Knife Picture Thread

[tradertator]

What are those? They are pretty cool. Googling "rat pack" and "knife" came up with a lot of things, these knives were not any of them.

It's named after Navy Seal Tom "Rat" Ratzlaff, and is real popular with the Sayoc Kali group. They're made by Harley Elmore at Headhunter Blades. You can order them from the Sayoc Group or directly from Harley at Warriors Way in Texas. Warriors Way ran a sale on them last Memorial Day, otherwise their pretty pricey.

Honestly, it's probably my favorite defensive knives though, and flows in my hand better than anything else I've found. The sheath is awesome too, and is really low profile.

 

[tradertator]

Online Store | Warrior's Way

 

[Woobie]

http://i63.tinypic.com/161kz7b.jpg


A simple puuko style knife.

 

[rhino]

http://i63.tinypic.com/161kz7b.jpg


A simple puuko style knife.

That's a beauty! From Kellam?

 

[Woobie]

That's a beauty! From Kellam?

Thanks! No, from my garage, lol. It was my first attempt at knife making.

 

[rhino]

Thanks! No, from my garage, lol. It was my first attempt at knife making.

I like it! How does it cut?

Scandinavian knives are some of the best looking (and most useful).

Details on the dimensions, steel, etc?

 

[Woobie]

I like it! How does it cut?

Scandinavian knives are some of the best looking (and most useful).

Details on the dimensions, steel, etc?

it doesn't cut yet, actually. I ran out of 2000 grit paper, and I'm putting a small convex on it for strength.

The hidden tang runs back 3 3/4", and is 1/2" wide. The blade stock is 1/8", blade is 1" wide by 3 5/8" long. Handle is 4", layered of English walnut and maple. Steel is 1095 heat treated to 61 HRC in a vacuum furnace and quenched in brine. I did not do the heat treat. Handle is sanded to 600 grit and treated with Odie's Wood Butter.

It was a lot of fun, and I'm definitely going to try some more out.

 

[rhino]

it doesn't cut yet, actually. I ran out of 2000 grit paper, and I'm putting a small convex on it for strength.

The hidden tang runs back 3 3/4", and is 1/2" wide. The blade stock is 1/8", blade is 1" wide by 3 5/8" long. Handle is 4", layered of English walnut and maple. Steel is 1095 heat treated to 61 HRC in a vacuum furnace and quenched in brine. I did not do the heat treat. Handle is sanded to 600 grit and treated with Odie's Wood Butter.

It was a lot of fun, and I'm definitely going to try some more out.

Awesome!

QUESTION: why convex the edge? Won't that essentially defeat the purpose of a scandi grind?

 

[Woobie]

Awesome!

QUESTION: why convex the edge? Won't that essentially defeat the purpose of a scandi grind?

I thought about that, and did some research on it. So you definitely lose that preset angle for sharpening the scandi gives you. From what I can tell, and I'm sure a lot of this is user preference, if you put a small convex on it, nothing too broad, you can retain most of the scandi's famous cutting ability, while significantly increasing the strength of the edge. My goal was to have a durable, low maintenance edge that could see a few days of use in the camp without maintenance, but still make feather sticks, carve stuff, etc. we will see if my compromise works, or fails miserably!

 

[rhino]

I thought about that, and did some research on it. So you definitely lose that preset angle for sharpening the scandi gives you. From what I can tell, and I'm sure a lot of this is user preference, if you put a small convex on it, nothing too broad, you can retain most of the scandi's famous cutting ability, while significantly increasing the strength of the edge. My goal was to have a durable, low maintenance edge that could see a few days of use in the camp without maintenance, but still make feather sticks, carve stuff, etc. we will see if my compromise works, or fails miserably!

Okay, so you're talking a convex microbevel? That's reasonable. There are also knives that people call "scandivex" where the grind looks like a scandi (flat) but is actually convexed in that region. Condor does it to good effect.

 

[Woobie]

Okay, so you're talking a convex microbevel? That's reasonable. There are also knives that people call "scandivex" where the grind looks like a scandi (flat) but is actually convexed in that region. Condor does it to good effect.

Exactly. I should have just come out and said that. I wasn't thinking clearly when I posted the description (see explanation below). I didn't realize Condor was doing that. That is good information.

So the back 5/8" from the handle has been removed. I took the knife to a friends house to show him. We walked out to the barn to look at some stuff, and when I came back in, the dog had decided the knife was a chew toy. At least most of the handle can be saved. Apparently Odie's Wood Butter is tasty stuff.

 

[rhino]

D'OH! Sorry to hear that!

If you have to do a new handle, think about making flare at the end like a traditional Finnish knife!

 

[Woobie]

D'OH! Sorry to hear that!

If you have to do a new handle, think about making flare at the end like a traditional Finnish knife!

I actually did that, lol. Great minds think alike. I had to cut off the last three pieces of wood. There were gouges in the fourth one from the back. So I sanded out the gouges, making that piece smaller, and flared it down on the last piece of walnut. I'll get around to getting a new picture. It looks better, and feels better in a traditional grip. The original was nicer for using alternate grips.

 

[rhino]

Can't wait to see it!

 

[Woobie]

Well, here it is with the handle repair.

I cut some feathers in that piece of seasoned hard maple, then batoned the little soft maple log. My daughter picked the ends of the feathers, so I cut some more, which you see on the left. Then I went inside and cut the paper thin slices of grape. It is still sharp enough to shave a patch on my face.

On a side note, there is a pucker moment went you pound the spine of a knife you've spent dozens of hours on! But if it won't do the job, its just for show.

 

[other dave]

Picked up an interesting piece today. 2003 Case Mako auto conversion.

 

[Woobie]

That is very cool!

 

[rhino]

Well, here it is with the handle repair.

I cut some feathers in that piece of seasoned hard maple, then batoned the little soft maple log. My daughter picked the ends of the feathers, so I cut some more, which you see on the left. Then I went inside and cut the paper thin slices of grape. It is still sharp enough to shave a patch on my face.

On a side note, there is a pucker moment went you pound the spine of a knife you've spent dozens of hours on! But if it won't do the job, its just for show.

Methinks the dog did you a favor . . . that looks even better than it did before! Well done!

Performance is obviously there based on your testing. Well done!

Now we wait to see the pouch sheath with a dangler that you're going to make for it . . . right? Heheh

Picked up an interesting piece today. 2003 Case Mako auto conversion.

That's very cool! I've seen Buck 110 auto conversions, but most have a Hubertus-style lever switch. That one has a button! The Mako is also one of the best 110 clones from back in the day. Nice find.

 

[Woobie]

Thanks, you're too kind. Yeah, I considered the sheath, and I think I'm going to let a friend of mine make it. I don't think it's going to be completely traditional. I've got a thing for horizontal sheaths, so I think that might be what happens. But I might get the pouch sheath made anyway, just because it is what would normally go with that knife.

 

[Angry Pirate]

Some new Microtechs to add to the collection.

Mafione Customs Combat Troodon with damascus interceptor blade

Ultratech Stormtrooper

UTX-70 Zombietech