Tumbling media?

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  • JetGirl

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    Could you use other car polishes?
    Yes, but as Red said, avoid ammonia.

    Would it be a good idea to remove primers and then polish?
    Leave the primers in and tumble. When you decap them, if there's any media there, it'll help pop it right out.

    I've used several compounds over the years one of the best i found was a dab of flitz metal polish
    Flitz was what I used exclusively for quite some time.
    This stuff is cheaper, you use the same amount, and pics of the result are posted upthread ^.

    G10307_ScratchX20.jpg


    Quick question. How many runs do you guy get after you add the polish? Or just toss it after 1 use. I don't me like 1 load, but after 1 day of cleaning...?
    I cut up a dryer sheet and stick it in with the media, polish, & brass. It extends the life of your media, cuts down any dust when you open the lid...and your brass is April fresh. :D
     

    gregkl

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    The natural cat litter from wally world does not get stuck in the cases like your saying, if it does stick in the case hold them against the side of the tumbler with it running.




    1. you can use any polish you want but I would avoid anything to abrasive and anything containing ammonia its suppose to weaken brass but we've used brasso with no ill effects

    2. either or your choice but remember, your running dirty brass through your die to de-prime first.

    I've got some Final Finish by Menzerna. It is step two of a 3 step process to polish my car(if you don't count clay bar as a step). It is not very aggressive.

    Good point. I think I would like to keep my dies as clean as possible.
     

    gregkl

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    Yes, but as Red said, avoid ammonia.


    Leave the primers in and tumble. When you decap them, if there's any media there, it'll help pop it right out.


    Flitz was what I used exclusively for quite some time.
    This stuff is cheaper, you use the same amount, and pics of the result are posted upthread ^.


    I cut up a dryer sheet and stick it in with the media, polish, & brass. It extends the life of your media, cuts down any dust when you open the lid...and your brass is April fresh. :D

    People keep talking about adding a "little" polish. How much is a little? And doesn't it depend on how much media you have and the size of your tumbler?

    Give us a recipe!:)
     

    JetGirl

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    People keep talking about adding a "little" polish. How much is a little? And doesn't it depend on how much media you have and the size of your tumbler?

    Give us a recipe!:)

    I have the Lyman Turbo 1200. I fill it between 1/2 and 3/4 with a half and half mix of cob & walnut (depending on how much brass I'm chucking in there).
    I use about a tablespoon of polish (that's about half an ounce... or less than a quarter of a shot glass).
    And a cut up dryer sheet. :D
     

    bberg

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    amount sounds about right, I use about half of what you would put on your tooth brush,tooth paste when using flitz. I bought a big tube years ago when it was new and relatively cheap. almost gone now so I may need to invest in the car polish method....after I looked at price of flitz earlier. if it gives you an idea the large tube was about twice the size of a toothpaste tube and it literally has treated a couple hundred loads of media, lasting something like 8 years. a nice bottle of polish at your reloading table is going to last a long time!
     
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    gregkl

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    I have the Lyman Turbo 1200. I fill it between 1/2 and 3/4 with a half and half mix of cob & walnut (depending on how much brass I'm chucking in there).
    I use about a tablespoon of polish (that's about half an ounce... or less than a quarter of a shot glass).
    And a cut up dryer sheet. :D

    Okay, thanks JetGirl! I just bought a Turbo 2200 from someone here on INGO. Don't know what the difference is, but the recipe is probably the same.
     
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    j706

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    I got some real finely ground media from andrew at profire. I too had problems with larger media sticking in flash holes of 5.56 until I got this stuff. It is dusty but works great.
     
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    twfshelton

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    Dumb question from someone wanting to get into reloading. Would it not be better to tumble the brass after spent primer is removed?? Or is it no concern because the new primer fits so snug?
     

    tallend

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    when using the vibrator type -----for tarnished cases,I start with a wash in "IOSSO"case cleaner,then treated walnut hulls....


    when using a tumbler for my straightwall ctgs(45acp,45-70) I use the ceramic pellets,with a soap/water mix

    tallend

    P.S.as I shoot black powder ctg------asap,after fireing,I put the ctg in soapy water------rinse,(for extremly tarnished cases,I will use IOSSO)then use the ceramic pellets/soapy water in a tumbler-------2hrs,they look like new,and it cleans all BP residue inside the case
     

    Nayls47

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    I like walnut. Lizard bedding at the pet store.

    :thumbsup: Lizard Bedding (from a pet supply store) and two cap fulls of Nu Finish car wax every other load.
    It's the best I've used so far. It doesn't get stuck in the primer pockets.
    As JetGirl said run it with the car wax in it for a little bit before adding the cases. You'll be good to go.
    :+1: on the used dryer sheets. Keeps the dust off.
     
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    Leo

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    Since I am a hopeless experimenter, I had always heard about the "danger of corn cobb or walnut media stuck in the flash holes. Since a .45 with only a primer has enough pressure to stick the bullet 1/2 way into the barrel, I wondered how much harm could that grain of media could do. I Purposely loaded a number of .45 acp brass that had media stick in the flash hole. I also loaded a number with a clean flash hole. Same powder, same bullets. I shot them over a chronograph and also at a target. How much difference did the plugged flash hole make? Zero. I primarily tumble before depriming so decapping clears the hole. If I am tumbling some brass that is already deprimed, I do not worry about it. Good Luck
     

    antsi

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    2. Would it be a good idea to remove primers and then polish?

    This can be done, but first I do agree as mentioned it means you are running dirty brass through your sizing/depriming die (unless you have some other kind of dempriming set up) - this can mar up your sizing die.

    One other issue is that depending on the texture of your media, you can get primer pockets packed with media which can be a pain to clear. So run a small amount of brass first to make sure your media clears easily from the pp's - this way if you run into a problem, you only mess up a small amount of brass rather than a big bunch.
     

    Sniper 79

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    Vote for corn media. I am still on the original bag that my Cabelas brand tumbler came with. It does not get stuck in the holes.
     

    AuburnGuy

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    Lizard Bedding (Walnut) and one cap full of Nu-Finish every 4-5 batches. I cut up strips of used laundry drier sheets to collect and reduce dust and put them in there. Hands down the best media I have ever used, much cheaper as well.
     

    xHwyLT

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    This can be done, but first I do agree as mentioned it means you are running dirty brass through your sizing/depriming die (unless you have some other kind of dempriming set up) - this can mar up your sizing die.

    One other issue is that depending on the texture of your media, you can get primer pockets packed with media which can be a pain to clear. So run a small amount of brass first to make sure your media clears easily from the pp's - this way if you run into a problem, you only mess up a small amount of brass rather than a big bunch.
    You can always use a universal decap die. The die doesn't make contact with the brass, so no worries regarding marring the size die.

    As far as the media is concerned, walnut leaves a satin like polish, the corn cob media makes it more shiny. A great place to get the crushed walnut media is at Harbor Freight - 25 lbs for $22.99. Just make sure you use the "fine" grade instead of the "coarse" grade. Link below:
    Fine Grade Walnut Shell Blast Media - Harbor Freight Tools
     
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