I got one today in Muncie, missed out on the $100 rebate, my wife is not very happy, but I like it.
Anyway, I took the advice on this thread and anchored the safe in the corner where getting leverage with a pry bar would be tough. The house alarm would be blaring as well, and a deputy en route. Should be good to go now. Much better than keeping the guns in their cases.
Nice upgrade. Given that the entry door opens towards the safe, you should check if it opens far enough to hit it. If it does, you should see about getting some kind of rubber stops to keep them from dinging each other up.
Sorry about that... I called in Monday night and purchased the only remaining one (floor model) over the phone...
Last time I tried to use a 10% coupon it didn't discount the sale items. Since this safe is heavily discounted I'm certain that the 10% coupon will not work. I use the $10 coupons instead and those do work on sale items.
PSA for those that are buying one of these. #1 It is possible to move it yourself. I did last night out of necessity. My neighbor was supposed to help but when I got back home with the safe and told him I was ready he said he was sick and couldn't help. I had already laid it flat on it's back in the truck so I just slid it to the balancing point and slowly lowered it down to the ground then tipped it up straight. I then "walked it" corner-by-corner into my walkout basement.
#2 If you're not putting this on a concrete floor in a basement etc I highly recommend you add more insulation in the bottom. The bottom is only a single sheet of drywall and a thin sheet of particle board. There is a large air-gap between the bottom steel and the drywall leaving room for another sheet of drywall in there.
#3 I highly recommend you take the inside cover off and check all the fasteners in the door. I had several loose fasteners and things were "rattling" a lot. Caution: the lock-nuts on all of the sliding mechanisms are supposed to be "loose" to allow things to slide freely but mine were very loose. I lubed the slide points then snugged all the fasteners down to take the rattle out. My handle now turns with a bit of force but not overly hard.
#4 Seeing as how the door is going to be the most vulnerable part of my safe during a house fire I decided to add some extra insulation in there. I cut figerglass "duct-work" sheet with the foil backing on them to fit inside the door. I have 1-1/2 layer that is notched around all the door components then a final layer that covers them all. That should hopefully prevent the problem with the contents in the top of the safe overheating that is often seen in these cheap safes during a house fire.
#5 This is just a general announcement for anybody looking at getting one. These do have a key-override which can be a good thing or bad thing. The shelf supports a plastic (won't hold much weight), and the locking mechanism is the typical "junk" seen on cheap safes. The 1-3/4" locking bolts are only 2 inches long, single-supported, and are attached to the thin, stamped steel slide mechanism by nothing more than a 5/16" bolt. What this means is that during a pry attack, your door is going to pop open easily if they can get good leverage on it. I HIGHLY recommend placing this safe in a corner with the left wall of the safe against the wall of your house so that a thief cannot get a good angle to pry the door open.
I bought a Johnson safe, holy crap its unreal. got the thicker steel option, amazing safe, amazing interior, amazing quality and craftmanship, costs a bit more than the mass produced safes, but worth every penny.
I bought a Johnson safe, holy crap its unreal. got the thicker steel option, amazing safe, amazing interior, amazing quality and craftmanship, costs a bit more than the mass produced safes, but worth every penny.