...........you can just buy the part from Volquartzen. It's an easy modification to do yourself but I've always been careful to not take out too much material. So you remove material then try the part. If it doesn't work you remove more material and try it again. Disassemble, reassemble. Disassemble, reassemble. The surface from which you are removing metal needs to be slightly concave.
I can teach anyone how to use the stock bolt release with one hand in under 5 minutes, including practice. Using the factory release adds a few benifits as well. The auto bolt release will allow the bolt to go forward with a bump to the stock. It will also allow the bolt to go forward if you bump it with the chamber flag, which ties up the chamber flag with the bolt then requiring two hand to clear the flag.
I've never had a problem after teaching dozens how to use it at Appleseeds. It's not a poor design, it's just poorly documented in the manual (which no one ever reads anyway )
YHJ
If you choose to use a scope, get the lowest mounts that work, the closer your scope's objective bell is to the barrel the better. High mounts and "see-through" mounts will make you work much harder to achieve a good cheek weld. Low power, less than 4X is best, a 2X is ideal.
DAve
What makes a 2X better than a 4X? Is 4X too much magnification for 25 yards? I was planning on a 3-9X so I guess I'm right in the middle. I would love to try open sights but I am afraid my over the hill eyes can't do it.