Did it have a factory solid spacer setup?The rebuild kit for the 8.5 10-bolt had it. but that was in 2019
I think so? You're asking me to remember over 3 years ago details. I can barely remember what I had for breakfast today.Did it have a factory solid spacer setup?
I've just never seen a 10 bolt with a factory solid pinion spacer setup. Now I'm curious if they ever did it.I think so? You're asking me to remember over 3 years ago details. I can barely remember what I had for breakfast today.
I do have the oil slinger, just no preload spacer. And every kit I've looked at online did not include one. It appears to be unobtanium.Finding the shims and bearings is no issue, sounds like he is having a hard time finding the spacer. I don't believe that it would come in a rebuild kit, I'm sure it's meant to just be reused.
No, I just have used them for a couple of things. Been a few years since I've been there, but they were pretty helpful when I used them.I do have the oil slinger, just no preload spacer. And every kit I've looked at online did not include one. It appears to be unobtanium.
I'll call the guys at the shop and see if they are willing to help a guy out. Do they know you?
What Dana differential is this? Dana 30?CM, I get it with buying a rebuild kit. I'm not opposed to doing that, but from what I can see the pattern on the ring and pinion look good. I'm not really seeing a reason to pull all the bearings and shims already there just to do it again.
If that is what I ultimately have to do I will, but if I get a proper set up with what I took out, then why not run with it?
If I have to start pressing bearings on and off, making sacrificial bearings (of which I don't have the die grinders to be able to do that), I may as well take all the pieces to a shop and have them set it up.
I have been beaten in the past setting up a rear end but I was so close according the mechanic who fixed my error.
I'd like to nail it this time. I have the dial indicators, the beam in/lb torque wrench, the gear paste. I think I can do it.
Had a man once tell me: "try it. If you mess it up, you can always have someone fix it for you."
So your shop up there (really nice guy! Older) said that they either have shims or a crush sleeve. He didn't know anything about a preload spacer. He thought that was the name for the crush sleeve. The FSM does say "typical" so maybe that is showing two different set ups. Here is what I am finding of a shim kit for my diff:I'll take that bet. Mainly since I don't think I'll be in the Indy area and you won't be up here in the far north anytime soon, all though if you're I would definitely meet up for some grub.
If it was a crush sleeve I would agree it would be in the kit, since it needs replaced everytime. Since this spacer is a solid one I would think it would just be a reuse the original equipment thing.
Love the ol Chevy.
It is a High Pinion Dana 30 made in 1999 for a '99 Jeep Cherokee. 3.55 open gearing.What Dana differential is this? Dana 30?
What Jeep (year and and model) does it fit
Get me that info and I will talk with a couple of my coworkers that play with Jeeps a lot
Dang, how did I not think of Morris.Check this out. Not bad for @ $50. Lists as being for Dana 30View attachment 200092
Aren't those paper shims? I thought I came across this and read they were paper. I don't know if it makes a difference, but mine is an XJ, not a WJ.Check this out. Not bad for @ $50. Lists as being for Dana 30View attachment 200092
I didn't see anything about them being paper shims. If could try looking it up on our parts program/ dealer connect if you are willing to message me the VIN.Aren't those paper shims? I thought I came across this and read they were paper. I don't know if it makes a difference, but mine is an XJ, not a WJ.
OK it’s a bet.I'll take that bet. Mainly since I don't think I'll be in the Indy area and you won't be up here in the far north anytime soon, all though if you're I would definitely meet up for some grub.
If it was a crush sleeve I would agree it would be in the kit, since it needs replaced everytime. Since this spacer is a solid one I would think it would just be a reuse the original equipment thing.
Love the ol Chevy.
I went to the site. It states in the description that they made out of paper. What's up with that?I didn't see anything about them being paper shims. If could try looking it up on our parts program/ dealer connect if you are willing to message me the VIN.
Love it. If you are not making mistakes you arent doing anything. A wise older man told me this when I was a very young man.CM, I get it with buying a rebuild kit. I'm not opposed to doing that, but from what I can see the pattern on the ring and pinion look good. I'm not really seeing a reason to pull all the bearings and shims already there just to do it again.
If that is what I ultimately have to do I will, but if I get a proper set up with what I took out, then why not run with it?
If I have to start pressing bearings on and off, making sacrificial bearings (of which I don't have the die grinders to be able to do that), I may as well take all the pieces to a shop and have them set it up.
I have been beaten in the past setting up a rear end but I was so close according the mechanic who fixed my error.
I'd like to nail it this time. I have the dial indicators, the beam in/lb torque wrench, the gear paste. I think I can do it.
Had a man once tell me: "try it. If you mess it up, you can always have someone fix it for you."
If I was healthy and closer.........I went to the site. It states in the description that they made out of paper. What's up with that?
BTW, I put it together tonight to see what kind of pattern I had. I hit the min required torque and then some on the pinion nut with .006" backlash. The drive side of the ring pattern was in the middle, both top to bottom and side to side. On the coast side I was in the middle top to bottom buy skewed to the toe side.
Not sure if I want to live with that or not. I still have to oil everything better, put the old nut on and go through the process again. And then check to see if anything has changed.
Then if it's okay, remove the old nut and put a new one on. And of course check it again.
Or I can accept defeat and take it to a shop. It will probably cost me about $300 to have them set the ring and pinion only.
30's are not the stronger choice. They work well enough. Will probably serve you very well.It is a High Pinion Dana 30 made in 1999 for a '99 Jeep Cherokee. 3.55 open gearing.