What are you trying to do? Digital night vision is in this price range but performance is lacking compared to analog.Does anybody know the best night vision / thermal optics to use that is under $700?
Is it the Sightmark 4K Mini?
Thank you so much for all this great information. This will be my first night hunt in south Texas for javalina Will Boar.So the first thing is there is a difference between Night Vision and Thermal in their advantages and disadvantages, but there are also different types of Night Vision. All of this will depend on your mission and what you want to do with the device. Hunting yotes, night hiking, surveillance, concerned citizen prepping for an invasion from Mars?
When it comes to Night Vision, there is Digital and then there is Analog Intensifiers. Digital Night Vision is effectively an Infrared camera with an IR floodlight or flashlight. They can vary in quality from cheap "Spy Kids" toys to more advanced rifle scopes with huge flood lights mounted on them. Security cameras and trail cameras also fall under this category. Analog Intensifiers, which is what the military use, use some sort of science magic to intensify and amplify ambient light. The picture has no latency and the device doesn't give off an IR signature (unless you shine an IR illuminator, it will pick it up as well), and these are usually more desired.
Thermal is a different beast, and is usually a form of digital camera with special lens coatings to detect a specific wavelength of infrared, the frequency and wavelength emitted from thermal radiation. IMO Thermal is way better except for battery life and mounting options, as well as seeing through glass.
An entry level PVS-14 Analog Intensifier will cost in the ballpark of $3,500, and will go to around for $5,500 for a nice hand picked white phosphor tube. Dual tubes are somewhat more expensive and will typically be over $10,000. Also keep in mind that the mounting hardware is also expensive, unless you're okay with just the cheap plastic "skullcrushers" that come with the unit.
Thermals were typically more expensive than Night Vision, however there are some options that are lowering the entry price. An ATN Thor LT can be had for around $1,500, and gives a decent picture. I once saw a mouse @ 150 yards at 2:00 in the morning with one. Just keep in mind the battery will last maybe an hour and a half. All better options, like FLIR, EOTech, etc., will be somewhat more.
I don't have a lot of experience with Digital Night Vision. You can get Night Vision binoculars for around $300, and they are better than nothing, but are very limited in a hunting/concerned citizen applications. Not only that, it pretty much looks like a Broadway spotlight viewed from a distance by any other IR device.
Well, here is one article that really helped me decide on where to spend my money.I'm kind of torn on what to go with. Thermal or NV? I'm only going to use it for targets or zombie apocalypse, civil war which ever comes first. Mainly just for fun. Any suggestions? I've seen several AGM NV and Thermal in the $1000 dollar range. Is thermal really that much better then NV? Or vise versa?
Analog NV is MUCH more generally useful than thermal. Thermal can't really see in the dark the same way, and is not as useful for positive identification.I'm kind of torn on what to go with. Thermal or NV? I'm only going to use it for targets or zombie apocalypse, civil war which ever comes first. Mainly just for fun. Any suggestions? I've seen several AGM NV and Thermal in the $1000 dollar range. Is thermal really that much better then NV? Or vise versa?
That is a very interesting perspective. Makes me rethink my thermal snobbery.Analog NV is MUCH more generally useful than thermal. Thermal can't really see in the dark the same way, and is not as useful for positive identification.
NV plays better with magnification, since the intensifier tube has unlimited resolution. I can clumsily hold a standard binocular tube in front of my PVS7 and see fine. Shooting with magnified rifle scopes isn't as easy, though single or dual tubes can shoot passive through an unmagnified dot or holo.That is a very interesting perspective. Makes me rethink my thermal snobbery.
This is my philosophy when it comes to the different use cases for NV's and Thermals for hunting vs. potentially going against an adversary. Digital NV is great for hunting and other "civilian" uses, however I would not advise Digital for a potential force on force scenario (civil war, alien invasion, etc.). The reason is that a Digital NV typically relies on an IR floodlight, also known as Active Illumination, to be able to see in complete darkness. It also acts as a giant beacon for any IR capable device. Analog Intensifiers on the other hand are passive in their illumination technique. While they cannot see in complete darkness like Digital, they will not give any light signature (assuming your eye cup is properly seated).I'm kind of torn on what to go with. Thermal or NV? I'm only going to use it for targets or zombie apocalypse, civil war which ever comes first. Mainly just for fun. Any suggestions? I've seen several AGM NV and Thermal in the $1000 dollar range. Is thermal really that much better then NV? Or vise versa?
So not to be a Denny, but intensifier tubes do indeed have limited resolution, it's just handled differently than digital resolution. An analog intensifier gives an image of so many lines per millimeter. These images are made from hundreds of thousands of little fiber optics that flip the image right side up. Most have around 50 to 64 lp/mm (lines per millimeter), though that depends on the make and model.NV plays better with magnification, since the intensifier tube has unlimited resolution.
Interesting. Obviously it's much different image performance if you're intensifying an image after it passes through a magnifier, versus magnifying the image from an intensifier tube. I know there are some clip on NV devices meant to run in front of an existing scope on a rifle, but I'm not familiar with their actual performance or how they affect zeroing. The dedicated night scopes with intensifier tubes and magnification lenses all built in were more popular.So not to be a Denny, but intensifier tubes do indeed have limited resolution, it's just handled differently than digital resolution. An analog intensifier gives an image of so many lines per millimeter. These images are made from hundreds of thousands of little fiber optics that flip the image right side up. Most have around 50 to 64 lp/mm (lines per millimeter), though that depends on the make and model.
With that being said, that's still a heck of a lot of resolution, and magnification will definitely work better either in front or behind the intensifier.
I don't get zooming into an digital display either. A magnified optic before the intensifier would give magnification without any issues, however you have to take into account the drop in light intensity. That is at least when I tried it, the image was somewhat darker, though I may have just not been holding the binoculars right.Interesting. Obviously it's much different image performance if you're intensifying an image after it passes through a magnifier, versus magnifying the image from an intensifier tube. I know there are some clip on NV devices meant to run in front of an existing scope on a rifle, but I'm not familiar with their actual performance or how they affect zeroing. The dedicated night scopes with intensifier tubes and magnification lenses all built in were more popular.
Clip on thermal on the other hand just seems cludgey as hell. I do not understand using your ACOG or whatever to magnify an LCD screen with an off-center digital reticle theoretically zeroed using targets you can't see detail on.
Maybe if you're by yourself, your rifle has a bolted on LPVO or something, and you just want quick and dirty thermal capability without changing weapons? It's an awfully niche use case for what those things cost.I don't get zooming into an digital display either. A magnified optic before the intensifier would give magnification without any issues, however you have to take into account the drop in light intensity. That is at least when I tried it, the image was somewhat darker, though I may have just not been holding the binoculars right.
Haha, never thought of spottin naders at night with em.Another benefit for analog night vision, had a bad storm roll over tonight. The PVS-14 made it easier to see the clouds and our surroundings while we stood outside and looked for funnel clouds like a bunch of Midwesterners.