polishing out tiny scratches on SS

[Michiana]

Anyone have any tricks on polishing out very fine scratches on stainless steel matte finish?

 

[thomjb]

Issue is the matte finish, polishing will not yield a matte look IMHO. I thing bead blasting is what is used for that...

 

[NateIU10]

do the scratches appear shiny? If so, I agree, beadblasting would work best. You may be able to use some very high grit wet-dry sandpaper too.

 

[Michiana]

Tried wadding polish

I tried NEVR DULL wadding polish and that helped some. The scratches are not that deep nor real obvious but in the right light they show up. You can see a couple of them in the photo below.

 

[IndyGunworks]

make a sanding stick that will match the grit finish thats already there.... from the photos it appears to be around 400 grit maybe more.... keep it flat so you dont dish it out then blend the areas together.... its alot of work... PM me if you would like me to do it for you. i can also bead blast it but will have to bead blast the entire thing to make everything match... that looks deep enough that some work will need to be done prior to blasting though.

 

[Limpy88]

it's hard to tell from the picks the finish. but the best way to do any thing with stainless is with scotchbrite pads. and no not the stuff under the sink. go to fastenal and ask for meduim and fine 3m scotchbrite pads. they come in 4x6 pieces that can be cut. there are 2 more stages of fine and cousre as well. i've polished stainless a lot and 3m holds up the best over time. but also the are many didn't abbrasive's that can be used but they may not have them in stock.

 

[boman]

scotchbrite pads.

I agree---Might also try some 0 or 00 steel wool.

Steve

 

[HandK]

If you use sand paper or steel wool all you will do is make more scratches, Use some Mothers mag wheel polish and a buffing pad on a dremel tool and you wont be able to see it, I use this all the time.

 

[IndyGunworks]

If you use sand paper or steel wool all you will do is make more scratches, Use some Mothers mag wheel polish and a buffing pad on a dremel tool and you wont be able to see it, I use this all the time.

careful with the dremel, it will be very easy to dish the metal out with it.... and i beg to differ on sand paper making more scratches, i use it all the time you just have to know how to use it properly

 

[lojax]

if your wanting to get the scratches out completely I dont think scotchbrite or steel wool is coarse enough you would probably have to start with stones, and then steel wool or scotchbrite

 

[bwframe]

I've had pretty fair success with a small stainless steel brush (read auto detailing brush.) DON'T BRUSH WITH IT. Tap/strike with the ends of the bristles. It's a moderately slow process that doesn't seem to muck up the surrounding bead blasted areas yet dimples up the shiny areas to make them blend.

I can't say for sure the process would work on your gun. It looks to be a brushed factory finish as opposed to bead blasted?

 

[Iceandfire]

Several folks have mentioned steel wool. Plain steel wool can cause problems. It seems that the wool breaks off in the scratches of the stainless and can cause future rusting. I've been told to use stainless steel wool for polishing stainless steel. (Your results may vary.)

 

[BIG TIM]

Try tooth paste(without water). Apply with your finger and work it in with a dry clean cloth. Toothpaste is a mild abrasive and depending on how deep the scratches are, it may blend them in enough to live with. It works on your teeth everyday. This works great on jewelry.

 

[andyrping]

Try tooth paste(without water). Apply with your finger and work it in with a dry clean cloth. Toothpaste is a mild abrasive and depending on how deep the scratches are, it may blend them in enough to live with. It works on your teeth everyday. This works great on jewelry.

Interesting.

I agree with the dremel- use a felt tip with polishing compound. Will give a mirror finish, but will get the scratch out. Will not dish either. Then find a way to "rough" the finish back up to match the matte. Yours almost looks more like satin to me though. I'm curious as to what the tooth paste would do. I've been trying to figure how to match the S&W stainless satin and wonder if toothpaste is rough enough to do it. Probably would work well with the felt tipped dremel.

I would find a piece of stainless or regular steel, give a high polish then figure out what matches, then attempt on the revolver....

 

[DissonantEscapist]

Try tooth paste(without water). Apply with your finger and work it in with a dry clean cloth. Toothpaste is a mild abrasive and depending on how deep the scratches are, it may blend them in enough to live with. It works on your teeth everyday. This works great on jewelry.

Make sure it's actually a PASTE, and not a gel or paste/gel mixture. I use this with a cotton swab to clean and lightly polish delicate stainless steel parts for work once in a while and will vouch for it. Plain Crest or Colgate work great.

 

[Mgderf]

Make sure it's actually a PASTE, and not a gel or paste/gel mixture. I use this with a cotton swab to clean and lightly polish delicate stainless steel parts for work once in a while and will vouch for it. Plain Crest or Colgate work great.[/quote]


It's NOT just for gun polish anymore!

My dad taught me 40 years ago, REAL paste, toothpaste, not the gels or speckled crap, works GREAT as a painters aid!
Toothpaste will fill small nail/screw holes in a wall just like spackle.
Simply putty knife it into the hole, let dry (8 hours), sand, and paint.
Toothpaste will expand and contract about the same as spackle, and will last for years!

End

 

[Limpy88]

a genral rule in metal working never us non s/s abbrasives on s/s. or abbrasives that have come in contact with non s/s on s/s