I decided I would take pics of a knife i am making and post em on here for you all to see. So here we go. This is going to be a drop point hunting style knife. I am using basic tools and materials.
First thing I do is sketch out the blade. Then I cut out my sketch and glue it to a piece of wood to use as a template.
Then I cut out a chunk of steel from the saw blade normally i cut most of the waste metal away before annealing but i am out of cut off wheels for the grinder.
Now I anneal the steel. This can be done in a campfire or charcoal grill Im just using a propane forge because I have it.
When the steel cools off it will be covered in scale. This can be taken of with sand paper but I dipped mine in acid because Im lazy.
Once the scale has been removed I clamp the template to the steel and have at it with an angle grinder and files.
Here it is after grinding and filing the profile.
Now cut the choil or spanish notch.
Now dye the blade this can be done with Dykem or just a sharpie as I have done here.
Scibe the height of your bevels.
I use a parallel clamped to the blade for my plunge lines.
Start filing.
The blade after the bevels are cut.
Center punch the pin holes and bridging holes.
Pin holes and bridging holes drilled
I didn't have a free hand to take pictures during heat treat but what you do is heat the blade to critical which is slightly above non magnetic and let it cool slowly. This is called normalizing and you do it a few times before hardening the blade. To harden take the blade to critical and let it "soak" for a minute or two and then quench in your quenching medium in this case oil. Then temper it buy heating it up to what ever the metal calls calls for in this case around 400 degrees.
I will post more pics as I make more progress.
First thing I do is sketch out the blade. Then I cut out my sketch and glue it to a piece of wood to use as a template.
Then I cut out a chunk of steel from the saw blade normally i cut most of the waste metal away before annealing but i am out of cut off wheels for the grinder.
Now I anneal the steel. This can be done in a campfire or charcoal grill Im just using a propane forge because I have it.
When the steel cools off it will be covered in scale. This can be taken of with sand paper but I dipped mine in acid because Im lazy.
Once the scale has been removed I clamp the template to the steel and have at it with an angle grinder and files.
Here it is after grinding and filing the profile.
Now cut the choil or spanish notch.
Now dye the blade this can be done with Dykem or just a sharpie as I have done here.
Scibe the height of your bevels.
I use a parallel clamped to the blade for my plunge lines.
Start filing.
The blade after the bevels are cut.
Center punch the pin holes and bridging holes.
Pin holes and bridging holes drilled
I didn't have a free hand to take pictures during heat treat but what you do is heat the blade to critical which is slightly above non magnetic and let it cool slowly. This is called normalizing and you do it a few times before hardening the blade. To harden take the blade to critical and let it "soak" for a minute or two and then quench in your quenching medium in this case oil. Then temper it buy heating it up to what ever the metal calls calls for in this case around 400 degrees.
I will post more pics as I make more progress.