Revolvers Suck ...

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  • Wild Deuce

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    I had a pretty good response from the resident expert at the Ruger Forum. I thought I should share the link here in case anyone stumbles across this thread with the same problem.
     

    gglass

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    I had a pretty good response from the resident expert at the Ruger Forum. I thought I should share the link here in case anyone stumbles across this thread with the same problem.

    I'm glad that Iowegan could respond to your issue. He is "THE MAN" when it comes to Ruger revolvers, and my personal Ruger GURU. Or, should I say RuGuru. :D
     

    Wild Deuce

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    It jammed again today at a match. Gun was "ready for sale" clean. It jammed after one round.

    Gun is going somewhere for repair.
     

    TheGhostRider

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    Jan 10, 2009
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    I would like to identify a cause before I send it back to anyone (Ruger or the gunsmith) in case it's a simple fix. I'm hoping to find anyone that has had a similar occurrence with their GP100.



    Yes. We checked the primers. They were fine. The underside of the extractor star was shiny and debris free, too.

    No. It would always jam before the hammer went all the way back. Cylinder was tight as a drum and required some good hard whacks with the palm of the hand to get it to swing free.

    Haven't contacted Ruger or the gunsmith yet. The problem is less than 10 hours old.

    I have had this same experience!
    It turned out to be primer set back. It only takes a c hair of setback to lock up a revolver. I've had it it happen to another revolver with the same batch of ammo...
    Ruger GP100
    Taurus CIA650SS
    It just happened to be Winchester ammo too.
    Before you do anything else clean the cylinder and throw some full power loads down range.
    Take two or three different types of ammo and try them. If the problem repeats with all the types then you have a clearance issue and I would advise sending it back.
    Too correct an actual clearance issue requires gauging the gap between the cylinder and frame on the firing pin side. If a high spot is present it will have to be removed or the cylinder will have to be set forward which also requires adjusting the forcing cone gap at the barrel. Then you have the possibility of a timing issue and hand engagement issue that would have to be addressed.
    A simple way to check for primer/case drag...
    Take six rounds of the "offending" ammo. Take a black sharpie/marker and cover the ends of the cases and primers and let the ink dry. Chamber the rounds and fire them... if/when the cylinder locks up carefully open the cylinder and look for drag marks on the back of the casings as well as ink transfer to the face around the firing pin. This will tell you if it's ammo related or a high spot on the frame... my guess is ammo because high spots don't just happen and this is the first time you have problems.

    Try different ammo first. I determined that the boxes of ammo I had were bad. The primer pockets were out of spec allowing the primer to set back on ignition. I'm talking a tiny amount of set back barely visible to the naked eye but enough to lock up my revolver.

    Good luck man... let us know.
     

    El-Cigarro

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    My dad has a security six that binds up pretty regularly, the ejector rod is slightly bent and unscrews itself. I kinda wonder if you might not have a timing issue.
    Back in the early eighties, I had a Security Six, and on one or two occations, the cylinder did bind up on me! Gun was new/clean. Also had a S&W do it. A new Mod 586, with a "6 tube. The 586 just came out that year, and I'm thinking this was an issue with them. Smith took care of the problem.....:)
     

    Wild Deuce

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    Update (thread resurrection)

    Cliff notes ... Gun was very graciously (free) looked at by a very competent revolversmith. Every aspect of the gun was evaluated and everything was found to be within specs. He attempted to get the gun to jam with over a hundred rounds fired. He could not replicate my problem. He returned the gun. I put 44 flawless rounds through the gun today.

    I am at a total loss. :dunno:

    The only thing I did not evaluate today was firing after a reload (as mentioned in Post 13 on this thread). That will be done at my next range trip. The gunsmith said that, based on my description of the problem, the crane tube might be the culprit even though he could not replicate the problem.

    Just wanted to update the OP in case anyone with a similar problem stumbles across this in the future.
     

    nhgluff

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    Jul 19, 2010
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    First of all its a GP100 I know a few people that have had issues with them. Never buy a piece of **** new key lock gun. The only revolver issues I have had are with key locks.
     

    Wild Deuce

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    First of all its a GP100 I know a few people that have had issues with them. Never buy a piece of **** new key lock gun. The only revolver issues I have had are with key locks.

    Not sure what you mean here ... You mention the fact that it's a GP100 and then you mention key locks. Were the two points related? To the best of my knowledge, Ruger doesn't put key locks on their GP100s. Help me understand what you meant.
     
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