220v welder wire up help

[Caleb]

Got a new to me welder, needed to wire up properly...

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

That's some pretty heavy wire. What's the gauge? What is the current requirement? If it's 50A or 30A you'll have to run at least that gauge from a double breaker in your panel, then there are outlets and plugs for those levels. I've wired 30A 240V to outlets in the garage for my MIG and my spot welder. It's nothing really difficult.

 

[Caleb]

That's some pretty heavy wire. What's the gauge? What is the current requirement? If it's 50A or 30A you'll have to run at least that gauge from a double breaker in your panel, then there are outlets and plugs for those levels. I've wired 30A 240V to outlets in the garage for my MIG and my spot welder. It's nothing really difficult.

the welder is rated for 220v at 44amps

 

[Garand41]

Use a double pole 50 amp breaker and 6 gauge copper wire.

 

[Garand41]

Use a double pole 50 amp breaker with 6 gauge copper wire, If you use aluminum wire, you will have to go up to a larger gauge and use an anti-oxidant on the joints.

 

[HenryWallace]

It's always scray teaching people E solutions from a distance.

Use a double pole 50 amp breaker with 6 gauge copper wire, If you use aluminum wire, you will have to go up to a larger gauge and use an anti-oxidant on the joints.

Good Point, but first Look for a Manual. It could say use a higher Amperage. Looks Miller Blue, they should have all manuals online for free. Always better to follow the instructions from the MFG.
You will wire this like you would wire a Dryer or a stove. If you're not familiar with working with a breaker box, KILL THE POWER TO IT (Via the main, but be prepared to work in the dark, and get yourself a Tick tester or power tester, just to double check that the power is actually off - especially if your breaker has to be bolted to the internal bussing [BTW - Bussing are the CU or AL bars in the back of the breaker box]). It would be bad news to slip in your flat-head screwdriver to the rear bussing of the panel while it's live.
Otherwise I'd suggest using the existing wire and using a non fusible or fusible disconnect rated for 220vac single phase 60 amps (or whatever the amperage your manual will tell you) to patch the gap between it and your breaker panel breaker (It's better to go lug to lug in a box rather than to wire nut something and then e-tape the hell outta it).
Run all of your conduit or all of your grip connectors first and then run your wire through and cut to length. Wire to breaker without snapping or screwing to the panel yet and then do just that.
If you have a meter and know how to use it, I'd say test all voltages phase to phase and phase to ground to make sure that you 1. are grounded, and 2. that you've got the right voltage going where you want it. Keep insulated, shielded, and start running beads!

 

[JeremiahJohnson]

All good advise.

I have a Miller welder and a Miller Plasma Cutter on the way - congratulations. Miller makes excellent gear.

 

[Caleb]

Use a double pole 50 amp breaker with 6 gauge copper wire, If you use aluminum wire, you will have to go up to a larger gauge and use an anti-oxidant on the joints.

Aluminum wire? I don't have it in my car, why would I put it in my house? IIRC, aluminum wire is against code.

 

[Caleb]

All good advise.

I have a Miller welder and a Miller Plasma Cutter on the way - congratulations. Miller makes excellent gear.

what welder?

 

[JettaKnight]

Aluminum wire? I don't have it in my car, why would I put it in my house? IIRC, aluminum wire is against code.

Why? Cost per pound.

Check the wire coming into your house. Check the wire feeding your breaker box...

 

[CountryBoy19]

AL wire is permissable for the larger sizes for sure. Not sure if it's against code for the small, in-wall wiring or not. I'm not a code expert.

All good advise here so far.

It's pretty straight forward, it really doesn't even matter if you get the black/white wires switched around on 220V. Just make sure green is to the ground terminal on your plug and the other 2 wires are connected to the other 2 terminals and same if you're wiring an outlet in. Make sure ground goes to ground and the Black wire goes one of the hot legs and the Red/White wire goes to the other hot leg.

 

[femurphy77]

Aye, he's a manly man now!!!A welder in the shop reeks of manhood!!! (Insert Tim Allen grunts here)

 

[danil]

Aluminum wire is not used for 2 reasons: expands and contracts more than copper and therefore can loosen up over time plus there are oxidation and other issues when combined with non-aluminum connections. But, I'm not an electrician.

 

[eldirector]

Get a NEMA 6 plug for the welder:
Shop Lincoln Electric Welding Parallel Blade Plug at Lowes.com

And the matching outlet for the wall:
Shop Cooper Wiring Devices 50-Amp Flush-Mount Power Outlet at Lowes.com

Your welder's manual should have a wiring diagram for the plug.

Drop the appropriately sized 2-pole breaker in your panel, and wire it up with the correctly sized wire (I used 8-gauge copper).

What model welder is that? I'm sure the manual is online.

 

[Caleb]

Aye, he's a manly man now!!!A welder in the shop reeks of manhood!!! (Insert Tim Allen grunts here)

Replaces that garbage Clark welder...

Get a NEMA 6 plug for the welder:
Shop Lincoln Electric Welding Parallel Blade Plug at Lowes.com

And the matching outlet for the wall:
Shop Cooper Wiring Devices 50-Amp Flush-Mount Power Outlet at Lowes.com

Your welder's manual should have a wiring diagram for the plug.

Drop the appropriately sized 2-pole breaker in your panel, and wire it up with the correctly sized wire (I used 8-gauge copper).

What model welder is that? I'm sure the manual is online.

Millermatic 250....using 40 amp breaker running through #8 wire, eventually I need to update box and replace the 40 amp with 50 amp and #6 wire

 

[eldirector]

Millermatic 250....using 40 amp breaker running through #8 wire, eventually I need to update box and replace the 40 amp with 50 amp and #6 wire

Scratch what I posted, then. This welder is designed to be hard-wired (no plug/outlet). Something like this:
Shop Square D 4-Circuit 2-Space 70-Amp Main Lug Load Center at Lowes.com

Manual:
http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o1308n_mil.pdf

See page 9 of the above manual for electrical service. This calls for a 70A max breaker and 10AWG wire for 220A operation.

I don't know of a plug/outlet combination for 70A (60 is the highest I know of).

Kick-ass welder, man!

 

[Caleb]

Scratch what I posted, then. This welder is designed to be hard-wired (no plug/outlet). Something like this:
Shop Square D 4-Circuit 2-Space 70-Amp Main Lug Load Center at Lowes.com

Manual:
http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o1308n_mil.pdf

See page 9 of the above manual for electrical service. This calls for a 70A max breaker and 10AWG wire for 220A operation.

I don't know of a plug/outlet combination for 70A (60 is the highest I know of).

Kick-ass welder, man!

Back of welder says 230v/44amps

 

[long coat]

Caleb your PM box is full, its not it. Thank you for checking.
You can put a 3 prong 220v plug on it, kind of like a stove.

 

[eldirector]

Back of welder says 230v/44amps

Correct. The manual also specifies the breaker size.

I'm guessing the surge amperage is over 44, so they want a larger breaker upstream. You can likely get by with a smaller one (say, a 50A), but may trip it now and then.

For instance, my little 220V Hobart has a 20A input, but calls for a 30A breaker.

Just looking at the specs on mine, and then the specs for the various configurations of yours, it looks like the breaker specified is 150% of the input current.

Just realized yours is DOUBLE the amperage of mine! I bet that thing can melt some metal.

 

[Caleb]

Caleb your PM box is full, its not it. Thank you for checking.
You can put a 3 prong 220v plug on it, kind of like a stove.

My welder isn't working ATM...turns on but no wire feed/arcing. Having a bad day!