I did just that: don't reload! Use factory ammunition. That is the right direction in this case.
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Learning to reload..the hard way!
- Thread starter Sirshredalot
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I did just that: don't reload! Use factory ammunition. That is the right direction in this case.
You very well may be right there...Bill.
Well at least he posted here here before pulled the trigger on one of those.
I'm a long ways from Muncie. Is there anyone up there that can get over there and help him out, maybe loan him a spare single stage press and get some scales to learn the fundementals with?
I'm a long ways from Muncie. Is there anyone up there that can get over there and help him out, maybe loan him a spare single stage press and get some scales to learn the fundementals with?
blamecharles
Master
So i unboxed my lee pro 1000 and got me some other goodies to go along with it....And Im at about a 50/50 rate of success.
Here are the pics.....Im pretty sure Ive got some LIGHT powder loads in a couple of them...I pulled each round out to inspect it before adding a bullet...I dont have a scale.
Hopefully it gets easier...Im going to have to call lee sometime to figure out their goofy and vague instructions....I cant tell what to lube on the press and what to leave dry....
Crushed a few case...got a primer sideways, got a primer half seated, missed a few primers, over pressed a bullet...etc.etc.etc.
Got a bunch pf titegroup EVRYWHERE!
Growing pains, ignorance, or faulty equipment?
Been a mechanic since I was 15 and Im baffled.
God bless
-Shred.
OP here is a link to some videos i found that will help make sense. The guy is using a RCBS single stage but it may help you.
I beg to differ: This is "proof" that some people jump into things a little too quickly and need instruction and/or guidance from someone with experience and patience. What they don't need is a third party passing judgement on them with limited information and absolutely no intention of helping them load safely.
Don't you run a reloading CLASS? Wouldn't it be a far better response for you to say, "Come on up and take one of my classes in Ft. Wayne. I'll help you get things sorted out so the ammo you make is top-notch!" ??
The reloading community is typically inclusive...why would you be so quick to condemn someone making their first attempt at reloading and dismiss anyone as being unfit to do so?
Aszedrigan will get you on the right track! It worked for me!! I have the LEE 1000 also,works great! Spend a little cash on a class or 2 and you wont waste your money on messing up good brass. (Work smart)
jblomenberg16
Grandmaster
I am loading with the Lee 1000 as well. The primer feeding is the hardest thing to get right. I suggest you run a few hundred cases through without charging powder and loading bullets to start to get the "feel" for what a good and bad primer feels like. Sometimes it takes a bit of time for the press to break in too.
A few things that helped me improve priming:
1) Make sure the small spring that holds tension on the case is tight to the shell holder. If not the case won't be centered above the priming pin and primer, and you will get problems and sideways primers.
2) Make sure you always have a full primer tray. The added weight of the other primers helps feed them into the chute.
3) Make sure the shell holder and primer area are clean. You mentioned a lot of Titegroup has spilled. That can gum up the works and also give you some trouble.
A few things that helped me improve priming:
1) Make sure the small spring that holds tension on the case is tight to the shell holder. If not the case won't be centered above the priming pin and primer, and you will get problems and sideways primers.
2) Make sure you always have a full primer tray. The added weight of the other primers helps feed them into the chute.
3) Make sure the shell holder and primer area are clean. You mentioned a lot of Titegroup has spilled. That can gum up the works and also give you some trouble.
Electronrider
Sharpshooter
I beg to differ: This is "proof" that some people jump into things a little too quickly and need instruction and/or guidance from someone with experience and patience. What they don't need is a third party passing judgement on them with limited information and absolutely no intention of helping them load safely.
Don't you run a reloading CLASS? Wouldn't it be a far better response for you to say, "Come on up and take one of my classes in Ft. Wayne. I'll help you get things sorted out so the ammo you make is top-notch!" ??
The reloading community is typically inclusive...why would you be so quick to condemn someone making their first attempt at reloading and dismiss anyone as being unfit to do so?
I have been sitting in front of my computer trying to compose a resonse to this entire thread that does not involve me going on a 3 page rant about irresponsibility, stupidity, and the dangers of someone actually reloading in this manner. I have been unable to accomplish said feat.
So I will simply advise the OP of this: Go out and purchase a proper reloading manual. In every single one I have read, there is a substantial section devoted to the basics of relaoding. Better yet, go purchase the book " The ABC's of reloading". read these books before putting your hands on that press again. please.
ETA: deleted rant on safety and responsible actions, etc. Good luck OP.
Bill, I have "red" equipment, but not a progressive. I run a Lee 4hole turret press, but i still load in stages.
My advice to the OP would be to stop using the progressive, get a really cheap single stage to figure out just what you're doing, and READ A REAL BOOK ON RELOADING before you do anything else.
Doing small batches on a single stage will give you confidence, usable ammo, and the knowledge you need to move up to the progressive.
Check, double-check, and then triple-check your work. I visually inspect the powder I throw in every case under a light. I keep batches of 50 cases in a loading block. I prime thousands of cases at a time and store them for loading.
When I create ammunition, I'm basicaly pulling a sized, cleaned, primed case from a bucket, flaring it, charging it, and putting it in a loading block with 49 of its friends. Then I put them back in the press after inspecting the charge, seat and crimp a bullet, check OAL, and place in storage boxes.
I've seen my powder measure under-charge cases from time to time. It's unpredictable, and the only way for me to be sure is to check EACH CASE. My fingers, face and guns are worth it to me.
Just my .02, and I hope you have better luck at this. It's all fun and games until it isn't....
My advice to the OP would be to stop using the progressive, get a really cheap single stage to figure out just what you're doing, and READ A REAL BOOK ON RELOADING before you do anything else.
Doing small batches on a single stage will give you confidence, usable ammo, and the knowledge you need to move up to the progressive.
Check, double-check, and then triple-check your work. I visually inspect the powder I throw in every case under a light. I keep batches of 50 cases in a loading block. I prime thousands of cases at a time and store them for loading.
When I create ammunition, I'm basicaly pulling a sized, cleaned, primed case from a bucket, flaring it, charging it, and putting it in a loading block with 49 of its friends. Then I put them back in the press after inspecting the charge, seat and crimp a bullet, check OAL, and place in storage boxes.
I've seen my powder measure under-charge cases from time to time. It's unpredictable, and the only way for me to be sure is to check EACH CASE. My fingers, face and guns are worth it to me.
Just my .02, and I hope you have better luck at this. It's all fun and games until it isn't....
One reason I started with a single stage press. I wanted to take my time and learn the steps using a straight forward simple piece of equipment. It's like anything else in life. You would not hand a child a college level book and expect them to read it would you?
Again, I think the 15 years of mechanic experience gave you some unwarranted confidence when it comes to reloading.
Don't take the negative comments to heart... these people don't know you... I'm sure you can learn to load safely, as long as you have a patient side.
Slowing down is the key. The fact that you're obviously willing to learn, and started this thread is a good sign, as well as the fact that you stopped what you were doing when you had problems (that must be the mechanic side of you kicking in- be proud of that). Don't let the nay-Sayers discourage you from asking for help in the future. When they saw what you had done (like the rest of us) it made us very concerned for your safety. So concerned, that some people didn't express it well. Now, after saying that, if you do feel you have an impatient side, cutting-corners... then you will want to sell what reloading equipment you have. ...if not for the sake of your health, then for those who care about you. The way you approached this problem leads me to believe that you have the ability to learn, and slow-down.
Some rules I have for myself when reloading are to never reload if I'm distracted, have had the occasional drink or taken some meds that effect my ability to concentrate (I have MS, so this one is especially important to me- ie. muscle relaxers), no wildcat loads, always get multiple load data for each load (and stick to the bottom 80% of the correlated load data), never time myself while loading- it's not a race, above all go slow & safe.
Another idea for you- I take my "ABC's of Reloading" book with me on occasion when going to doctors appointments, taking my son to things that give me time to read... I'll never stop reading about reloading. The more you load, and reread your books, the more information you'll take away from it, and the better loads you'll develop.
Don't take the negative comments to heart... these people don't know you... I'm sure you can learn to load safely, as long as you have a patient side.
Slowing down is the key. The fact that you're obviously willing to learn, and started this thread is a good sign, as well as the fact that you stopped what you were doing when you had problems (that must be the mechanic side of you kicking in- be proud of that). Don't let the nay-Sayers discourage you from asking for help in the future. When they saw what you had done (like the rest of us) it made us very concerned for your safety. So concerned, that some people didn't express it well. Now, after saying that, if you do feel you have an impatient side, cutting-corners... then you will want to sell what reloading equipment you have. ...if not for the sake of your health, then for those who care about you. The way you approached this problem leads me to believe that you have the ability to learn, and slow-down.
Some rules I have for myself when reloading are to never reload if I'm distracted, have had the occasional drink or taken some meds that effect my ability to concentrate (I have MS, so this one is especially important to me- ie. muscle relaxers), no wildcat loads, always get multiple load data for each load (and stick to the bottom 80% of the correlated load data), never time myself while loading- it's not a race, above all go slow & safe.
Another idea for you- I take my "ABC's of Reloading" book with me on occasion when going to doctors appointments, taking my son to things that give me time to read... I'll never stop reading about reloading. The more you load, and reread your books, the more information you'll take away from it, and the better loads you'll develop.
OP - can you post a few pictures of the cars you have worked on just for comparison
I'm kidding. But as everyone has said - man you need to get a scale even a cheap beam scale. Explosives are nothing to guess at. You have all the components to seriously hurt yourself. Please get a few more necessary pieces of equipment before proceeding.
I'm kidding. But as everyone has said - man you need to get a scale even a cheap beam scale. Explosives are nothing to guess at. You have all the components to seriously hurt yourself. Please get a few more necessary pieces of equipment before proceeding.
You may want to run the cycle without any cases and watch what happens. Make sure the shell plate is in position before the primer starts to pass through the plate. If the timing is off the primer may be moved slightly. Then it will not be centered on primer pocket. Without a case in the machine a primer should not be released. You can figure out the primer release pretty easily. Remove the primer once you finish the stroke.
Make sure you have good primer pockets - if the primers were originally crimped in place you will need to condition your brass. Military brass may be crimped. S&B seems tighter than some other brass.
If you get a shallow primer stroke or partial stroke, the press can give a light charge on the next case. I always look into the case and make sure the charge looks the same from case to case before I position and seat the bullet. I fit doesn't look right or the press gave me a problem I remove at the bullet seating station and leave it to be finished on my single stage press.
The machine does not like to be forced it tends to knock it out of time. Also order some of the ratchet pieces that slide on shaft of the machine. Occasionally they will get off time and be distorted.
I couldn't tell what cartridge you were loading - 40 45? I don't like the fit of the 9mm shell plate. It seems to cause more problems with failing to line up with the sizer die. The shell plate worked much better with the 40 cartridge. I really can not comment on the 45 shell plate.
The loading manuals will give you a lot of help learning the process . The literature Lee provided will give you some powder volume data. I still like to weigh my charges when I set up and I check it during the run.
You may be able to find a deal on a Lee single stage press and a Lee manual for a reasonable price. I load my maximum charges on a single stage press so It will not be a bad investment.
Make sure you have good primer pockets - if the primers were originally crimped in place you will need to condition your brass. Military brass may be crimped. S&B seems tighter than some other brass.
If you get a shallow primer stroke or partial stroke, the press can give a light charge on the next case. I always look into the case and make sure the charge looks the same from case to case before I position and seat the bullet. I fit doesn't look right or the press gave me a problem I remove at the bullet seating station and leave it to be finished on my single stage press.
The machine does not like to be forced it tends to knock it out of time. Also order some of the ratchet pieces that slide on shaft of the machine. Occasionally they will get off time and be distorted.
I couldn't tell what cartridge you were loading - 40 45? I don't like the fit of the 9mm shell plate. It seems to cause more problems with failing to line up with the sizer die. The shell plate worked much better with the 40 cartridge. I really can not comment on the 45 shell plate.
The loading manuals will give you a lot of help learning the process . The literature Lee provided will give you some powder volume data. I still like to weigh my charges when I set up and I check it during the run.
You may be able to find a deal on a Lee single stage press and a Lee manual for a reasonable price. I load my maximum charges on a single stage press so It will not be a bad investment.
Shred,
If you venture up toward Fort Wayne in near future, fire me a PM.
I wouldn't have any clue on the pro 1000 ( have never even seen one) , but I could sit you in front of either a RockChucker or Lee turret and we could run a few through so you will see what the end product should look like.
Heck, I bet I could find a extra manual and scale to get you started. I have had this Lee safety scale for years and have never tried it and probably never will.
If you venture up toward Fort Wayne in near future, fire me a PM.
I wouldn't have any clue on the pro 1000 ( have never even seen one) , but I could sit you in front of either a RockChucker or Lee turret and we could run a few through so you will see what the end product should look like.
Heck, I bet I could find a extra manual and scale to get you started. I have had this Lee safety scale for years and have never tried it and probably never will.
singlestacksig
Master
is this a progressive press?
1. get a scale
2. remove the dies & use only one station at a time..
till you learn what each step does & how to adjust the dies to do that step correctly..
you are trying to do 5 steps at once when you have all the dies in .. so one adjusted worng can mess with the others..
ALWAYS make sure you have moved the arm the full stroke.. short stroking will cause primers to not seat all the way..
if you can not move the arm all the way up to the stops, you have a die adjusted to far down..
again, get a scale before you do anything more .. and a bullet puller to pull these rounds.. they are not safe to shoot..
1. get a scale
2. remove the dies & use only one station at a time..
till you learn what each step does & how to adjust the dies to do that step correctly..
you are trying to do 5 steps at once when you have all the dies in .. so one adjusted worng can mess with the others..
ALWAYS make sure you have moved the arm the full stroke.. short stroking will cause primers to not seat all the way..
if you can not move the arm all the way up to the stops, you have a die adjusted to far down..
again, get a scale before you do anything more .. and a bullet puller to pull these rounds.. they are not safe to shoot..
tstormdrums
Plinker
Been reloading for 20+ years and more tan willing to help you out or answer any questions. Shoot me a PM I am not that far away from you (Kokomo Area)
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jblomenberg16
Grandmaster
Friendly advice...don't put your full e-mail on a public forum.
Most often it is best to substitute @ with "at" and .com with "dot com". A legit reader will get the point, but a spammer looking for e-mails addresses will skip right over it.
I would ask you how you set up your powder measure originally judging from the photos that the expanded die is not deep enough and you are short stroking the press that is the reason you have the high primers seating die appears to be way too deep I would go back to a single stage press and get the repetition down and the speed will come work way into the progressive press probably not what you want to hear but as I'm sure you're aware this hobby can be very dangerous
mydoghasfleas
Expert
Dont let the mechanic thing let you get over confident. You need to understand how the parts work both together, and individualy on a car to diagnose it right? Seems to me that in reloading you need to fully understand each stage, what it does, why it does it and the dangers to look out for in each step along the way. You should also try to understand how your equipment functions to accomplish these stages. I am just getting into reloading myself, and I build race cars, fabricate many of my own parts and drive them. But like with the racing, you have to take your time and compleatly understand the process of getting to that end result safely. Take your time and enjoy the ride.
P.S. Make sure of the recipies you are using as stated in other posts. And dont substitute primers (especialy magnums instead of) or powders.
Like I said, I am new but I am sure anyone of these guys can/will/should correct me if Im wrong, but many of them have been doing it for so long they may have forgotten some of the hurdles of just getting started.
P.S. Make sure of the recipies you are using as stated in other posts. And dont substitute primers (especialy magnums instead of) or powders.
Like I said, I am new but I am sure anyone of these guys can/will/should correct me if Im wrong, but many of them have been doing it for so long they may have forgotten some of the hurdles of just getting started.
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