The Yugoslavian M92 “Krinkov” Custom built for $1800 (??)

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  • linkpimp

    Sharpshooter
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    0   0   0
    Jan 28, 2010
    396
    18
    So-Cal ~ Huntington Beach
    Hey team I’ve been saving up my pennies (no the wife doesn’t know, please don't tell her :D) and I finally have enough to go out and buy the one rifle I’ve always wanted an AK.. But not just any AK I want a bad ass one.. One that is as reliable as my LWRC upper is on my AR.. ;)

    I have this one gentlemen here in so-cal that has as he claims that he had it custom built by this famous guy (forgot his name) it’s brand new and never been fired

    Her are some pics of it that he sent me.. :popcorn:

    0018.jpg



    OrvHQl.jpg




    He wants $1,800.00 for it??? :scratch: I don't mind paying the money but I want / should be getting one the best AK on the market for that price (right??) :dunno: I’ve looked around and they are going for about $1,300 new – not custom built.. So I guess is the custom build part going to be worth the extra $500.00??

    I want something that I can trust my life too with no questions asked and I have an AR one now it’s time to get an AK one

    Any words of wisdom from the team.. Any thoughts on what is the best AK and what I should be researching??.. :popcorn:

    Thanks for your time everybody and have a great one

    Link..


    P.S.
    YES… it’s 100% Cali compliant
     
    Last edited:

    IndyMonkey

    Shooter
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    Jan 15, 2010
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    the parts kits are 1k and troy at Inrange charges a little under 300 to build them back to original configuration. Mine should be done in 3 more weeks.
     

    techres

    Grandmaster
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    Mar 14, 2008
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    Some thoughts from a krink owner:

    1. Do you plan to turn it into an SBR? If not, then the point of a krink is kinda lost in the long flash hider there.

    2. Underfolders look cool but have some drawbacks. The actual stock is uncomfortable to shoot and does not allow a good cheek weld. Additionally, the stock after many thousands of rounds will begin to wobble as the mechanism shakes itself apart (tears holes actually). It can be repaired, but it is something you should know gong into the game.

    3. The Krink has the worst iron sights out there due to short sight radius. A yugo krink will not have a side rail to add optics with. You will have to decide on whether to add a rail to the dustcover (which will require drilling) or go with new foregrips which are not cheap ($200+).

    4. Name is important. Mine is a Krebs which adds value. Ohio Rapid Fire, Vector, etc, the name does matter. Once you cross the $1000+ barrier with an AK, you have entered collector's land. Name will be vital.

    5. My Krink works fine now but needed some break in. The ejection of brass is less vigorous than my other AK's have been. Frankly, the cheaper AK's were probably points ahead in reliability due to the larger size and proximity to original design. Do not count them out. Seriously consider a normal, but quality AK and then modding it as you see fit. You will save serious cash and potentially gain more function.

    In any event, get what you like and can afford. The real cost will be in keeping the thing fed!

    Techres
     

    Clay

    Grandmaster
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    81   1   0
    Aug 28, 2008
    9,648
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    Vigo Co
    If I were going to buy a Krink, it would be a 'real' krink (for what ever that really means), ie an AKSU-74 w/ skeleton side folder.

    Underfolders are fun, but pretty worthless as a stock. The skeleton style side folders are as good of a stock as any other for the most part, and much more functional than an underfolder.
     

    techres

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    Mar 14, 2008
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    If I were going to buy a Krink, it would be a 'real' krink (for what ever that really means), ie an AKSU-74 w/ skeleton side folder.

    Underfolders are fun, but pretty worthless as a stock. The skeleton style side folders are as good of a stock as any other for the most part, and much more functional than an underfolder.

    I intended to go that way, but I wanted 7.62x39 (I surmised that the shorter barrel would effect the heavier round's terminal ballistics less). That put me into a Yugo Krink pistol. I planned to get the pistol turned into a standard stock setup for flexibility (function over correctness), but the internal trunions were done for folder and the cost of modification was not worth it, so underfolder I went.

    The underfolder is cool, and it can be made better with parachord as padding, but long term there is the concern about wobble. I figure, it is mine and I will just have to shoot the crap out of it and find out.

    I could not afford to buy the thing as a done deal. I went incremental due to funds. That ended up tying my hands.

    If you like the feel and look, then go for it! Just adding my :twocents:
     

    Clay

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    Aug 28, 2008
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    Vigo Co
    I thought about that with the 7.62 as well. I guess you could always have a kyber pass style krink built, ie 74 back end w/ 47 front end :)
     

    curraheeguns

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    Nov 8, 2008
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    NW Hendricks County
    I think $1800 is way to high. Mine is a Nodak, looks just like that and I bought it walking around at the NGD in Louisville for $800. $100 in finishing and parts and $200 in tax stamps and now I have a $1100 SBR Krink. I love it!!!
     

    linkpimp

    Sharpshooter
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Jan 28, 2010
    396
    18
    So-Cal ~ Huntington Beach
    the parts kits are 1k and troy at Inrange charges a little under 300 to build them back to original configuration. Mine should be done in 3 more weeks.

    Cool.. Congrads on your find.. $1000 for the kit you say and 300 to build it..

    thanks for the heads up..

    Link..


    $1800 for an AK, it better clean, cook, and perform other tasks for that. I'll stick with my broke in Maadi!

    Hahahaa I know I know.. haha..



    Some thoughts from a krink owner:
    1. Do you plan to turn it into an SBR? If not, then the point of a krink is kinda lost in the long flash hider there.

    2. Underfolders look cool but have some drawbacks. The actual stock is uncomfortable to shoot and does not allow a good cheek weld. Additionally, the stock after many thousands of rounds will begin to wobble as the mechanism shakes itself apart (tears holes actually). It can be repaired, but it is something you should know gong into the game.

    3. The Krink has the worst iron sights out there due to short sight radius. A yugo krink will not have a side rail to add optics with. You will have to decide on whether to add a rail to the dustcover (which will require drilling) or go with new foregrips which are not cheap ($200+).

    4. Name is important. Mine is a Krebs which adds value. Ohio Rapid Fire, Vector, etc, the name does matter. Once you cross the $1000+ barrier with an AK, you have entered collector's land. Name will be vital.

    5. My Krink works fine now but needed some break in. The ejection of brass is less vigorous than my other AK's have been. Frankly, the cheaper AK's were probably points ahead in reliability due to the larger size and proximity to original design. Do not count them out. Seriously consider a normal, but quality AK and then modding it as you see fit. You will save serious cash and potentially gain more function.

    In any event, get what you like and can afford. The real cost will be in keeping the thing fed!

    Techres


    :yesway::yesway: thank you for the schooling!.. :D

    1. No I'm not looking to turn it into a SBR..
    2. I’ve never had and Under fold, and here in Cali it’s pinned back, GREAT information on the cheek weld too.. all things / information I never thought of..
    3. thanks for the info on the no side rail and on the sights.. Yes I’ll add an Aimpoint or ACOG to do.. so thanks for the heads up..
    4. Name is big (OK cool) so I need to look for / at Krebs / Ohio & Vector (right)..
    5. What is a normal but quality AK if you don't mind me asking??
    6. As for feeding it (I’m good to go there) no worries at all on that department..

    Techres..!.. thank you so much for your time and input.. I really appreciate it..

    Shaun.


    If I were going to buy a Krink, it would be a 'real' krink (for what ever that really means), ie an AKSU-74 w/ skeleton side folder.
    Underfolders are fun, but pretty worthless as a stock. The skeleton style side folders are as good of a stock as any other for the most part, and much more functional than an underfolder.

    Cool so it looks like I need to be researching the (Krink).. or the AKSU - 74? do I want a 47?? now I'm really confused sorry.. Yes I really need to do some more homework.. I'm sorry.. Thanks for the advise Clay..


    I think $1800 is way to high. Mine is a Nodak, looks just like that and I bought it walking around at the NGD in Louisville for $800. $100 in finishing and parts and $200 in tax stamps and now I have a $1100 SBR Krink. I love it!!!

    That's what it's looking like at this point.. (I just love your guys!).. I'll research on the Nodak and the Krink..

    I don’t wont to build it, I wont something that someone else who knows what he' doing to have already built it.. But it looks / sounds like the Krink is the way to go..

    Thanks Curraheeguns..

    Thank you all team for saving me some serious Cash!.. and pointing me in the right direction..

    God bless INGO.. :ingo:
     
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