Want meat on the rear wheels to stay in the wells? Buy Dodge.
295/50/15
Slightly off topic, but certainly related...
I'm new to the world of BMW, but reading thru a lot of these pages, it appears there are a few well versed in that arena. My specific question is regards to a private shop in Noblesville. Does anyone have a good reason as to why I should avoid Reggie's? I recently obtained an E46, & before I go to any track days, the rear subframe reinforcement is my priority. Unfortunately, I lack welding skills & equipment to DIY at home. I've had no luck in finding shops around the Ft. Wayne area that are both familiar & confident with this common issue. Therefore, I have no problem driving down to Noblesville for the service. I've talked with one of the Nick's on the phone & I briefly visited the shop last fall, although I caught them on lunch & basically nobody was there. Personally, I'm feeling pretty good about it, but before I drop that stack of cash for this surgery, I'm seeking as much info as possible.
(As mentioned, I'm looking to have reinforcements welded in, not epoxy patched or foam filled)
You can take the pipe off the back of the cylinder head instead of removing the water pump. Only need two small gaskets. Its like a transfer pipe where the two stainless pipes connect in the rear. It will be tight but it is another option.
My c10 can hold 345’s on 12’s. My 275’s look tiny in thereMy ‘04 Mustang had 315’s
Want meat on the rear wheels to stay in the wells? Buy Dodge.
295/50/15
Got the 540 torn back down, decided to go ahead and just pull the water pump back off because it's a LOT easier to access than the crossover tube on the back of the heads. I had planned on just reusing the existing valley pan but someone has had it off before and tried siliconing everything back together and obviously didn't work. The PO said that the dealer had replaced the valve cover gaskets and done some other work on it but I hope that isn't true as they only tore it down and resealed it instead of using new gaskets. Another week or two and I should have this thing back on the road!
Got the 540 torn back down, decided to go ahead and just pull the water pump back off because it's a LOT easier to access than the crossover tube on the back of the heads. I had planned on just reusing the existing valley pan but someone has had it off before and tried siliconing everything back together and obviously didn't work. The PO said that the dealer had replaced the valve cover gaskets and done some other work on it but I hope that isn't true as they only tore it down and resealed it instead of using new gaskets. Another week or two and I should have this thing back on the road!
So are the cork valve cover gaskets supposed to be tightened more than normal? I put a new set on and just snugged em and they leaked like a sieve when I took it out for a drive. Smoked like an old train and throughly lubed my driveway and garage floor when I got back.[/Qtrouble
What kind of valve cover? Stamped steel ot cast aluminum? I only use cork gaskets with a steel insert. But to answer your question cork valve cover gaskets need to be tightened so they kind of form the the lip on the head. I would however recommend Felpro's silicone gasket with the steel insert if you have any more trouble.
So are the cork valve cover gaskets supposed to be tightened more than normal? I put a new set on and just snugged em and they leaked like a sieve when I took it out for a drive. Smoked like an old train and throughly lubed my driveway and garage floor when I got back.
They’re Edelbrock stamped steel covers
They’re Edelbrock stamped steel covers