New or Used?

[Bosshoss]

Depends. I tend to get both, but learn what you are doing. If you're interested in revolvers, learn to function check a revolver here: Revolver Checkout by Jim March : Day At The Range

DO NOT use that article to check out a revolver some of the info is flat out WRONG and he doesn't cover other important checks.
Was written by someone that doesn't work on revolvers and seems to pass on things he has heard and not experienced.

 

[dirtybird]

 

[Bosshoss]

Keep in mind that many manufacturers will not warranty a used gun. I had a problem with a Shield and Smith and Wesson told me that since it was used (silly me for telling them) it was not covered under their warranty.

That at said I buy mostly used. Like BBI said, most people don't shoot their guns enough to significantly wear them. I bought a Glock before that still had the copper grease from the factory and looked like it had never been fired. There are deals out there. If you are only saving $20 or $30 by buying used, it just doesn't make sense to me though.

S&W usually will fix almost anything no charge. I even know a few that blew up guns with double charges or squibs and S&W fixed free.
Never tell them anything about buying new or used. Just tell them ( if they ask )you have had it a while and have a couple of them and you are sure you bought this one new. Some of their CS reps are more forgiving than others. If one says it is not covered just call back in a hour or so and talk to a different one and they usually will take care of you.

 

[BehindBlueI's]

DO NOT use that article to check out a revolver some of the info is flat out WRONG and he doesn't cover other important checks.
Was written by someone that doesn't work on revolvers and seems to pass on things he has heard and not experienced.

Well...don't leave us hanging. What's wrong and what should we be doing differently?

 

[cundiff5535]

Buying used will give you a cushion as you find what really fits you.
Buying a gun is not an automatic fix all. You need to run it before you can love it.

Kind of like the Girl you "Had" to take to the Prom. She was drop dead gorgeous. Well, you got the date but once you came to know her, well, not really all that nice.
Same with a gun. Looks fabulous. Then you buy it. Then you run it. Then you sell it because it just is not what you really want/need.

When you get close to buying there are many members here that would graciously allow you to run some of there guns if you show to be trustworthy and safe. Above all safe.
I am one of those people. Ask.

Yeah, I agree here...

Additionally, depending on what kind of pistol you are looking at... you can get a used gun for FAR under what you would be paying new. Do some reading, research, and look for a newer nice pistol at a nice discounted price!

For me, I am a custom and semi custom 1911 guy... I can buy a $4000 pistol in very close to new condition for $3000 or so... Ill gladly take the used pistol for a grad under what a new one would run me.

 

[Bosshoss]

Well...don't leave us hanging. What's wrong and what should we be doing differently?

His timing check is not a timing check at all but a cylinder alignment check and that can't accurately be checked with a flashlight. You need a range rod to accurately check cylinder alignment.
His barrel cylinder gap specs are not current with S&W specs and WAY to tight for any working revolver.
He acts like a gun that has had the side plate removed could be a problem when it is necessary for basic maintenance and doesn't mean that something is wrong inside. ( that is the way I read it anyway)
He doesn't say anything about push off either.

Here is my take on checking out a S&W revolver it doesn't cover everything but some of the basics.
I have posted this before and have sent it to several people who have asked me this before.
It pertains to S&W revolvers only and was in response to someone looking at a K frame gun but applies to all S&W revolvers.

A quick overview on a S&W revolver would be:
First the overall condition of the gun. Does it look like it was used alot, most revolvers are put up and shot a few times a year or carried a lot and shot very little.
The biggest problem on a K frame(the ones you are looking at are all K frames) I would be concerned about is flame cutting this is the area above the barrel on the top strap where the barrel and cylinder almost touch. This happens when a LOT of .357 or .38 +p stuff is fired. A little flame cutting is normal but if it is really deep I would pass on the gun as there are lots of better ones out there. This cannot be fixed.
Check barrel for bulges from firing a squib load and one right after it with the squib load still in the barrel.
Check the forcing cone for cracks.This is the part of barrel that sticks thru the frame and almost touches cylinder. Cracks will be fairly noticeable.
Ask the shop if you can dryfire the revolver if they won't let you dryfire it I would walk away.(unless it is a .22).
Check gun for empty and then see how much the cylinder moves front to rear should be almost no or very little movement.
Next check timing this is done by holding gun in normal position(not sideways) and slowly pull the trigger DA to the rear listen for a click( the cylinder locking up) right before the hammer falls.
Next is cylinder lock up, as before pull trigger double action and the when the hammer falls KEEP HOLDING the trigger all the way back. Now with other hand see how much side to side play the cylinder has it will move some they all do. But it should not have a lot of side to side play.
Last check is for push off. Pull the hammer back until single action notch catches and hold the hammer back.
Now push the hammer forward with your thumb.
If it pushes off with very little pressure the gun might need parts to correct it.
ALL S&W revolvers will push off if you REALLY push on the hammer so don't get carried away.
If it surprises you how easy it pushes off it is probably been worked on by someone and messed up.
A rule of thumb(PUN INTENDED) I use it should not take take less pressure to push the hammer forward than it does to pull the trigger in double action.
Everything above can be fixed EXCEPT the flame cutting. BUT will add to the cost of the revolver.

 

[BehindBlueI's]

His timing check is not a timing check at all but a cylinder alignment check and that can't accurately be checked with a flashlight. You need a range rod to accurately check cylinder alignment.
His barrel cylinder gap specs are not current with S&W specs and WAY to tight for any working revolver.
He acts like a gun that has had the side plate removed could be a problem when it is necessary for basic maintenance and doesn't mean that something is wrong inside. ( that is the way I read it anyway)
He doesn't say anything about push off either.

Here is my take on checking out a S&W revolver it doesn't cover everything but some of the basics.
I have posted this before and have sent it to several people who have asked me this before.
It pertains to S&W revolvers only and was in response to someone looking at a K frame gun but applies to all S&W revolvers.

A quick overview on a S&W revolver would be:
First the overall condition of the gun. Does it look like it was used alot, most revolvers are put up and shot a few times a year or carried a lot and shot very little.
The biggest problem on a K frame(the ones you are looking at are all K frames) I would be concerned about is flame cutting this is the area above the barrel on the top strap where the barrel and cylinder almost touch. This happens when a LOT of .357 or .38 +p stuff is fired. A little flame cutting is normal but if it is really deep I would pass on the gun as there are lots of better ones out there. This cannot be fixed.
Check barrel for bulges from firing a squib load and one right after it with the squib load still in the barrel.
Check the forcing cone for cracks.This is the part of barrel that sticks thru the frame and almost touches cylinder. Cracks will be fairly noticeable.
Ask the shop if you can dryfire the revolver if they won't let you dryfire it I would walk away.(unless it is a .22).
Check gun for empty and then see how much the cylinder moves front to rear should be almost no or very little movement.
Next check timing this is done by holding gun in normal position(not sideways) and slowly pull the trigger DA to the rear listen for a click( the cylinder locking up) right before the hammer falls.
Next is cylinder lock up, as before pull trigger double action and the when the hammer falls KEEP HOLDING the trigger all the way back. Now with other hand see how much side to side play the cylinder has it will move some they all do. But it should not have a lot of side to side play.
Last check is for push off. Pull the hammer back until single action notch catches and hold the hammer back.
Now push the hammer forward with your thumb.
If it pushes off with very little pressure the gun might need parts to correct it.
ALL S&W revolvers will push off if you REALLY push on the hammer so don't get carried away.
If it surprises you how easy it pushes off it is probably been worked on by someone and messed up.
A rule of thumb(PUN INTENDED) I use it should not take take less pressure to push the hammer forward than it does to pull the trigger in double action.
Everything above can be fixed EXCEPT the flame cutting. BUT will add to the cost of the revolver.

I thought that article I posted mentioned push off.

Ok, it does, but not in those terms:

Next, cock it, then grab the hammer and “wiggle it around” a bit. Not too hard, don’t bang on it, but give it a bit of up/down, left/right and circular action with finger off trigger and WATCH your muzzle direction.
You don’t want that hammer slipping off an overly polished sear. You REALLY don’t want that . It can be fixed by installing factory parts but that’ll take modest money (more for installation than hardware costs) and it’ll be big time unsafe until you do.

You're absolutely right on the forcing cone and flame cutting of the top strap, of course. I didn't realize the article didn't mention them.

I also appreciate the explanation on timing vs cylinder alignment. I do the flash light check just to make sure nothing is seriously out of whack, but will start doing the timing test as well.

As far as the screws thing, I agree with the article but maybe not for the reasons stated. If the screw head has that hump of metal where a too small screwdriver was used, it's scratched around the screw, etc. I figure there's a higher chance Bubba went at it. A guy who knows what he is doing and is careful will use the correct tools and not leave the screw head looking chewed up.

I also agree that if you can't dry fire it, move along. The article is more anal about that then I am.

 

[=Josh=]

When you get close to buying there are many members here that would graciously allow you to run some of there guns if you show to be trustworthy and safe. Above all safe.
I am one of those people. Ask.

Thanks. I might just take you up on that. I'm not far from Speedway to boot!

Here's a silly question. Are most handguns right-handed or universal? I'm left-handed, but do most things with my right. I think I'd prefer one that isn't hand specific as I don't know if I would be more comfortable firing from my left or right hand.

 

[churchmouse]

Thanks. I might just take you up on that. I'm not far from Speedway to boot!

Here's a silly question. Are most handguns right-handed or universal? I'm left-handed, but do most things with my right. I think I'd prefer one that isn't hand specific as I don't know if I would be more comfortable firing from my left or right hand.

Safety's and ejection ports tend to favor the right handed among us. An Ambi safety on a 1911 and the right round will let you go southpaw.

 

[=Josh=]

Sorry, but I'm still very much a novice. Is that a sub-compact? I'll likely be looking for something small and easier to conceal.

 

[churchmouse]

Sorry, but I'm still very much a novice. Is that a sub-compact? I'll likely be looking for something small and easier to conceal.

This is where you will need to do some research and try to shoot a few different platforms.
I can see you have much work to do Padowan..........

 

[BehindBlueI's]

Here's a silly question. Are most handguns right-handed or universal? I'm left-handed, but do most things with my right. I think I'd prefer one that isn't hand specific as I don't know if I would be more comfortable firing from my left or right hand.

Pistols tend to be set up to be ran right handed but can be ran left handed with some adjustments on the shooters part. The magazine release will be set up for a right handed person, but it can be swapped to lefty on some pistols. Slide releases tend to be set up for righties, but you can "slingshot" the slide instead of using the slide stop, so again no big deal. The biggest issue would be a thumb safety set up for the opposite hand, but I'd recommend steering clear of thumb safety pistols myself, particularly if you're going to shoot either handed.

The vast majority of revolvers are set up for righties. The right thumb activates the cylinder release and the cylinder swings to the left. I have no idea how wrong handed people reload revolvers. I imagine it requires tentacles and grape soda, but I could be wrong.

 

[IndyGlockMan]

Sorry, but I'm still very much a novice. Is that a sub-compact? I'll likely be looking for something small and easier to conceal.

For a first gun, I would not recommend a compact/easy to conceal piece.
Compact guns are more difficult to shoot than a full size and are really not appropriate for beginners IMHO.
Light weight = more felt recoil
Small grip = less control over the gun
You need a lot of practice to develop shooting skills and that's hard to do with a little gun beating you up every shot.

Consider a full size 9mm.
Big guns don't necessarily have big recoil, just the opposite.
That bigger frame and heavier weight absorbs recoil and makes controlling the gun easier and less punishing to shoot over and over and over again.

9mm is a good all around caliber to start with. Low recoil, lower cost, accurate, trusted, etc...
This will be your first gun... not your first and only gun...
They are like potato chips. can't have just one. They do multiply.

Consider a full size 9mm like a: Glock 17, Smith & Wesson M&P, Walther PPQ, CZ 75, Sig Sauer 226, etc...
Can't go wrong with any of those and if you don't like it, they would be easy to trade or re-sell and get something else.

I would recommend going up to Point Blank Range in Carmel and take their basic handgun class for $50. Money well spent and you will learn a lot.
They also have a lot guns to rent and try out before you buy.

Welcome to INGO

 

[=Josh=]

Thanks for the information and tips. One of my primary reasons for wanting to get a gun is for when I'm driving Uber. In that case, I am thinking that I will be concealing my pistol in a holster clipped onto the driver's door pocket so that it is out of view of any passenger in my car but still readily accessible to me should I need it. I've discussed this quite a bit in another thread, so I won't recount it all here. For now, *IF* I needed to draw my weapon, I envision my target would be less than 5 feet away and possibly at an awkward angle.

I I certainly plan to get plenty of training and try out several different weapons before making a purchase. This is going to take time and I fully understand that. I'm certainly not rushing out tomorrow to buy the first pistol I can get my hands on. I'm patient and I know that this isn't a toy to be taken lightly.

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

I fire everything left handed by default, mostly because of eye dominance, which is something you'll want to check out as well. I find most of the right handed pistols are readily operated with the left hand; mag release with the trigger or middle finger depending how high up it is in the frame, slide release with the trigger finger. Frame safety is a mixed bag, some are very stiff or the lever small. I have big enough hands I can keep a clamp grip on a double stack .45 and run it with my left thumb, but my carry is a 1911 type and I don't use the frame safety anyway, unless I'm letting it out of my hand.

I've bought things new and used, get some experience what to look for and most of the time you won't have a problem. I've bought a couple of new ones that just turned out to be little turds, but I couldn't necessarily have known until I tried to use them. I've bought obviously used ones that are sweet after a little clean and lube. I've bought used where examine as I might with the naked eye, I couldn't tell them from new.

There's a phenomenon in engineering called the "bathtub curve" which describes part failures. You start out with infant mortality failures, parts that are weak or defective and fail quickly, then settle into a low failure rate until wear starts mattering. If you plot failure rates over time, you get a curve resembling the cross section of a bathtub. This is an advantage of one with some use on it.

Then you get into the philosophy of actually using the thing, but baby steps. Hey, is there a rule in uber against picking someone up in a GT Mustang and doing a burnout on takeoff? I'd like to see the looks on their faces.

 

[Expat]

So you plan on off body carry? When you are helping someone into the back seat or luggage in trunk, etc. you will be unarmed, right? Okay with that?
If I was going to do as you plan, I would have another pistol/revolver in an ankle holster. Easy to get to while driving and still on your body when out of the vehicle. I carry a Smith and Wesson 442 in a Galco Ankle Glove regularly.

 

[Hellhound1055]

Buy used, from a gun store you can trust. Also buy a good brand. (Bought my 228 used and will probably carry it for a very long time). All the firearms I own minus my 590a1 has been used.

 

[BehindBlueI's]

Thanks for the information and tips. One of my primary reasons for wanting to get a gun is for when I'm driving Uber. In that case, I am thinking that I will be concealing my pistol in a holster clipped onto the driver's door pocket so that it is out of view of any passenger in my car but still readily accessible to me should I need it. I've discussed this quite a bit in another thread, so I won't recount it all here. For now, *IF* I needed to draw my weapon, I envision my target would be less than 5 feet away and possibly at an awkward angle.

I I certainly plan to get plenty of training and try out several different weapons before making a purchase. This is going to take time and I fully understand that. I'm certainly not rushing out tomorrow to buy the first pistol I can get my hands on. I'm patient and I know that this isn't a toy to be taken lightly.

There are plenty of smaller and easier to conceal pistols that are easy to shoot. The market is awash with quality compacts and subcompacts. Even Glock has finally realized people want a single stack 9mm. My wife shoots a S&W Shield better than a double stack Glock, as it fits her hand better. The Shield is my generic "I don't know anything about you" recommendation of where to start for a carry gun, but there are a lot of good options. For inside the car and possibly awkward angles, a revolver is worth looking in to. I don't normally recommend snubby revolvers for beginners, but when you may have to shoot from an awkward angle limp-wristing becomes more of a concern and snagging on the seat, seat belt, etc can become a concern. I'd look at the LCR as well.

 

[prescut]

Learn, then
Test, then
Buy, then
Practice.

I think the guys said it all very well.

 

[snowwalker]

One thing I did not see, i could have missed it, is that you should learn to shoot with 'both' your right hand and your left hand. Another is that a snub nosed revolver needs a lot shooting time because of the short sight radius and more recoil when compared to a semi-auto. Learn about 'trigger control' so you won't flinch when firing your handgun, it should be so you can run it smooth and on target.