GM engine guys, I need your help!

[sepe]

That just means I'll have to go find something with a big block, and remove the cat's. Not that I'll be able to afford to drive it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12499121/overview/make/chevrolet

If you had a Dodge, I'd have said go with this...

Mopar Performance P5155513AB Mopar Gen III 426 Hemi Crate Engine

 

[churchmouse]

The reason you can't set the timing like a normal distributor is it's not really a distributor.

It is only a secondary "high voltage" switch.

The primary" low voltage" sensor and module are not in this unit.

The crank sensor in conjunction with the ignition module and the pcm actually determin timing.
The " distributor" switch was to be in time with the primary circut to be in time with the mechanics of the engine.
Scanning it and adjusting it untill your spark retard parameter = 0 is the only way to get it back in time.

This is what I was referring to on getting the timing right.

 

[church]

My money Is on timing.

 

[GLOCKMAN23C]

Here is the procedure that I used to put the distributor in: Chevy Tahoe Distributor Installation It shows a 99 Tahoe, but it matches exactly what mitchell says for my truck.

I did the same thing last year when I replaced the intake gaskets, and I didn't have any problems.

 

[giovani]

So what was your cam retard value?

 

[GLOCKMAN23C]

So what was your cam retard value?

I didn't hook my scan tool up to it today. I shut it down as soon as I heard the noise. I will start this over again in the morning, just to make sure that I didn't miss something.

 

[giovani]

For cam retard 0 is ideal plus or minus 1or 2 is ok when you get up around 5or6 it will affect running.
If you have noise it is either way off by 10 or more, or something went down an intake runner.

 

[GLOCKMAN23C]

As always, INGO comes through! I will let you all know what I find out tomorrow. Here's to hoping I didn't do something stOOpid.

 

[IndyBeerman]

The intake was not leaking internally. The fitting for the heater hose was leaking, I went to replace it, and broke the intake in the process. It has about 125k on it. I think I'll go pull the plugs on the right side, since that a appears to be where the noise is coming from.

Ahhhh yes, the inglorious pot aluminum fitting corroded and crapped out.

I was lucky on my 98 Z71 extended cab, it started leaking under my 7 year/100,000 extended warranty I bought. Between that and my internal tank fuel pump going bad (sounded like a Pratt & Whitney jet turbo firing up) I saved a ton of money for that $500.00 cost to buy that policy.

BTW, wouldn't sound like a collapsed lifter would it?

 

[GLOCKMAN23C]

No, it has too much slap to it, to be a lifter.

 

[remauto1187]

The reason you can't set the timing like a normal distributor is it's not really a distributor.

It is only a secondary "high voltage" switch.

The primary" low voltage" sensor and module are not in this unit.

The crank sensor in conjunction with the ignition module and the pcm actually determin timing.
The " distributor" switch was to be in time with the primary circut to be in time with the mechanics of the engine.
Scanning it and adjusting it untill your spark retard parameter = 0 is the only way to get it back in time.

+1 I guarantee this is the problem and the noise you are hearing is spark knock.
I have a 99 GMC Sierra Vin R 5.7l (same as yours) and there is no way in heck you got that distributor in place without using a scanner and adjusting it then checking until your count is +/- 1. At +/- 8-10 it will start but not run correctly. You HAVE TO get that count as close to 0 as possible. There is a delay after you make an adjustment so you have to wait for a updated count about 15 secs or so after you adjust. Your engine computer (PCM) determines the "ignition advance" and adjusts its pulses to your ignition module accordingly. The ignition module is nothing more than a solid state electronic replacement of fixed breaker points. When the ignition module loses its pulse from the PCM the 12vdc on the low side collapses the magnetic field in the ignition coil which induces a voltage into the secondary (High side) of the ignition coil which is around 23,000 volts which is seeking ground and that happens to be the end of your spark plug(s). This is the only way to use a transformer(ignition coil is a transformer) with DC current. This happens hundreds to thousands of times a minute depending on the engine rpm.

If YOU DID NOT replace those intake gaskets with the felpro problem solvers which have a sheet of metal sandwiched in between gasket you WILL be dealing with a leak AGAIN! Trust me! Spend the extra $20 on those! The factory intake gaskets on the vin r 5.7l have been a known problem for many many years now. My vin r now has 265K miles on it and is still going...so I must be doing something right.

 

[GLOCKMAN23C]

+1 I guarantee this is the problem and the noise you are hearing is spark knock.
I have a 99 GMC Sierra Vin R 5.7l (same as yours) and there is no way in heck you got that distributor in place without using a scanner and adjusting it then checking until your count is +/- 1. At +/- 8-10 it will start but not run correctly. You HAVE TO get that count as close to 0 as possible. There is a delay after you make an adjustment so you have to wait for a updated count about 15 secs or so after you adjust. Your engine computer (PCM) determines the "ignition advance" and adjusts its pulses to your ignition module accordingly. The ignition module is nothing more than a solid state electronic replacement of fixed breaker points. When the ignition module loses its pulse from the PCM the 12vdc on the low side collapses the magnetic field in the ignition coil which induces a voltage into the secondary (High side) of the ignition coil which is around 23,000 volts which is seeking ground and that happens to be the end of your spark plug(s). This is the only way to use a transformer(ignition coil is a transformer) with DC current. This happens hundreds to thousands of times a minute depending on the engine rpm.

If YOU DID NOT replace those intake gaskets with the felpro problem solvers which have a sheet of metal sandwiched in between gasket you WILL be dealing with a leak AGAIN! Trust me! Spend the extra $20 on those! The factory intake gaskets on the vin r 5.7l have been a known problem for many many years now. My vin r now has 265K miles on it and is still going...so I must be doing something right.

Yes, I did use the felpro problem solver set, both times. This is not a job that I wanted to do over.

 

[GLOCKMAN23C]

I pulled the upper plenum off of the intake, and found this. It is magnetic, but I have no clue what it is or how it found its way into the intake. After finding it, I still have a the noise, I have audio, but no way to upload it here. Any thoughts?

 

[giovani]

My guess would be the rest of whatever that is is still in one of your cylinders,if it is not beating up a plug it could be fused to the top of the piston and hitting the head every time it comes up.
If you know of a shop with a borescope you could borrow or rent it might be worth a look to see if you can find it through a spark plug hole.

 

[churchmouse]

My guess would be the rest of whatever that is is still in one of your cylinders,if it is not beating up a plug it could be fused to the top of the piston and hitting the head every time it comes up.
If you know of a shop with a borescope you could borrow or rent it might be worth a look to see if you can find it through a spark plug hole.

I stopped at his house today and it is bad enough that the head has to come off. It is a sharp regular hit on every stroke so you are correct sir....we have a winner.

 

[giovani]

Well aint that a kick in the pants.

I hope its not beat up too bad!

good luck!

 

[church]

Ouch! Boy am I sorry to hear that.

 

[remauto1187]

That looks like molten aluminum. As in what your pistons are made of. Detonation/Pre-Ignition aka Spark Knock will melt the crowns of your pistons. I bet you got more on your hands than just pulling a head and removing the pieces that arent suppose to be in there. OUCH! A GM 5.7L Crate motor will run you around $2300 plus tax.

I pulled the upper plenum off of the intake, and found this. It is magnetic, but I have no clue what it is or how it found its way into the intake. After finding it, I still have a the noise, I have audio, but no way to upload it here. Any thoughts?

 

[Mark-DuCo]

If the piece is magnetic it is not aluminum or part of the piston.

 

[churchmouse]

If the piece is magnetic it is not aluminum or part of the piston.

He pulled it out wit a magnet.
The knock sounds like something stuck on top on the piston