Building a home

[IndyGunworks]

Indy your Pm's are full...

Fixed

 

[IndyGunworks]

Redbud Homes | Indiana's finest Custom built homes since 1977

Manufactured and Modular Homes from Fairmont Homes

Redbud was decent... the construction manager sort of treated me like a kid a few times and I didn't appreciate that, so I moved to D and J homes out of Richmond... both build commodore homes.

Paul at ideal homes is a Fairmont builder and has been fantastic to work with so far.

Still don't know what route we will take.

 

[42769vette]

the construction manager sort of treated me like a kid a few times and I didn't appreciate that.

But its understandable. If I were selling a house and a guy walked in that looked 12 I would be hesitant aswell

 

[IndyGunworks]

But its understandable. If I were selling a house and a guy walked in that looked 12 I would be hesitant aswell

Its the story of my life... I am sure when I am older, I will appreciate looking 10 years younger than I really am, but right now it seems to follow me around.... to the point I had my dad go with me to menards and have "him" price it out so they would take the inquiry seriously. For now though, it sort of sucks...

 

[slowG]

I'm going to look into the commodore home

 

[IndyGunworks]

Of all the modular builders I have looked at, commodore seems to have the best options/pricing.

 

[jamil]

I seek the advice from our loved INGO members.

We are wanting to build a home on a piece of land. Looking for advice to anyone that has done this.

Looking for advice on quality builders that are good on keeping a schedule and do quality work. Not looking for a custom home. Any advice that would help my family along the way is much appreciated. Maybe there is a builder here on INgO!

Also any advice on the construction loan process would be very helpful.

I've had 4 homes built over the years so I've been through the process. It's never been easy. It's often stressful. But when it's all said and done, you generally get what you paid for. Just make sure you hire a builder you feel comfortable confronting because you'll probably need to before it's all over. And expect that if you're not doing custom, you're probably not going to have a lot of say about things.

I have no idea about builders in your area. You asked about the construction loan process and I've done that a couple of times. Two of the homes I built, I didn't need a construction loan as the builder carried the cost until finished. At that point, it was just a conventional loan where I bought the home from the builder. If that's appealing to you, you might try to find a large builder who will do that. Most won't. But financing with a construction loan isn't that big a deal really. I was able to get a convertible construction loan on the other two homes. For construction loans, you go through the normal vetting process, except the bank will probably vet your builder as well as you.

The convertible loan starts out as a construction loan, and then when the home is finished, converts to a conventional loan. The advantage is that there's just one "official" closing, so just one set of closing costs. I locked my construction rate sometime before closing. The loan agreement set a maximum amount I could borrow, which was determined by my credit rating, and the projected value of the home, but allows plenty of wiggle room just in case.

So during construction, your loan officer authorizes you to make draws on the loan as the project progresses. The loan officer may work directly with the builder to negotiate draws, or just work through you. It may or may not be a formal process. The home I had built in Mississippi was very informal. When I needed a draw, I told the loan officer how much I wanted and she cut me a check and I deposited it. Then I wrote a check to the builder when he needed it.

The last home was much more formal. The loan officer negotiated a schedule of milestones with the builder according to stages of construction. I was still the go-between and requested the draws when the builder said he was ready for a draw. For each draw the bank sent someone out to the building site to take pictures to verify the stages were completed before she'd authorize the draw. Once approved they deposited the draw into my checking account and I wrote a check to the builder.

The actual amount you borrow for the conventional loan is determined by how much you actually drew from the construction loan, plus interest accrued, plus loan fees, minus whatever cash you might want to put down. The rate for the conventional part is determined when you convert. I locked in my final rate a month or so before the home was finished. They'll do a final appraisal to make sure your final loan amount is sane, and determine if you'll need to pay PMI. There was an informal "closing" at the end where we signed some final papers, mostly agreeing to the final amounts, and affirming that the home is complete, builder paid in full, etc.

 

[slowG]

Very informative thank you. What builders did you use here?

 

[88GT]

I've had 4 homes built over the years so I've been through the process. It's never been easy. It's often stressful. But when it's all said and done, you generally get what you paid for. Just make sure you hire a builder you feel comfortable confronting because you'll probably need to before it's all over. And expect that if you're not doing custom, you're probably not going to have a lot of say about things.

To that I would add, visit the site OFTEN. Be familiar with the plans for all components: framing, electrical, HVAC, plumbing. My mom built a log home several years ago. The electrical plan used by the contractor was about 3 revisions old. My mom refused to make a fuss about demanding they get on the ball and use the updated plan. The end result was a switch for a light wasn't installed (but the light was) and a second overhead light was installed in an incorrect location. The incorrect location was something she could live with, but not having a switch to a light? Unfortunately, the electrical has to be run BEFORE certain things in a log home build. They also didn't build her doorways wide enough. So when they cut out the old framing to fix it, they used a circular saw and gouged the flooring, which normally wouldn't be a big deal given that it was "subflooring," but her subflooring was 6" planked pine and she wanted it to be her finished flooring as well. (Builder/contractor knew this from the get-go.) So now she has putty-filled gashes in her floor.

I've seen framers "forget" to cut a beam to length, causing it to extend into the bathroom, below ceiling height. I've seen them "forget" to install the wall insulation. (That one was funny because the home owner took a hammer and tore down a section of the wall to prove it wasn't there. ) I've seen vinyl siding "hung" only by locking it in to the row below it.

Visit the site frequently. And take lots of pictures. You'll enjoy looking back on the transformation, but it will also be nice to have proof if it comes to that.

 

[Echelon]

(snip)

Did you get any crap from the county inspectors since its a living space in a pole barn?

 

[jamil]

The first two homes I had built were near Fort Wayne, too many years ago to matter. I'm not sure they're even still in business. They did okay.

The most awesome builder was an old guy and his son in northern Mississippi. Took some getting used to how they did business down there. We didn't have a contract. Just a handshake. I showed him a plan I bought online. Told him what I wanted. He gave me an estimate. We agreed to cost +. Shook hands, and he built it. It took him 9 months to finish it, but it turned out great. No surprises other than, it took him 9 months to finish it. But I didn't give him a deadline.

So the last home I built is the one I live in now. This time I had a very specific contract (the bank wouldn't have given me a loan without it anyway). I stipulated in the contract a deadline for completion. It was built by a small time local builder who does maybe 2 or 3 homes per year. For anonymity, I'd rather not say who it is. He only serves the Kentuckiana area. Even though I like the home now, I spent some grief getting it that way, so I would be reluctant to recommend him anyway.

 

[ghitch75]

what county inspectors?......we have none in Greene county.....it's just framed as a pole barn....

 

[jamil]

To that I would add, visit the site OFTEN. Be familiar with the plans for all components: framing, electrical, HVAC, plumbing. My mom built a log home several years ago. The electrical plan used by the contractor was about 3 revisions old. My mom refused to make a fuss about demanding they get on the ball and use the updated plan. The end result was a switch for a light wasn't installed (but the light was) and a second overhead light was installed in an incorrect location. The incorrect location was something she could live with, but not having a switch to a light? Unfortunately, the electrical has to be run BEFORE certain things in a log home build. They also didn't build her doorways wide enough. So when they cut out the old framing to fix it, they used a circular saw and gouged the flooring, which normally wouldn't be a big deal given that it was "subflooring," but her subflooring was 6" planked pine and she wanted it to be her finished flooring as well. (Builder/contractor knew this from the get-go.) So now she has putty-filled gashes in her floor.

I've seen framers "forget" to cut a beam to length, causing it to extend into the bathroom, below ceiling height. I've seen them "forget" to install the wall insulation. (That one was funny because the home owner took a hammer and tore down a section of the wall to prove it wasn't there. ) I've seen vinyl siding "hung" only by locking it in to the row below it.

Visit the site frequently. And take lots of pictures. You'll enjoy looking back on the transformation, but it will also be nice to have proof if it comes to that.

^This.

BTW, you can prove the insulation isn't there with a thermal imager. With this last home I hired an inspector before I signed off on the home, and used his report as the punch list for the builder. The inspector used a thermal imager to check for trouble areas. It was finished during winter so that worked out well. We found some spots, not that the insulation was missing, but some spots where it was improperly installed. The subcontractor rushed through it and wasn't thorough enough. But the builder made it right.

None of the problems I've encountered were cases where builders were trying to put one over on me. You hire a general contractor. He hires subcontractors to do most of the work. The subcontractors mostly determine the quality of workmanship. They do what they're contracted to do, as fast as they can do it, because they want to get paid and move on to the next job. If your builder hires craftsmen, you'll get a professional job. If he hires any yahoo he can find to get the job done, well, that's where I've had most of the problems.

 

[slowG]

Does anyone know about what it costs to have land plotted?

 

[88GT]

BTW, you can prove the insulation isn't there with a thermal imager.

Yeah, but it's not nearly as dramatic when you're trying to catch your contractor in a lie either.

Does anyone know about what it costs to have land plotted?

And in a staked survey identifying the corners/boundaries? Or taking a large parcel and breaking it up into multiple smaller parcels?

The staked survey will run a few hundred dollars and up. The larger the parcel, the more the cost. I have no idea what the cost is to parcel out a larger chunk of land. But it would be way more than the stake survey because the staked survey would have to be the first part of the process. Then create survey boundaries for the new parcels. Then have the lawyers work up new deed/deeds.

 

[IndyGunworks]

I paid 850 dollars for my staked boundry survey with about 5 spot elevations included. My property was 165 feet wide by 1584 feet long. right around 6 acres.... the next closest price to that was 1200 dollars.

 

[mtinner]

There are industry standard residential home building codes out there somewhere, but not sure where to look for a copy. Maybe search for one on the internet. Keep it with you when you visit the home being built (and visit it often). If you have any questions for the contractor and your not sure if he's being honest, check that code book.

 

[slowG]

I paid 850 dollars for my staked boundry survey with about 5 spot elevations included. My property was 165 feet wide by 1584 feet long. right around 6 acres.... the next closest price to that was 1200 dollars.

Do you know who I would contact to start the process by chance?

 

[Kev]

I am building a house as we speak, however I am way up in Northern IN. I'd be happy to share builder and contractors we've used if you think it would help.
I am building on 10 acres, and the survey/plotting costs were around $500.

I echo the comment on inspecting everything often. All of my contacts with the builder and subs are all responsive and helpful, but mistakes happen. So My wife and I are at the site every other day. Sometimes daily depending on what is going on.

Try to pick out all of your colors/flooring/options way before they are needed. You will be going back and forth a bit, and don't want to rush anything.

Good luck!

 

[Echelon]

what county inspectors?......we have none in Greene county.....it's just framed as a pole barn....

So you are saying you didn't pull any building permits, or complete any inspections?