How do I keep the rust off my guns?

[sporter]

Indiana is a very humid state in general.
I would advise purchasing a real dehumidifier for your home and running it at say 50 percent or there about to control humidity in your home.

Another thing you can do in addition is to keep your guns wiped down with a small film of oil.

 

[IndyGunworks]

yep... eezox is all i really use anymore

 

[cosermann]

Stop using Remoil. There, I said it. It's a very light simple lubricant. Some have found it has a tendancy to absorb moisture (reason for your problem maybe?). I won't say any more on it. You can use Google if you want. But honestly, there are much better modern products available nowadays.

These Links may be helpful:

The Gun Zone -- Corrosion Test
Corrosion Protection Products for Rifles, Shooting,

 

[ngonerogwu]

I had been using remoil, but I bought a tiny(!!!) bottle of CLP yesterday, and holy crap that stuff is amazing. That stuff is so slick its ridiculous.

Dunno how it will do with rust, because I haven't had that problem, but try some CLP, you'll be amazed.

 

[cosermann]

If you read the above links, you will know how CLP performs with respect to corrosion protection.

Knowledge is power.

 

[VN Vet]

In addition to the above recommendations, I would recommend you look into Renwax. Not only does Renwax protect from moisture it also protects from fingerprints. It's great for your hunting firearms. It's expensive, about 25 dollars for 200 ml but will last you for many years. Many Museums use this wax to protect their historic firearms.

The following is copied from their one of their Web Sites:

[FONT=arial, helvetica]RENAISSANCE WAX is used in the following places in the U.S. - The Smithsonian Institute, Colonial Williamsburg Conservatory, Abraham Lincoln Residence, Henry Food Museum, Academy of Arts, Metropolitan Museum of Art, NRA Museum, Rockefeller Restorations, Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation, National Ornamental Metals Museum, as well as other museums, government agencies, craftsmen and collectors.[/FONT]

[FONT=arial, helvetica]POLISHES AND PROTECTS Guard your precious pieces against the damaging effects of humidity...heat...dust... environmental destruction...aging...and ordinary wear. RENAISSANCE WAX provides a barrier against environmental damage. With its high moisture resistance, it forms a durable, lustrous protective coating. Ren Wax prevents tarnish, corrosion and remains completely waterproof.[/FONT]

[FONT=arial, helvetica]A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY... AND LASTS A LONG TIME Excellent spread and indefinite shelf life make RENAISSANCE WAX economical and convenient, even for very large objects and infrequent use. A small dab goes a long way, unlike most waxes that need generous application. Use a minimal amount of RENAISSANCE WAX, rub lightly, and buff if a gloss is desired. Airtight container keeps wax in perfect condition; always spreadable with an indefinite shelf life.[/FONT]

 

[samrothstein01]

It sounds to me like there are two things going on here. One, rust prevention, which all the other members have covered nicely and give great recommendations. This is how many of us care for our firearms that display no visual signs of rust currently in order to prevent it from appearing.

The second however is how to deal with something that already has rust pores, or if in advanced stages rust pits. Regardless of how small they are, simply wiping it away with some oil typically will give the appearance that they are gone, but will return in short order because the "root of the problem" hasn't been taken care of so to speak. Especially if they are pits, the wiping simply grazes the top of the rust pore and doesn't remove the embedded rust.

I personally have had this problem on a few estate auction and "garage sale" type pieces that I obtained that were no longer cared for properly. I have always had good luck using the oils mentioned previously in this post, and using some very fine (0000) steel wool and GENTLY rub down the rusted area. You may have to repeat this a few times, as you want to be careful not to damage the finish on the gun, but need to take the rust particals off, so repetition is much better than trying to go hard and strong the first time. I have also heard using the outside or rough side of a plastic sponge with aforementioned oils works also, but I have never tried this.

The final option, which is the least desirable and depending on the make/model of the firearm could cause decreased value, is to reblue it or have it treated and coated by one of our fine site supporters that do this type of work.

Just my , hope that helps!!

 

[yotewacker]

Putting guns in a closet is a NO NO. sometimes clothes are not completely dried by the clothes dryer. Any moisture left will cling to a dryer surface. Such as a gun. Put a hygrometer in the closet to make sure the humidity stays down.

A 100w light bulb will go along way. Heat dries. That's why most good gun safes use a goldenrod. Which is a stick about 2' long that produces about 60w of heat. But a light bulb will do the same.

 

[Robert Richardson]

RIG

Rust Inhihibiting Grease,RIG Rag,A sheepskin wiper inpregnated with RIG.PSS has in stock most of the time.

 

[LCSOSgt11]

I use Birchwood Casey "Sheath". Of course, most of my weapons are stainless, hardchromed, or DuraCoated. I use nothing on the DuraCoated weapons.