Need help from the mechanically inclined on my Jeep

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  • phylodog

    Grandmaster
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    I didn't clean any of the grease out of the U joint but it didn't seem it was excessive. I didn't clean any off the other two either but they went on pretty easily with the clamp.

    I hate the idea of pulling the drive shaft again, getting it unbolted from the T case is a pain with the skid plate in the way. If I disconnect the straps from the front U joint, can I just pull the front half of the shaft off? The boot is gone, has been for a few years now. I pulled out on it when I had it off of the jeep but there was a bit of a vacuum and it pulled itself back on so I didn't want to force it. If it just pulls off I'll buy a replacement boot and install it while I've got it off.
     

    17 squirrel

    Shooter
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    Tranny has to come out to replace the throwout bearing..
    If your going to do that, you are damn near there,
    I would pull off the bell housing and replace the clutch and pressure plate..
     

    phylodog

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    I'm hoping I won't have to go that far. I've never pulled an engine or a transmission. While I enjoy wrenching I'm not sure my limited experience has prepared me for it and I sure don't feel like paying for a year of college for someone else's kid.
     

    halfmileharry

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    I'm hoping I won't have to go that far. I've never pulled an engine or a transmission. While I enjoy wrenching I'm not sure my limited experience has prepared me for it and I sure don't feel like paying for a year of college for someone else's kid.

    TIme for an INGO..."Beer, clutch, and shoot"
     

    phylodog

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    If I disconnect the straps from the front U joint, can I just pull the front half of the shaft off? The boot is gone, has been for a few years now. I pulled out on it when I had it off of the jeep but there was a bit of a vacuum and it pulled itself back on so I didn't want to force it. If it just pulls off I'll buy a replacement boot and install it while I've got it off.

    Can anyone comment on this? I don't want to yank it off and end up with a problem, I know there are needle bearings in there.
     

    printcraft

    INGO Clown
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    Can anyone comment on this? I don't want to yank it off and end up with a problem, I know there are needle bearings in there.

    I "think" its just a splined shaft and receiver on the two sections, I don't believe there are any needle bearing inside of the driveshaft.
    They will pull apart, especially with boot gone, they are held together in the vehicle because there is no place for them to go when installed.
    Having said that, of all the crap I have worked on, I have never taken one apart.
     

    17 squirrel

    Shooter
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    I "think" its just a splined shaft and receiver on the two sections, I don't believe there are any needle bearing inside of the driveshaft.
    They will pull apart, especially with boot gone, they are held together in the vehicle because there is no place for them to go when installed.
    Having said that, of all the crap I have worked on, I have never taken one apart.

    Yep.. I have never seen a splined shaft have needles in it.. The vacuum is caused by the splined shaft being sealed with grease.. When you pull it apart the grease seals it up.. Just pull it apart.

    Did you get the U joint all the way in ??
     

    phylodog

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    Not yet. I was waiting to see if I could just disconnect the front and pull the shaft off rather than pulling the whole thing.
     

    Arthur Dent

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    Can anyone comment on this? I don't want to yank it off and end up with a problem, I know there are needle bearings in there.

    Unless it has a master spline, which would be two splines connected to each other, you'll want to mark how it lines up. Otherwise you will throw off the balance and create some more problems. The master spline will only let the two halves go together one way.
     

    phylodog

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    Ok, mystery solved. I was able to get the front half of the shaft marked and pulled off and was also able to get the U joint back out of the yoke and look it over like I should have before I started. This one does use the inside clips and I didn't even notice them in the baggie that came with the U joint. It's installed properly now and once I had it buttoned up I twisted the front drive shaft to check for play again. As suggested up thread, the front driver's side axle U joint is bad so it looks like I get to start another new adventure as I've not replaced one of these before.



    Not sure how well you can see it, I was having trouble holding the phone steady but there is definite movement in the U joint. I couldn't see any movement on the passenger's side but I assume it is a good idea to replace it also while I'm at it.

    I've watched a few Youtube videos and it doesn't appear to be anything terribly difficult. I heard someone suggest that on some axles you have to pull the diff cover and remove clips to get the axle shafts out. I've got D44 axles on this one (2005 Rubicon), does anyone happen to know if that is the case for this year and model? I'm hoping it won't be necessary but it isn't the end of the world if it is. I think I'll replace the axle U joints and drive it to see what strange and lovely sounds remain.

    Thanks for all of the help thus far. I'll probably need more before the fun ends.
     

    Rookie

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    Leave the diff cover on. You need a 36 mm socket. Or a 32. Can't remember off hand and I'm not out in my garage. Have someone stand on the brakes when you break the nut loose.

    The clips are used on Dana 35 axles.
     

    phylodog

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    That's good news! Thanks!!

    I've got the sockets, big set I bought from HF. Can I use an impact to remove the nuts or is a breaker bar better?
     

    rosejm

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    You can try the impact, but those big axle nuts are usually on there too tight for that. You'll probably need some more leverage to get them loose.

    Oh, and those are often nylock nuts which are technically single-use. IANAL & YMMV, but I've reused them once before. Just know that if they do come loose, it's likely to take the entire wheel/hub/rotor/caliper assembly with it.
     

    phylodog

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    I haven't tore into it yet but from what I've seen in Youtube videos I expect the nuts to be held in place by a collar and cotter pin. Hopefully that is the case.
     

    Rookie

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    Once you remove the nut on the axle shaft, you'll need to pull the hub. Remove the bolts from the rear and you'll probably need a bfh to break them loose.
     

    phylodog

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    I'm going to go ahead and coat everything down well with some penetrating oil tomorrow morning. I'll have several days before I attack it so it'll have time to work. Hopefully I can get everything broken free without too much trouble. The Jeep lives a charmed life being parked in the garage almost all of the time so the corrosion isn't too bad.
     
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