Need help from the mechanically inclined on my Jeep

[17 squirrel]

They will have clips that go inside the yoke..

 

[phylodog]

Ok, next question. If someone has a reliable source where I could find out, without a doubt, which F'N U joint I need for the front drive shaft where it connects to the front axle pinion I would be very much appreciative. I thought the rebuild kit I bought included one, I was wrong. I researched a few websites and thought I had the right part number, once again I was wrong. Amazon delivered one today which does not fit, the caps are too small to press into the drive shaft. (*&^@(*&^$(#*^(*^@$)(@&(*@^$&@#^!@!(*!&$)(@!&)#(&#)(*&(*!^$)!(&)(#&)#

2005 Wrangler Rubicon

 

[MrHank]

Call these guys.

Jeep Parts, Jeep Accessories for Wrangler, CJ, Cherokee - Quadratec

 

[GLOCKMAN23C]

Ok, next question. If someone has a reliable source where I could find out, without a doubt, which F'N U joint I need for the front drive shaft where it connects to the front axle pinion I would be very much appreciative. I thought the rebuild kit I bought included one, I was wrong. I researched a few websites and thought I had the right part number, once again I was wrong. Amazon delivered one today which does not fit, the caps are too small to press into the drive shaft. (*&^@(*&^$(#*^(*^@$)(@&(*@^$&@#^!@!(*!&$)(@!&)#(&#)(*&(*!^$)!(&)(#&)#

2005 Wrangler Rubicon

I can look tomorrow morning when I get to work.

 

[padawan]

I like to use rockauto.com with their parts lookup then shop around once I know I have the correct pn.

Nice vid Phylo.

 

[MrPeabody]

I like to use rockauto.com with their parts lookup then shop around once I know I have the correct pn.

Nice vid Phylo.

Plus one on Rockauto. I have always got the correct part needed, and if there was a question regarding the correct part, there were always on it. Best prices, good selection, and fast delivery. Amazon not so much on parts.

 

[Crbn79]

Plus one on Rockauto. I have always got the correct part needed, and if there was a question regarding the correct part, there were always on it. Best prices, good selection, and fast delivery. Amazon not so much on parts.

Rockauto sells their parts on amazon. Free prime vs the expensive shipping of rockauto. It's the best of both worlds. Get the part numbers on rockauto, search on amazon and buy from rockauto. I used to be a 95% RA guy.

 

[phylodog]

Unfortunately it doesn't look like RA carries Spicer U Joints. I've always used them to replace OEM and I've never had to replace one once I installed it.

 

[phylodog]

Ok, I might be an idiot but I'm gonna blame it on the pain meds I've been taking. I did end up with the correct U Joint. I failed to realize that the U Joint had two different sized caps on it. I got it installed but the caps for the drift shaft yoke don't seat deep enough for clips to be installed. They're basically a press fit and they sit about the same depth as the OEM. I'm going to keep an eye one them but it makes me a bit nervous, the plastic that was injected to hold the OEM caps in place is no longer there, not sure what I could do to replace it.

The really good news is that the problem was not resolved by rebuilding the front shaft. I still have the chirping once everything is warmed up and it sounds like its coming from the center of the vehicle. I don't think the rear shaft is factory, IIRC it is a Tom Woods shaft but I'm trying to verify that. The chirping doesn't seem to be present under load, it becomes noticeable when I let off the gas. I'm hoping a rear shaft rebuild will take care of it, I really don't want to pay for a repair if I can avoid it but who does? Frustrating.....

 

[GLOCKMAN23C]

Ok, I might be an idiot but I'm gonna blame it on the pain meds I've been taking. I did end up with the correct U Joint. I failed to realize that the U Joint had two different sized caps on it. I got it installed but the caps for the drift shaft yoke don't seat deep enough for clips to be installed. They're basically a press fit and they sit about the same depth as the OEM. I'm going to keep an eye one them but it makes me a bit nervous, the plastic that was injected to hold the OEM caps in place is no longer there, not sure what I could do to replace it.

The really good news is that the problem was not resolved by rebuilding the front shaft. I still have the chirping once everything is warmed up and it sounds like its coming from the center of the vehicle. I don't think the rear shaft is factory, IIRC it is a Tom Woods shaft but I'm trying to verify that. The chirping doesn't seem to be present under load, it becomes noticeable when I let off the gas. I'm hoping a rear shaft rebuild will take care of it, I really don't want to pay for a repair if I can avoid it but who does? Frustrating.....

Something is amiss here...the clips should be in there. Centrifugal force will eventually force them out and cause vibration or worse. If avoidable I wouldn't drive it until they're installed propery.

Out of curiosity is this a manual or automatic?

 

[phylodog]

Something is amiss here...the clips should be in there. Centrifugal force will eventually force them out and cause vibration or worse. If avoidable I wouldn't drive it until they're installed propery.

Out of curiosity is this a manual or automatic?

6 speed manual. There is no way the clips are getting installed with the U joint I have. The caps are full seated and still stick out above the outside edge of the yoke 1/16". The big issue is that if this isn't the correct joint I don't think I can get it out of the yoke. There isn't enough material to get a hold of to pull the caps back off and there is no pressing from the other side. They're tight.

 

[halfmileharry]

6 speed manual. There is no way the clips are getting installed with the U joint I have. The caps are full seated and still stick out above the outside edge of the yoke 1/16". The big issue is that if this isn't the correct joint I don't think I can get it out of the yoke. There isn't enough material to get a hold of to pull the caps back off and there is no pressing from the other side. They're tight.

You sure the clips don't go on the inside of the U-Joint instead of the outside of the caps?
Make sure your front drive axle and transfer case are full on fluids. That may be your chirping

 

[phylodog]

I just went and looked again and it appears there is still room for the caps to be pressed in farther on the joint. I may have to get a torch on the toke to loosen it up a bit and put the impact on the big ball joint clamp to get them to fully seat.

 

[printcraft]

The clips "should" go on the inside edge.
Do you have a big bench vise?
Those work well to give you the extra umph over the c clamp.

 

[eldirector]

If that doesn't do it, you are welcome to some out and use my press. It has replaced many a u-joint.

I'll bet that "chirping" is your clutch. Likely the throw-out bearing. I've replaced a few of those, too. Does it still chirp in neutral with the clutch in and coasting?

 

[17 squirrel]

Are you sure there is NO needle bearings under one of the caps ??????????
That will quickly stop the cap from seating...
The rubber seal should seat on the cap the joint itself.. If it doesn't... There's your problem sir..

 

[phylodog]

If that doesn't do it, you are welcome to some out and use my press. It has replaced many a u-joint.

I'll bet that "chirping" is your clutch. Likely the throw-out bearing. I've replaced a few of those, too. Does it still chirp in neutral with the clutch in and coasting?

I didn't check for that, just noticed it chirping when I was off the gas. I've had a faint chirping since we bought the Jeep in 09 which I attributed to the throw out bearing but it's never gotten any worse. How difficult is the throw out bearing to replace? Does it involve enough work that it would make sense to replace the clutch while you're in there?

I'm pretty sure I don't have a needle bearing out of place, I'm pretty careful to avoid jarring them loose when I install them U joints.

 

[eldirector]

I didn't check for that, just noticed it chirping when I was off the gas. I've had a faint chirping since we bought the Jeep in 09 which I attributed to the throw out bearing but it's never gotten any worse. How difficult is the throw out bearing to replace? Does it involve enough work that it would make sense to replace the clutch while you're in there?

IMHO, yes. It is notably more $$$, but pulling the trans is enough of a pain to make it worth it. I'm guessing you have a few miles on it, too.

I'd make sure it is REALLY the throwout/clutch though. Any way to get a camera/mic under there? Got a go-pro?

I've been chasing an intermittent noise in my auto trans for a couple of years now. By the time I narrowed it down to something inside the bellhousing, it stopped. Frustrating, as I KNOW the next noise it makes may be its last.

 

[phylodog]

I've got a GoPro but I haven't used it in a long time, not sure if it even works lol. I've got a just under 70k on the Rubi now. I haven't noticed any issues with the clutch or shifting other than it being finicky about shifting from 1st to 2nd but its done that since the day we bought it.

 

[GLOCKMAN23C]

I just went and looked again and it appears there is still room for the caps to be pressed in farther on the joint. I may have to get a torch on the toke to loosen it up a bit and put the impact on the big ball joint clamp to get them to fully seat.

Did you clean the extra goo out of the joint? Often the press too is inadequate to fully press the joint into the yoke. I use a nut on the bottom to countersink one side, then place the the lock ring and pound the joint back into place. Do not pound on the yoke ear, only on the back side. This will require a substantial hammer and some patience. If you want some help, PM me, I'll be glad to lend a hand.