The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

[d.kaufman]

Working on this one for a customer. Blew the trans up. C4 that wasn't built for the strip. All that was done was manual valve body installed and 3500 stall converter. Said it lasted 4 passes. Definitely a wild airbrush paint job on it.

 

[d.kaufman]

Another customer. Just bought it 2 days ago and trans crapped out on the 1st day

 

[churchmouse]

Working on this one for a customer. Blew the trans up. C4 that wasn't built for the strip. All that was done was manual valve body installed and 3500 stall converter. Said it lasted 4 passes. Definitely a wild airbrush paint job on it.

View attachment 197400

This is what I try and tell folks that think the shift plate and a converter will put them in the big leagues.
It puts you in the tranny shop is what it does...

 

[churchmouse]

Another customer. Just bought it 2 days ago and trans crapped out on the 1st day

View attachment 197408
View attachment 197409

Very clean. Is it a 727 or a 904...??

 

[d.kaufman]

Very clean. Is it a 727 or a 904...??

727

 

[churchmouse]

727

Well, he has half a chance then...

 

[d.kaufman]

Well, he has half a chance then...

It's a chrysler....maybe 1/4 chance at best

 

[femurphy77]

Working on this one for a customer. Blew the trans up. C4 that wasn't built for the strip. All that was done was manual valve body installed and 3500 stall converter. Said it lasted 4 passes. Definitely a wild airbrush paint job on it.

View attachment 197400

Well. . . . . . . . . . . . obviously SOMEBODY thought this paint job was a good idea!

 

[thunderchicken]

Well. . . . . . . . . . . . obviously SOMEBODY thought this paint job was a good idea!

I'm sure it cost plenty to have it done and obviously the owner was influenced by something but I can't even figure out what is going on there

 

[d.kaufman]

I'm sure it cost plenty to have it done and obviously the owner was influenced by something but I can't even figure out what is going on there

I'll have to get pics of the other side and the roof. Roof is a spiderweb with a maybe a 6×6 sized spider in the center. Just didn't seem to match the demon/undead/skulls theme, but to each their own.

 

[Jaybird1980]

I'm sure it cost plenty to have it done and obviously the owner was influenced by something but I can't even figure out what is going on there

You clearly haven't had the right kind of mushrooms today.

Do that and then stare at it, you will understand then.

 

[jeffsqartan]

So, I made a slight calculation error in choosing to use the Mountaineer 302 in my turbo project.
Guess what kind of pistons those engines come with? If you guessed, "not the right kind for boost," then congratulations, you can have whatever is left of a piston when I send it to space! For real, this thing probably has hyper-eutectic pistons and I'm not gonna lie, I don't care lol. I mean, I do. But I've seen multiple counts of guys boosting them, so we'll just see what happens I guess. I'm not backing down from it.

I've got two spare 351's and a 302 WITH forged pistons in it, so I'll figure something out.
And if you're wondering, "why not just yoink the motor from the convertible and rebuild it with the new heads/cam???" the answer is: this car has had a WICKED vibration starting at about 3500 rpm for the last 5 years. I've replaced the harmonic balancer, engine mounts, and literally almost everything behind the crankshaft. The Flywheel, clutch, trans has been rebuilt thrice, mounts, basically everything I can think of. Makes the vibration in gear, out of gear, clutch engaged, disengaged, hell I had the transmission out of the car and it still did it.
I'm convinced something is out of whack with that motor and I'm not really looking to put it back in anytime soon. Wondering if the endplay is farked and it needs... well idk if that would be a new shaft or just bearings?

We move on regardless!

Ok, I lied. I keep thinking about it. Asked the guy who's supposed to tune the car, he said 10psi is safe, in theory.

I have 2 questions:

1 - how much does it usually cost to have JUST pistons put in an engine? I'm comfortable doing anything that's not machining/balancing. I know I'll need pistons, rings, and bearings. I'd like to just dingle-ball hone the cylinders (they still have cross hatching, can't tell if there's a taper or not). Can I take the shop my rotating assembly and have them balance a new set of forged pistons?

2 - I need some shop names you guys trust for this work.

 

[churchmouse]

Ok, I lied. I keep thinking about it. Asked the guy who's supposed to tune the car, he said 10psi is safe, in theory.

I have 2 questions:

1 - how much does it usually cost to have JUST pistons put in an engine? I'm comfortable doing anything that's not machining/balancing. I know I'll need pistons, rings, and bearings. I'd like to just dingle-ball hone the cylinders (they still have cross hatching, can't tell if there's a taper or not). Can I take the shop my rotating assembly and have them balance a new set of forged pistons?

2 - I need some shop names you guys trust for this work.

The actual weight diff. should not be critical.
Look at the cross hatch in the cylinders. If it is evenly worn in the ring travel the taper should be minimal. If it is worn a lot at the top then you need to check the bores.
Weight the new pistons. You can set the weight on them yourself. Find the lightest one and make the other 7 match it. Takes some tome and a decent scale but should be EZ-PZ for a mad scientist such as yourself.

As to bearing look the journals over real close. If they need polished (minimal what I would do) or turned it will be obvious.

 

[Jaybird1980]

Ok, I lied. I keep thinking about it. Asked the guy who's supposed to tune the car, he said 10psi is safe, in theory.

I have 2 questions:

1 - how much does it usually cost to have JUST pistons put in an engine? I'm comfortable doing anything that's not machining/balancing. I know I'll need pistons, rings, and bearings. I'd like to just dingle-ball hone the cylinders (they still have cross hatching, can't tell if there's a taper or not). Can I take the shop my rotating assembly and have them balance a new set of forged pistons?

2 - I need some shop names you guys trust for this work.

I know a few people who run 8-10 on the stock pistons.how much are you wanting to run?

As to the pistons you can ball hone it and put the pistons in, just know that the longevity won't be like doing it proper. I would also think you would want to break it in with no boost to get the rings set good, but then again that's just an assumption on my part.

Not sure if those piston pins are pressed in or clips either.

 

[churchmouse]

I know a few people who run 8-10 on the stock pistons.how much are you wanting to run?

As to the pistons you can ball hone it and put the pistons in, just know that the longevity won't be like doing it proper. I would also think you would want to break it in with no boost to get the rings set good, but then again that's just an assumption on my part.

Not sure if those piston pins are pressed in or clips either.

Boost will kill this pretty fast.

 

[ChristianPatriot]

Boost will kill this pretty fast.

EFI and E85 can do wonders for these types of things.

 

[jeffsqartan]

I'm wanting to run however much boost it takes to make 400 at the tires. Going off of the MUSTANG hp numbers, it's 225 factory. This new engine will have a better intake, cam, and heads. Probably closer to 300 at the crank. I'm completely spit balling that number.

I'd need between 425-450 to make 400 at the tires.

Being a little crude with numbers, but 14psi theoretically doubles your horsepower.
So if it makes 300 with the new parts and I need to make an extra 150 to hit my target, in theory I only need 7psi.

Man... Maybe it will do what I want? Now that I've "crunched" the numbers I'm not as afraid of it.

I will say, my biggest fear is reliability. I don't want to be starting off every run wondering, "is this gonna be the one" because you all should know I'm gonna beat this thing mercilessly.

PS - kinda funny to think that my Cummins was making 600 at the tires with 60psi...

 

[thunderchicken]

You clearly haven't had the right kind of mushrooms today.

Do that and then stare at it, you will understand then.

You maybe onto something.

 

[churchmouse]

I'm wanting to run however much boost it takes to make 400 at the tires. Going off of the MUSTANG hp numbers, it's 225 factory. This new engine will have a better intake, cam, and heads. Probably closer to 300 at the crank. I'm completely spit balling that number.

I'd need between 425-450 to make 400 at the tires.

Being a little crude with numbers, but 14psi theoretically doubles your horsepower.
So if it makes 300 with the new parts and I need to make an extra 150 to hit my target, in theory I only need 7psi.

Man... Maybe it will do what I want? Now that I've "crunched" the numbers I'm not as afraid of it.

I will say, my biggest fear is reliability. I don't want to be starting off every run wondering, "is this gonna be the one" because you all should know I'm gonna beat this thing mercilessly.

PS - kinda funny to think that my Cummins was making 600 at the tires with 60psi...

All the more reason to seal it up in the cylinders. Good gaskets and head studs.
Not being one with much (if any) blue Oval knowledge I would wonder as to the rods/main webs. But how much parasitic loss will you have in reality through the drive train. I know it’s higher than 25 and 50 is more realistic but that’s a number you need to pin down if possible.
450 at the crank should be doable with boost.

 

[churchmouse]

You maybe onto something.

Yeah I was hearing Ravi Shankar and seeing a Hooka on the coffee table.