame Para pistols is prone to chipping. It doesn't seem to affect their black framed guns, but if you get the green or desert tan then you might want to treat the gun with care. My OD Green frame on my Para Carry9 looks like I dragged it through rocks. The black finished slide looks perfect, its only the OD Green paint on the frame that is chipped/nicked. My black framed Warthog still looks perfect too.

 

[Caleb]

I have 2 of them. Both are very good pistols.

One had a MIM part break (the grip safety) that still allowed the gun to function while the part was broken into 2 pieces. I asked them to mail me a new part and they would not. I had to send the gun back. Turnaround time for the repair was about 10 or 12 days. I'd been told to expect a much longer wait so I was happy it took less than 2 weeks.

The finish on some of the aluminum frame Para pistols is prone to chipping. It doesn't seem to affect their black framed guns, but if you get the green or desert tan then you might want to treat the gun with care. My OD Green frame on my Para Carry9 looks like I dragged it through rocks. The black finished slide looks perfect, its only the OD Green paint on the frame that is chipped/nicked. My black framed Warthog still looks perfect too.

Which company wouldn't mail you the part? I hear para used plastic grip safety on some of thier gun, so I'd would have guess it them. I was planning on getting black anyways, or maybe have it dura coated...

 

[CalebToNowhere]

What new Kimbers are you referencing? I have an Ultra Carry Stainless Raptor and it runs my reloads just fine...

Might look at them new Kimbers they got out. Nice pistol for the money. Only draw back I seen on 1 is they are factory ammo specific.
Unless it's a 22 I don't buy factory ammo.

 

[88E30M50]

I've had no issues running reloads through either of my Kimbers. One is an Ultra Carry and the other is a Compact Stainless. Both have functioned flawlessly. The finish on both of them is on the weak side though. Both are aluminum framed and both frames chip easily. It's not easy to paint aluminum and have a high level of durability, so I'm not overly worried about the finish. The chips on the compact blend in with the silver finish and I just live with the chips on the black framed Ultra.

 

[melensdad]

Which company wouldn't mail you the part? I hear para used plastic grip safety on some of thier gun, so I'd would have guess it them. I was planning on getting black anyways, or maybe have it dura coated...

Para wouldn't mail the part, they required the whole gun be sent back for service.

The grip safety is NOT plastic, it is a MIM part. Kimber uses a lot of MIM parts and they actually pioneered the use of them.

 

[Caleb]

Para wouldn't mail the part, they required the whole gun be sent back for service.

The grip safety is NOT plastic, it is a MIM part. Kimber uses a lot of MIM parts and they actually pioneered the use of them.

Would you rather have a kimber with mim parts or a para with mim parts?

 

[adam]

Would you rather have a kimber with mim parts or a para with mim parts?

Don't be silly. Kimber, all day, erry day.

 

[melensdad]

Would you rather have a kimber with mim parts or a para with mim parts?

After having a gun with MIM parts break I would prefer never to carry a gun with MIM parts.

While my gun was --fortunately-- still functional after the grip safety snapped in half, its probably just as likely that the gun could have been non-functional if the part would have broken slightly differently. I was carrying the gun at the time the part broke, not sure how it broke, but when I unholstered the part was broken in my hand. WTF?

Now its a very very rare day that I carry a gun with MIM parts. Given that there are guns available that don't have MIM parts, why would you choose ANY gun that had them as your carry gun?

I'm very fortunate that I have a large selection of guns to shoot, so I can have some MIM parts on some guns and take them to the range, but not worry about them as carry weapons because I have dozens of others that are suitable carry guns without any MIM parts. But if I was limited to only one, or perhaps even just a few guns, and if all were going to be in my carry rotation, then NONE would have MIM parts.

Kimbers are pretty, often fancy. Para more utilitarian in look. Both have MIM parts. Therefore neither is going to be on my hip if my life depends upon it.

Don't be silly. Kimber, all day, erry day.

I understand brand preference, but I don't see the need to risk using a gun, of any brand, if MIM parts are used for critical parts. So how about neither of us be silly. How about we agree that MIM parts are not as strong as billet parts. How about we agree that MIM parts break much easier than just about any other type of metal part. How about we even agree with the fact that MIM parts have a mediocre reputation due to failures. That all agreed upon now, why would you choose ANY brand that had MIM parts IF you had the opportunity to choose a brand that didn't utilize clearly inferior parts?

I think the Para guns are a good value. I think the Kimber guns are pretty slick. I don't want to carry either into a gunfight.

 

[adam]

After having a gun with MIM parts break I would prefer never to carry a gun with MIM parts.

While my gun was --fortunately-- still functional after the grip safety snapped in half, its probably just as likely that the gun could have been non-functional if the part would have broken slightly differently. I was carrying the gun at the time the part broke, not sure how it broke, but when I unholstered the part was broken in my hand. WTF?

Now its a very very rare day that I carry a gun with MIM parts. Given that there are guns available that don't have MIM parts, why would you choose ANY gun that had them as your carry gun?

I'm very fortunate that I have a large selection of guns to shoot, so I can have some MIM parts on some guns and take them to the range, but not worry about them as carry weapons because I have dozens of others that are suitable carry guns without any MIM parts. But if I was limited to only one, or perhaps even just a few guns, and if all were going to be in my carry rotation, then NONE would have MIM parts.

Kimbers are pretty, often fancy. Para more utilitarian in look. Both have MIM parts. Therefore neither is going to be on my hip if my life depends upon it.

I understand brand preference, but I don't see the need to risk using a gun, of any brand, if MIM parts are used for critical parts. So how about neither of us be silly. How about we agree that MIM parts are not as strong as billet parts. How about we agree that MIM parts break much easier than just about any other type of metal part. How about we even agree with the fact that MIM parts have a mediocre reputation due to failures. That all agreed upon now, why would you choose ANY brand that had MIM parts IF you had the opportunity to choose a brand that didn't utilize clearly inferior parts?

I think the Para guns are a good value. I think the Kimber guns are pretty slick. I don't want to carry either into a gunfight.

I've owned both brands, a 14-45 Limited and currently a Kimber Classic Custom. The Para had rough spots on the frame where it looked like air bubbles or w/e had been there during the cast process. Also, the ambi-safety liked to dis-assemble while shooting.

Now my Kimber is a gem. I bought it used off of a guy on here, and I'm in love. It simply shoots. More accurate, smoother, tighter than the Para, Taurus, or SA GI 1911 I've owned. I've put almost 800 rounds down the tube since I've bought it with out an issue. No parts failure, no FTF/FTE. I understand 800 is a very small number to some people but I have no qualms carrying it and do believe that in a self defense situation it will do it's thing.

My brand preference comes from my own personal experience. My "all day, erry day" was just for the lulz...but if I were to choose between the two I'd go Kimber in a heart beat.

 

[Effingham]

To get over being nervous about it on your next day off strap it on with no rounds in it and carry it around the house all day cocked and locked while bending, sitting, playing with the dog, getting in and out of your vehicle and buckle in and out of the seat belt, etc., etc. and then check to see if the safety is still firmly engaged. Reach back every once in a while and push the hammer back as far as it will go and see if the safety still holds it back. If the safety is properly fitted and your holster is not trying to push it off you'll see that it's really a pretty safe arrangement. If it's going to come off safe it's better on an unloaded gun.

This is bloody brilliant. I'm off to test my gun that way now. Thanks!

 

[Caleb]

After having a gun with MIM parts break I would prefer never to carry a gun with MIM parts.

While my gun was --fortunately-- still functional after the grip safety snapped in half, its probably just as likely that the gun could have been non-functional if the part would have broken slightly differently. I was carrying the gun at the time the part broke, not sure how it broke, but when I unholstered the part was broken in my hand. WTF?

Now its a very very rare day that I carry a gun with MIM parts. Given that there are guns available that don't have MIM parts, why would you choose ANY gun that had them as your carry gun?

I'm very fortunate that I have a large selection of guns to shoot, so I can have some MIM parts on some guns and take them to the range, but not worry about them as carry weapons because I have dozens of others that are suitable carry guns without any MIM parts. But if I was limited to only one, or perhaps even just a few guns, and if all were going to be in my carry rotation, then NONE would have MIM parts.

Kimbers are pretty, often fancy. Para more utilitarian in look. Both have MIM parts. Therefore neither is going to be on my hip if my life depends upon it.





I understand brand preference, but I don't see the need to risk using a gun, of any brand, if MIM parts are used for critical parts. So how about neither of us be silly. How about we agree that MIM parts are not as strong as billet parts. How about we agree that MIM parts break much easier than just about any other type of metal part. How about we even agree with the fact that MIM parts have a mediocre reputation due to failures. That all agreed upon now, why would you choose ANY brand that had MIM parts IF you had the opportunity to choose a brand that didn't utilize clearly inferior parts?

I think the Para guns are a good value. I think the Kimber guns are pretty slick. I don't want to carry either into a gunfight.

Then I got a couple more questions for you:

1.) I'm in love with kimber, however, which parts exactly on the kimber are MIM? Why not replace those MIM parts with higher quality parts?

2.) What other good companies that make 1911 without MIM parts that wont take a year to get in my hands and won't break the budget?

 

[melensdad]

1) I'm not an expert on exactly which parts are MIM on any particular brand but I'd suspect the grip safety, thumb safety and slide lock as the 3 most likely but clearly can vary by brand. Extractors and firing pins would be other possible MIM parts.

2) While not really an American made gun (its assembled here but uses quite a few imported parts) how about Springfield Armory as a good choice for a 1911?

I've owned both brands, a 14-45 Limited and currently a Kimber Classic Custom.
. . .
My brand preference comes from my own personal experience. My "all day, erry day" was just for the lulz...but if I were to choose between the two I'd go Kimber in a heart beat.

Understood, but why risk MIM parts at all? Why not simply carry a brand that has NO parts made out of MIM metal?

 

[Caleb]

1) I'm not an expert on exactly which parts are MIM on any particular brand but I'd suspect the grip safety, thumb safety and slide lock as the 3 most likely but clearly can vary by brand. Extractors and firing pins would be other possible MIM parts.

2) While not really an American made gun (its assembled here but uses quite a few imported parts) how about Springfield Armory as a good choice for a 1911?





Understood, but why risk MIM parts at all? Why not simply carry a brand that has NO parts made out of MIM metal?

Springfield armory has no MIM? Not sure why, but the kimber feels like the highest quality in my hands, even over SA, SW, or Remington. I was wondering if it'd be worth taking a kimber and replacing MIM parts with solid pieces.

Another thought, how about getting a good smith to build me a 1911? How much would I expect to pay to go this route? I'm not talking Wilson combat or nighthawk, way too much for my blood.