I took my new RIA VR82 20 gauge to the range the other day to shoot the first 125 of the manufacturer's recommended 250 round break-in regimen. When I went to clean the gun, I discovered that the gas block and piston and barrel exterior near the gas ports were coated with burnt powder residue that looked and felt like hardened black paint. It took me hours to remove the powder residue using Hoppe's No. 9 and a brass brush, and I wondered whether the residue caking problem might have been caused by my wiping the barrel and gas system parts down with Break Free CLP before first use. On the off-chance the CLP was the culprit, I decided to use Hornaday One Shot (a dry lube) instead.
After shooting the next 125 break-in rounds, I disassembled the gun again for cleaning. Although I found much less carbon caking/fouling on the barrel and gas system parts using One Shot, the residue I did find was a still a bear to remove using Hoppe's and a brush. I finally got frustrated and pulled out a tube of Flitz Polish, which quickly removed whatever residue Hoppe's could not.
Can anyone recommend a better solvent than Hoppe's to remove caked-on power residue? I've seen people recommend break cleaning fluid, but I'm not sure how that would interact with semi-auto o-rings.
Thanks.
After shooting the next 125 break-in rounds, I disassembled the gun again for cleaning. Although I found much less carbon caking/fouling on the barrel and gas system parts using One Shot, the residue I did find was a still a bear to remove using Hoppe's and a brush. I finally got frustrated and pulled out a tube of Flitz Polish, which quickly removed whatever residue Hoppe's could not.
Can anyone recommend a better solvent than Hoppe's to remove caked-on power residue? I've seen people recommend break cleaning fluid, but I'm not sure how that would interact with semi-auto o-rings.
Thanks.
