For the gearheads.....

[Tactical Dave]

It's got a set of factory "780" ovals, second best flowing factory oval port casting. They've been ported by a pro, and they've got Manley back-cut valves in them.

As for the cam, the following is directly from Lunati's website:

Hydraulic. Hot Street cam, likes 2800 converter, Hi-Rise type dual plane intake with 850cfm carb, headers, 10:1 compression and 3.73 gears. Likes up to 200HP nitrous.

• Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 276/284
• Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 233/241
• Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .554/.572
• LSA/ICL: 110/106
• Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
• RPM Range: 2200-6400
• Includes: Cam Kit

There's a reason I only went .030 over, used Cometic head gaskets, and studded the heads....BWAHAHAHAHAH......

The LS's def. have a LOT to offer... if I were going to do another, I'd probably go with a 6.0 truck block (iron) and a T76ish turbo.

I had about the same sized cam in my old 468 Chevy but duration was around 275 and RPM was up to 7000, rectangular heads, required a 4,000+ stall and 4.10 or better gears). It was a lot of fun and very streetable, it sounds like yours is a pretty good combo but that stall sounds pretty weak to be honest, just me though.

If anyone tells you that rectangular heads are not streetable laugh at them.

I know there are factory Iron canted BBC heads foating around out there.

I should have me 317 LS1 heads back soon and for sale, race ported that will flow more then say AFR's and other aftermarket heads. They were going to be on a 408 marking aroung 800hp before a 300-400 shot... in a street car aluminum block.

A lot of the better LS1 builders will tell you that the aluminum blocks hold up just fine and make more power because they hold less heat so you can run more timing.

People say the Iron LSX block is the greatest thing ever but the big power guys kept eating bearings...... one day a guy out east designed a griddle that you have to machine the block for it to fit... with it that block will now hold the power reliably that GMPP advertises........

Honestly once you go BBC you never go back haha. You can build a 454 with cheap heads and a descent turbo and no innercooler and it will make 1000hp reliably on mostly stock parts. Don't get me wrong, I like the LS stuff..... just like the big stuff more adn don't care much about MPG..... I run race gas.

 

[D.B.]

Great looking motor! I am a G-body addict also!

Please keep us posted on your build.

 

[ReSSurrected]

WOW.... awesome looking car there DB... Mine pales....

That appears to be an '86 with '83/'84 emblems??

 

[D.B.]

Well she ain't no Big Block car! I have been saving my pennies for a 383 crate engine. Currently a stock 350 with a th350 trans and stock one leg rear. Good fun!

 

[ReSSurrected]

Well she ain't no Big Block car! I have been saving my pennies for a 383 crate engine. Currently a stock 350 with a th350 trans and stock one leg rear. Good fun!

TH350? Was I right on the year of the car, or did you convert to a TH350? Just curious.

 

[jblomenberg16]

Great pics of the build so far. I bet that motor will sound down right wicked once it fires up. Nice lopey idle and race car like howl up at RPM. Bwah ha ha ha ha...

Makes my project build even that much more humbing:

1973 MGB. 1.8 Liter inline 4, and when I'm done I hope to be pushing 90 hp. I did the usual tricks though...bored .030" over, ARP studs all the way around, and had a custom race motor builder do the head for me with a 3 angle valve job.

But alas, it wasn't meant to be a power monster...just a cruiser. It will be fun though, since it only weighs 1200lbs.

 

[Tactical Dave]

Great pics of the build so far. I bet that motor will sound down right wicked once it fires up. Nice lopey idle and race car like howl up at RPM. Bwah ha ha ha ha...

Makes my project build even that much more humbing:

1973 MGB. 1.8 Liter inline 4, and when I'm done I hope to be pushing 90 hp. I did the usual tricks though...bored .030" over, ARP studs all the way around, and had a custom race motor builder do the head for me with a 3 angle valve job.

But alas, it wasn't meant to be a power monster...just a cruiser. It will be fun though, since it only weighs 1200lbs.

Carefull, those ARP studs might not hold that kinda power haha.

1,200 pounds is impressive!

 

[downzero]

Considered it many times, and Edelbrock's ProFlo XT setup is tempting.... until I get to the price tag. ever time I consider some sort of FI setup, I come back to the same thing: I can but a blower on it for less.

Which will make it even less streetable.

It's not the power that makes it so amazing; it's the drivability.

 

[Tactical Dave]

Which will make it even less streetable.

It's not the power that makes it so amazing; it's the drivability.

????

That looks like a cheaper (less capabilities) FAST or BS3 set up and there are more very streetable FAST and BS3 cars... I think though that you are saying the blower will make it less streetable?

I can understand a big Weiland blower..... those tend to run rather hot but not something like a Procharger........ there are a bunch of F-2R's on the street and quite a few F-3R's on the street that go out cruising all the time.

The key is matching the right parts and getting the right tune...

But then again everyone has their own idea of streetable...... there are a few street driven cars on the south side making well over 1000hp....... full interiors and all.... on race gas....... a lot of people though would say they are not streetable because they don't have power steering or A/C.

Forced induction tends to make cars more streetable because it is easier for them to make power (don't need as large of a head or cam).

 

[jclark]

This is a pic of my 71 chevelle.
Hope this works.....I suck at the whole pic thing.

Never mind.....I still suck at uploading pics.

 

[jclark]

What a PITA.....ok here it is.

 

[ReSSurrected]

What wheels are those? Here's what I want, been forcing myself to hold off until I get the bodywork done... Don't wanna be "that guy" with nice wheels and primer

 

[jclark]

Intro's. 17 x 7 in the front, 17 x 10 in the back.

 

[downzero]

????

That looks like a cheaper (less capabilities) FAST or BS3 set up and there are more very streetable FAST and BS3 cars... I think though that you are saying the blower will make it less streetable?

I can understand a big Weiland blower..... those tend to run rather hot but not something like a Procharger........ there are a bunch of F-2R's on the street and quite a few F-3R's on the street that go out cruising all the time.

The key is matching the right parts and getting the right tune...

But then again everyone has their own idea of streetable...... there are a few street driven cars on the south side making well over 1000hp....... full interiors and all.... on race gas....... a lot of people though would say they are not streetable because they don't have power steering or A/C.

Forced induction tends to make cars more streetable because it is easier for them to make power (don't need as large of a head or cam).

That may very well be true. I guess I never thought of it that way, but you're probably right.

 

[Tactical Dave]

That may very well be true. I guess I never thought of it that way, but you're probably right.

People think big power means no driveability and broke parts..... but when built right its not really true. IMHO the only EASY on parts power adder is turbo's...... blower gars are a little hard on parts and nitrous is a little hard on them but all of them are FAR easier on a motor then spinning it to 10k trying to make power...... any big power N/A racer will tell you that you can make a lot of power all motor but at 10k RPM parts don't like it for long and with N/A you NEED RPM or cubic inch to make power.

People then say you will blow up on the bottle or a power adder..... many people blow up with bone stock engines..... why? Because the tune is bad. They say with 400hp worth of nitrous you will blow it up even with a built motor but yet nitrous guys are runing 1000 shots.... why? Beacause they have good parts but the big factor is the tune...... Get something like a Big Stuff 3 or really know how to tune a carb and know how to watch the plugs for either and you can run as much bottle as you want with some quality motor parts.

In short the less RPM and more tunability and the more reliability and streetability you get.

Even big cams are not that big of a deal, its the design of the ramps that are often what kills springs...... you can run any sized cam you want on the street...... at some point though you might be changing valve springs when you get home and have one or two other issues. I know of at least two cars, one could be street driven the other is that are here in twon, both are BBC's with cams that have lift in the .750 and up range on the concervative side.... both just get a re-fresh every winter....... and most would say there is no way you could run a cam that size on the street.

 

[ATOMonkey]

pfffftttt.... my bike sees 10k every day, runs like a top.

 

[Tactical Dave]

pfffftttt.... my bike sees 10k every day, runs like a top.

LOL........

 

[CountryBoy19]

Last but not least, my old creeper had served me well over the years, but the crappy, small-diameter wheels had pretty much given up. Time for an upgrade... Overengineered? Yup.

Forgive crappy bead plz....

If I don't find a job soon, I may even put it in the car.....

Sorry, sometimes the critic in me just has to come out.

You could have saved yourself some overhead clearance on your creeper be placing the added bracket on top of the creeper frame. This would have given you the larger wheels without increasing your ground clearance (and decreasing overhead clearance) drastically.

Unless you wanted the extra ground clearance and didn't mind the loss of overhead clearance.

Crappy bead? I would say that's a pretty good weld; I've seen much worse, and created much worse myself.

 

[ATOMonkey]

Yeah, I was gonna say, that's a pretty good looking weld. No porosity, no stops and starts, heat looks good. Doesn't get much better than that.

 

[ReSSurrected]

Sorry, sometimes the critic in me just has to come out.

You could have saved yourself some overhead clearance on your creeper be placing the added bracket on top of the creeper frame. This would have given you the larger wheels without increasing your ground clearance (and decreasing overhead clearance) drastically.

Unless you wanted the extra ground clearance and didn't mind the loss of overhead clearance.

Crappy bead? I would say that's a pretty good weld; I've seen much worse, and created much worse myself.

Actually, I did look at welding the piece of 1/2" to the top as you state, but doing so would have caused the wheel to hit the frame and not make a full 360 degree sweep. Since I already had the four pieces of 1/2" (with the holes already drilled even) laying around from another project, I went ahead and used them and welded them as you see. As far as the less/more ground clearance debate, I opted for more, one reason being I'm always catching the sleeves of my shirt under the wheels. This will put a little more distance between the ground and my sleeves.

And thanks for the complements on the bead, I'm accustomed to producing better. That one's got some fade in the last (right) half, but it'll hold.