Should I clean my dies after loading lead?

[BehindBlueI's]

I'm still new to loading lead bullets. Pre-panic I stuck with jacketed only, but with cost and availability I've ventured to the lead side.

I loaded 100 .357s today, 158 grain LSWC Missouri Bullet Co bullets (thanks, Profire!). I noticed that it felt a bit sticky on the last few rounds. Like when I worked the handle it moved like it was in notches instead of smoothly. Does the lead or lube stick in the dies? Do I need to clean them out every so often? If so, what do I use?

 

[ViperJock]

Yes, lick them clean. Or wait, no, I can't remember now because i licked to many lead filled dies... Honestly, I don't know. I would just be very careful using lead. Low speed lead poisoning is just as bad as high velocity lead poisoning. Only, you know, slower....

 

[sgtonory]

I dont clean unless i notice my seating depth is below what i want. Now all i load is lead that i cast myself. Can shoot 45 cheaper than 22lr.

 

[Sniper 79]

Yes the lube will build up in the seating die. I use a small pick and scrape it off when I notice a different fell like you described. Be careful because the lube can actually push the bullet deeper and could be out of spec. Just check it every so often while loading and scrap as needed. All I load now is lead and as stated above I can shoot my .45 and .357 mag cheaper than .22LR. I have yet to see anyone beat Standard Bullet Company in Des Plains IL. He has not had a price increase in years. Got to call him though he does not keep up on his website.

 

[SERparacord]

I'm still new to loading lead bullets. Pre-panic I stuck with jacketed only, but with cost and availability I've ventured to the lead side.

I loaded 100 .357s today, 158 grain LSWC Missouri Bullet Co bullets (thanks, Profire!). I noticed that it felt a bit sticky on the last few rounds. Like when I worked the handle it moved like it was in notches instead of smoothly. Does the lead or lube stick in the dies? Do I need to clean them out every so often? If so, what do I use?

Clean the ram on your re-loader *if you use a single stage reloader*, they collect every speck of dirt/dust/debris/etc. I also clean my dies after reloading and I only use jacketed.

 

[Kirk Freeman]

I had same problem (smurf puke getting into die). My solution was to increase the flare on station #2 (we need to talk about your flair and your flare).

I use a light coating olive oil on the seating and crimp die. No problems now.

 

[SEIndSAM]

I had same problem (smurf puke getting into die). My solution was to increase the flare on station #2 (we need to talk about your flair and your flare).

I use a light coating olive oil on the seating and crimp die. No problems now.

Olive Oil, why didn't I think of that???

 

[reno]

I generally swab them out occasionally. No set time, but I just look at them and if they need it they get it.

 

[billybob44]

Do I need to clean them out every so often?

Yes you do need to clean your dies-More often when loading cast.

I save/use worn bore cleaning brushes. Use the next size oversize-In other words-If you are cleaning .38/357 dies, use a worn .40 cal. brush-if you're cleaning .40 dies, use a worn .45 cal brush.

The threads on the old cleaning brush will fit standard RCBS or Redding accessory handles. I dry brush first, followed by a patch. Light lube when done with BreakFree or similuar CLP type of oil.

I check/clean about every 100 rounds loaded. This IS where Dillon Dies REALLY shine--can dis-assemble without loosing your adjustments...Bill.

 

[SERparacord]

I had same problem (smurf puke getting into die). My solution was to increase the flare on station #2 (we need to talk about your flair and your flare).

I use a light coating olive oil on the seating and crimp die. No problems now.

That only works if you are hunting Italians.

 

[Slow Hand]

A little more flare will help avoid lube build up in your seating die. Another thing that will help is to seat and crimp in separate operations. I'll be honest, I seat and crimp together unless loading hotter rounds with a real heavy roll crimp. I have found a long cotton swab with alcohol on it will clean out most bullet lube. I scrape it out first with a skinny flat bladed screwdriver an then swab it with the alcohol. Works well and I don't have to readjust te does afterwards.

 

[Claddagh]

IMO, the best arguments for purchasing Dillon's pistol caliber die sets that might act to help rationalize paying the semi-hefty premium they charge for them are: 1. Both the seating and crimping dies utilize "Quick-release" inserts. Pull off one ring clip and the 'guts' come out for cleaning. It makes the routine chores pretty much inherent in loading lead bullets much easier, and thus more likely to get done regularly. Your adjustments aren't affected. 2: The seating die insert's stem has a vent hole in it. This is supposed to give any lube and/or lead residue somplace to go and extend the potential number of rounds you can produce before the die needs to be cleaned out.

"Value" being an entirely relative and subjective term, only you can decide whether the $63.95/set (+ shipping) price to have those features would be worth it to you.

FWIW, I've had good luck just using RCBS split-lock adjustment nuts instead of the ones which came with most of my current die sets. So long as I don't have to remove the seating stem to flush all of the crud out, my depth and crimp adjustments stay as they were.