Ruger 10/22 Failure to Fire Issues

[top hat 45]

glad the rifles worked fine for you. too bad about the vision problems, but i definitely know what you are talking about. thats why i have to use scopes on all my rifles.

andrew, (profire) told me he can get the cci blazers. i know hes not local to seymor. i get mine through natchez, along with the other bullits for reloading.

contact me anytime for more mods or adjustments you want to make.....daryll

 

[Colt556]

Glad you got it squared away and shot well. Great to get help from fellow members. AllenM and DrillSgt have helped me out greatly in the past. I want to try an Appleseed sometime too.

 

[BGDave]

This thread is one of the reasons I really like INGO. Found out more about 10/22 in ten minutes than I would have thought possible. Thanks to everyone.

 

[remauto1187]

First thing I do when I pickup a well used .22 is to disassemble and thoroughly clean. It seems nobody ever cleans a .22. If its obviously been shot the hell out of I replace the firing pin and extractor. If I have any further "light strike" problems...then the hammer spring. Also problems that I have noted especially on bolt action marlins/savage is the groove in the barrel where the extractor fits into after the bolt is locked is that there becomes a burr in that ramp that the exractor rides in forward of the shell rim. This can cause the extractor to skip over the rim and FTE. I polish those burrs out and good as new.

 

[Hop]

I've done some of the easier 10/22 mods and now both mine run really well BUT one still seems to throw a shot high left once in a while.

What's the best way to measure square-ness & head space?

 

[top hat 45]

I've done some of the easier 10/22 mods and now both mine run really well BUT one still seems to throw a shot high left once in a while.

What's the best way to measure square-ness & head space?

pull the barrel and look at the face, if its like raynes it was only shiny from contacting the bolt on the left side about 30%. the other 70% or so was black with powder burn. that means the barrel wasnt square with the contact of the bolt .the way to measure rimfire clearance on a 10/22 bolt is with micrometer or caliper where the rim of round contacts the bolt compared to where the bolt hits the barrel. subtract difference and should be .042. factory bolts are NEVER that tight to be able to shoot a multitude of cheap and other ammo. nor are they ever perfectly square unless a fluke just because of machining tolerances.. if you go to rimfirecentral.com there are lots of tips concerning rugers and people advertising to fix your parts and sell upgrades. the trigger pull being the most important.

 

[Rayne]

Glad you got it squared away and shot well. Great to get help from fellow members. AllenM and DrillSgt have helped me out greatly in the past. I want to try an Appleseed sometime too.

If you really want to do an Appleseed you need to go to their webpage and get one of the gift certificates. It will let you do an Appleseed for $50 instead of $80. Yep, the price went up. Women are $40 now and kids are $20 unless with a paying adult, then they are still free. Gift Certificate is good for any Appleseed, anytime, no expiration date.

This thread is one of the reasons I really like INGO. Found out more about 10/22 in ten minutes than I would have thought possible. Thanks to everyone.

I couldn't agree more. There are some mighty fine people on INGO, who will share their time, talents and knowledge with you!!!

 

[Rayne]

I've done some of the easier 10/22 mods and now both mine run really well BUT one still seems to throw a shot high left once in a while.

What's the best way to measure square-ness & head space?

Might be your ammo and not your rifle. The federal bulk pack seemed to always have a flier on me too. The head space issue I was having was causing light strikes and failure to fires not accuracy problems.

I ran CCI Blazer bulk pack last weekend and that ammo was very accurate as long as the person behind the trigger could get their act together.