Who here likes the Sig DAK?

[USMC-Johnson]

Yeah I have the srt, gray guns spring set, and gray guns trigger coming. So that with some healthy polishing should make for an outstanding setup

 

[FreeFAL]

I recently traded a lightly used 229 DAK to Fort Liberty in Avon. Great gun but the trigger just isn't for me. Ironically I traded it for a Gen 4 G19...

 

[tbhausen]

Lots of good work done with DAO revolvers over the decades... Embrace it and get the most out of it. Very cool and thoughtful design IMO.

 

[SpaldingPM]

If I ever want another one to make a project out of in the future, Gunbroker typically has DAK's LEO and Fed trade in's for dirt cheap. They look like they've been drug behind an ATV to mexico, but nothing some sanding and cerakote won't fix!

 

[sig1473]

If I ever want another one to make a project out of in the future, Gunbroker typically has DAK's LEO and Fed trade in's for dirt cheap. They look like they've been drug behind an ATV to mexico, but nothing some sanding and cerakote won't fix!

Yep, I passed on one that went for $475 and looked BNIB though. I couldn't justify getting another 229 though right now.

 

[LCSOSgt11]

The DAK is a lighter initial DA pull than the DA/SA Sigs. With that said, DAK still is not the answer. Our dept. is issued the Sig 229. Too small for duty, too large for off-duty. I would appreciate it more in a single stack format. Since I am also an armorer, I am appalled at the stamped metal junk appearing parts in the Sigs. I guess buying a Sig is like buying a John Deere. You pay for the name, too. And Sig customer service leaves something to be desired. Trust me.

Don't get me wrong. Sigs work. So do Glocks. So do Smiths. So do Berettas. Et. al.

 

[Osprey]

The P229 DAK looks very similar to my P250SC. I'm also trying to get used to the small size as well as the DAO trigger. Don't want to give up on it just yet so I went out and bought a .357/.38 revolver just to get used to that revolver trigger feel again. It could just be it being a subcompact. I have the 2SUM version so if all else fails, I can switch to full size and try it. As I have other firearms. having different types of triggers is good experience.

 

[USMC-Johnson]

The stamped "junk" inside...care to elaborate on this a bit? i've seen a lot of hate on sigs as of late but nothing that holds much water.

 

[Coumtryflyer]

I think for carry a dao trigger is best, and you just can't beat the sig quality. If you can get used to the trigger, and try not to think what you could get for it, you should keep it.

 

[LCSOSgt11]

USMC-Johnson:

We recently detail stripped most all of our department pistols. We replaced the recoil spring, trigger bar return spring, grip screws, and the much hated, much beat upon firing pin retaining pin in the slide. The parts kit when received has a new recoil spring, grip screws, both a solid and roll pin to replace the firing pin retaining pin, and decocker spring, and trigger bar return spring.

Now, maybe it's just me. I am used to other pistols, but looking at the trigger bar, it seems to me that it may be easily bent, and we had some crack or appear to crack about midway along the length of the bar. One of the rear lips of the bar rubs on an excrescence on the interior right side of the frame, which is aluminum. There is no way to lubricate that area without fully taking the gun apart. Sure, with some of these guns it was the first time they had been fully disassembled since 2004. Wear areas should be accessible for lubrication. Looking at the safety lever, ejector, sear spring, and sear, one notes that one pin holds all of these items together and is a pain in the rear to assemble properly without practice.

I don't know, maybe it's me. I'm not sold on aluminum frames for any potentially heavy duty weapon. I don't hate the Sig. I am surprised, however, at the stamped metal parts contained therein. For the price one pays for a Sig, I would think that forged parts would be the way to go, but I am definitely not an engineer.

Oh, and with regard to the firing pin retaining pin in the slide, we bent more punches getting those solid pins out. Getting them in was neat too. Some of the heads of the pins would "mushroom" prior to getting the pin fully seated in position, requiring its removal and replacement with a roll pin. We called Sig about this, in fact one of the slides we could not extract the firing pin retaining pin at all.

Their answer?
" Let me guess. You guys bent and flattened a bunch of punches, didn't you? Yes, some of the solid pins were machine pressed, and will be only removed by sending the slide here in order to have our machine remove it. The thing is, you cannot tell which slides you can remove the pins from, or have to be sent here for removal." We did not get a satisfactory answer one way or the other about the roll pins. We noted that our newer pistols, purchased within the past two years or so, have a roll pin in place of the solid pin.

So, if Sig is somewhat disingenuous with regard to police armorers and a significant expenditure by our agency, I can only speculate as to when an individual calls Sig for individual assistance.

Of course, our experience may be an anomaly. I hope it is.

 

[in625shooter]

USMC-Johnson:

We recently detail stripped most all of our department pistols. We replaced the recoil spring, trigger bar return spring, grip screws, and the much hated, much beat upon firing pin retaining pin in the slide. The parts kit when received has a new recoil spring, grip screws, both a solid and roll pin to replace the firing pin retaining pin, and decocker spring, and trigger bar return spring.

Now, maybe it's just me. I am used to other pistols, but looking at the trigger bar, it seems to me that it may be easily bent, and we had some crack or appear to crack about midway along the length of the bar. One of the rear lips of the bar rubs on an excrescence on the interior right side of the frame, which is aluminum. There is no way to lubricate that area without fully taking the gun apart. Sure, with some of these guns it was the first time they had been fully disassembled since 2004. Wear areas should be accessible for lubrication. Looking at the safety lever, ejector, sear spring, and sear, one notes that one pin holds all of these items together and is a pain in the rear to assemble properly without practice.

I don't know, maybe it's me. I'm not sold on aluminum frames for any potentially heavy duty weapon. I don't hate the Sig. I am surprised, however, at the stamped metal parts contained therein. For the price one pays for a Sig, I would think that forged parts would be the way to go, but I am definitely not an engineer.

Oh, and with regard to the firing pin retaining pin in the slide, we bent more punches getting those solid pins out. Getting them in was neat too. Some of the heads of the pins would "mushroom" prior to getting the pin fully seated in position, requiring its removal and replacement with a roll pin. We called Sig about this, in fact one of the slides we could not extract the firing pin retaining pin at all.

Their answer?
" Let me guess. You guys bent and flattened a bunch of punches, didn't you? Yes, some of the solid pins were machine pressed, and will be only removed by sending the slide here in order to have our machine remove it. The thing is, you cannot tell which slides you can remove the pins from, or have to be sent here for removal." We did not get a satisfactory answer one way or the other about the roll pins. We noted that our newer pistols, purchased within the past two years or so, have a roll pin in place of the solid pin.

So, if Sig is somewhat disingenuous with regard to police armorers and a significant expenditure by our agency, I can only speculate as to when an individual calls Sig for individual assistance.

Of course, our experience may be an anomaly. I hope it is.

I have extensive experience with SIG's as an issued sidearm and also had a personal. I also was not a fan of aluminum frame handguns but believe (from experience) SIG has it down and are probably the most durable of all the aluminum designs. Our agency guns were 228 and there replacements were 229 in 9mm. (we still have mostley 228's in service) The 228's came into service around 1996 and most have 100,000 rounds through them. The 229's were picked up here and there when we replaced the couple 228's that we dead lined.

The only thing I saw and only on a couple were the roll pin holding the breech block in place broke in two inside. The breech blocks were loose and had play to them but still fired with zero malfunction.

The other couple were normal wear items like recoil springs becoming weak with sluggish reciprocating slides (which with 100,000 rounds they tend to) and grip screws coming out hear and there.
In fairness though these guns were used hard on Special Operations Response Team duties.

I will say SIG can be difficult to deal with if you are trying to get items on the personal side. Department side they are a little more accommodating but not much!

 

[USMC-Johnson]

USMC-Johnson:

We recently detail stripped most all of our department pistols. We replaced the recoil spring, trigger bar return spring, grip screws, and the much hated, much beat upon firing pin retaining pin in the slide. The parts kit when received has a new recoil spring, grip screws, both a solid and roll pin to replace the firing pin retaining pin, and decocker spring, and trigger bar return spring.

Now, maybe it's just me. I am used to other pistols, but looking at the trigger bar, it seems to me that it may be easily bent, and we had some crack or appear to crack about midway along the length of the bar. One of the rear lips of the bar rubs on an excrescence on the interior right side of the frame, which is aluminum. There is no way to lubricate that area without fully taking the gun apart. Sure, with some of these guns it was the first time they had been fully disassembled since 2004. Wear areas should be accessible for lubrication. Looking at the safety lever, ejector, sear spring, and sear, one notes that one pin holds all of these items together and is a pain in the rear to assemble properly without practice.

I don't know, maybe it's me. I'm not sold on aluminum frames for any potentially heavy duty weapon. I don't hate the Sig. I am surprised, however, at the stamped metal parts contained therein. For the price one pays for a Sig, I would think that forged parts would be the way to go, but I am definitely not an engineer.

Oh, and with regard to the firing pin retaining pin in the slide, we bent more punches getting those solid pins out. Getting them in was neat too. Some of the heads of the pins would "mushroom" prior to getting the pin fully seated in position, requiring its removal and replacement with a roll pin. We called Sig about this, in fact one of the slides we could not extract the firing pin retaining pin at all.

Their answer?
" Let me guess. You guys bent and flattened a bunch of punches, didn't you? Yes, some of the solid pins were machine pressed, and will be only removed by sending the slide here in order to have our machine remove it. The thing is, you cannot tell which slides you can remove the pins from, or have to be sent here for removal." We did not get a satisfactory answer one way or the other about the roll pins. We noted that our newer pistols, purchased within the past two years or so, have a roll pin in place of the solid pin.

So, if Sig is somewhat disingenuous with regard to police armorers and a significant expenditure by our agency, I can only speculate as to when an individual calls Sig for individual assistance.

Of course, our experience may be an anomaly. I hope it is.

As far as the older style solid pins...yeah those are a ***** to get out. The way the trigger bar works there is very very little lateral forces on it. It is pushed almost straight back.

As far as getting the ejector, sear block, sear spring, and safety lever back together it is very simple in my opinion. Takes a lot less work than a smith and wesson thats for damn sure. I've gotten it down to well under 2 minutes to do a SRT which requires removing all those components minus the ejector. And that time is from starting with the slide on to finishing with the slide on.

 

[LCSOSgt11]

Kudos to you for getting the ejector, sear, sear spring, and safety lever in place under two minutes. Agreed, with practice, the procedure gets easier. However, with a gunked up funky pistol, getting that pin out that holds those parts in the frame may be a pain in the backside. We use the Sig armorer's kits, which leave something to be desired in the punch realm. The "easy out" punch only works well with one pin. I would suggest finding tool steel punches or some that are heat treated. The hammers provided in the kits are worse than worthless.

Some of the older pistols we had showed what appeared to be excessive (in my opinion) wear where the trigger bar rides on the frame excrescence. Some of the pistols showed a "trench" in the excrescence, however, they did work as advertised.

We also found that several of the newer 229's had plastic recoil spring guides. When we talked with Sig, they were surprised, as the civilian versions of the 229 usually go out with the plastic guides, not the police weapons. I would say make all of the guides metal, and there would be no issues.

 

[USMC-Johnson]

Yeah you would think that but welcome to one of many sigisms...

I will post up the quick video of how i change out an SRT.

And yeah when they are dirty the can be a PITA. But there are quite a few little tips and tricks that will get you through a pistol mighty fast especially for what one would assume is a fairly complicated firearm. They are very simple to work on and very user friendly in my experience.

 

[USMC-Johnson]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWE9x_42vps&feature=youtu.be

 

[Big Guy]

The statements earlier about the Sig service department is pretty much the same experience I had. I had an encounter with a broken extractor after the first shot in a brand new P226 9mm. It took the service department 5 weeks to get me the correct extractor, and only after I took a picture of it and emailed it to them. They wanted me to send the gun in to them, had I gone along with their suggestion, I might still be waiting to have it returned. It was a very easy job to replace the extractor, and I'm glad now that I did it myself.

 

[Streck-Fu]

Sending the pistol to the Sig Custom Shop for conversion to DA/SA costs $199 + $55 round trip shipping. LINK ...if you are not comfortable with doing the work yourself.

 

[Streck-Fu]

They wanted me to send the gun in to them, had I gone along with their suggestion, I might still be waiting to have it returned. It was a very easy job to replace the extractor, and I'm glad now that I did it myself.

I had to send in a 2022 a few weeks ago. They received it on a Friday and had it back at my house the next Thursday.