Ok guys, teach your kids to check and change their oil.

[firecadet613]

I have been using a oil extractor for a few years now and when I started using it I extracted the oil and then removed the oil drain plug and so far on everything I have used it on nothing has come out of the sump with drain plug removed. It gets everything out of the sump that a drain plug removal does and maybe more.
I use on the mower, golf cart, generator and power washer. Works on my cars and trucks also.
I have heard a few high end auto manufactures don't even have drain plugs on their vehicles anymore and require a extractor to do oil changes.
Don't know anything about using on a boat as motor angle and the way a boat sits on the trailer and the sump design all play into how much oil you can get out with the extractor?

Sounds like it's different with a car.

No trailer on my 33' or 37', changed them both while they were sitting in the slip. Always had about a quart remaining. Same with my 24' though, which I did on the trailer.

On the generator and riding mower it's too easy not to just remove the plug and let it drain out. On the Ram I just let the truck lift itself up.

 

[jkaetz]

Changing oil at 3000 miles with modern oil formulations is wasting oil and money. I personally think 7500 miles is stretching it so a happy medium is 5000.

I think there is a quantity element to this as well. All my vehicles now take ~9 quarts of oil. While the two Germans recommend 10k or 1 year I'm doing them both around 7k. One is going on 13 years and 170k miles now. The other is just getting started. The third (LS3 powered) doesn't typically see more than 5k/year so it gets changed before going into hibernation for the winter.

New Beemers And Mercedes have now sealed their engines and oil changes can no longer be performed by the consumer or warranty will be voided. I will never buy or own one of these.

Doing my own service has probably saved me over $10,000 over the years.

Our 2021 Mercedes deleted the dipstick in favor of an electronic level sensor but there is still a drain plug and filter that can be done by anyone with a jack/ramps and some time.

10 minutes you say?
Well... I did the 4 Runner this afternoon (just under 5000 mi 0/20 synthetic if anyone is curious...)

You have to remove the front engine/radiator skid plate and other hardware and panels to get to the filter cartridge (not a spin on).

The oil drain plug is located under the 2nd skid plate that runs under the engine and trans.
That one has an access plate that you can pull off with 2 bolts to get at the plug.

Why they didn't put an access plate like that in the front skid plate under the filter is still a HUGE freaking mystery to me to this day.
4 plastic push pins for an forced air duct, 5 bolts for the middle fill panel from the bumper to the front skid plate
and finally 4 bolts to remove the front skid plate.

I hear this. I have probably 30 pounds of skid plates and about two dozen fasteners on the 2021 to remove before I can get to the plug and filter.

 

[d.kaufman]

Oil gets changed in my vehicles twice a year. Spring and fall. Me and the wife might put 3k miles on our vehicles in that 6 month timeframe. She's usually less, probably closer to 2k.

 

[Leo]

Oil gets changed in my vehicles twice a year. Spring and fall. Me and the wife might put 3k miles on our vehicles in that 6 month timeframe. She's usually less, probably closer to 2k.

Our habits are similar, many days at least one car is not used, short trips, that the engine never gets to temperature, and lots of in town idling in traffic. That is a lot different duty than a long commute twice a day. With the cost of anything related to the engine being so outrageous, a couple $80 oils changes a year is pretty cheap insurance.

 

[ws6guy]

So, you're saying you don't want to get all the oil and contaminants out? I had to use an oil extractor on my boats, never could do a "full" oil change.

Cuz it's a Toyota! That's almost as bad as my Ram which has the oil filter over the steering gear (so the oil gets on everything). The only plus is it's air suspension so two clicks of the button and the truck raises up enough I can slide right under it.

On my old '16 F150 with the 2.7, it was a legit 10 minute or less oil change.

Plastic, quarter turn drain plug and a top mounted cartridge filter. No drips, no mess.

Using ziplock bags for the oil filter helps cut down the mess on the Ram. Also I just bought an the oil udder XL, used it once and it works ok too.

Amazon.com

 

[Brian Ski]

Also I just bought an the oil udder XL, used it once and it works ok too.

I see it is ribbed for smooth flow.

 

[firecadet613]

Using ziplock bags for the oil filter helps cut down the mess on the Ram. Also I just bought an the oil udder XL, used it once and it works ok too.

Amazon.com

Ziplock bags are great! If I drove it more and she got more than one oil change a year I'd look at that oil udder, talk about a nifty device.

 

[Brad69]

Wife’s super stock gets a oil change after each race weekend.

OW40 mobile 1 euro formula $60 for 12 quart box and mobile 1 oil
filter.
I just use the OW40 in most stuff
2001 Tundra once a year
2017 Rubicon once a year
2015 Camaro SS once a year

Wife’s 22.5 Silverado “baby Duramax” mobile 1 OW20 euro diesel oil 7,500 miles.

 

[bobzilla]

just wanted to come here & promote a Hoosier company in case y’all weren’t aware of em: Blackstone Labs - they do oil analysis

I also do it and can actually tell you something useful and not just the feel good report they offer.

There are a lot of statements in here being made as absolutes that really aren’t a one size fits all. Different engines, uses, conditions etc make a lot of difference in how long and what type of oil to use. I could make a post so long on this topic it would make @jamil envious. But I’ll leave it at: if you have questions hit me up.

 

[ditcherman]

Doing work at a Tractor Supply Dist building I was given quite a few Syn Rotella 15-40 big jugs. I had the sad's like you when it was gone.
I have a friend that works on rolling stock there, he burns new oil in his used oil furnace at his home shop.

Rotella’s disgustingly thin and weak. You should be thankful you’re out.
Fight me.

At least that’s the case for the first few years I had heavy equipment. I was told use rotella, I convinced my dad to switch all the farm stuff to rotella from co-op and all of a sudden the oil was super thin at 100 hours and we were adding some in between. This was back in the pre-synth days and 100 hour intervals, so maybe synth has changed things for them, but we’re back to co-op oil, and things look much better at oil change times. These 250 hour intervals make me cringe though.

 

[Creedmoor]

Rotella’s disgustingly thin and weak. You should be thankful you’re out.
Fight me.

At least that’s the case for the first few years I had heavy equipment. I was told use rotella, I convinced my dad to switch all the farm stuff to rotella from co-op and all of a sudden the oil was super thin at 100 hours and we were adding some in between. This was back in the pre-synth days and 100 hour intervals, so maybe synth has changed things for them, but we’re back to co-op oil, and things look much better at oil change times. These 250 hour intervals make me cringe though.

We have always run conventional 15-40 roto.
I'll ask my brother if he has noticed that happening.
I run syn roto in my old 7.3 and my 2001 790 and my 2014 5075E.
In the 7.3 I will leak/burn about 2 qts between changes and I'm certain I don't work my tractors like you guys do.
It's been 6-8 yrs, since the 75hp has had any worthy implements hooked up to it.

 

[Hoosierdood]

FWIW, I won’t put just any oil in my cars. Synthetic oils are all a little bit different. Also, I buy all my oil and filters on Amazon. Better prices than I’ve seen at any auto store and lots better selection.

Our Volkswagens get Castrol Edge Euro 5W-30 and Mann filters. The Castrol is one of the few that meets the VW 502 specifications. We have been doing 7500 mile changes on all 3 of our 2.5l engines without issues. My son’s 2009 Jetta just turned 215k miles and doesn’t even have a check engine light. My boys check and change their own oil now, so dad is off the hook for that.

My wife’s 2017 Jeep Wrangler gets Penzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-20 and Purolator filter every 5000 miles. I did a lot of research when we bought it and everything showed that the 3.6l Pentastar does really well with that oil. We only have 60k on it now and drive less than 10k per year so might be a while before we find out how good it is.

When I get a new car that I’m not familiar with I research the heck out of it and find a good combination of oil and filter. Then I make sure is always have a full oil change worth in my garage so I am prepared when it’s time.

 

[ditcherman]

We have always run conventional 15-40 roto.
I'll ask my brother if he has noticed that happening.
I run syn roto in my old 7.3 and my 2001 790 and my 2014 5075E.
In the 7.3 I will leak/burn about 2 qts between changes and I'm certain I don't work my tractors like you guys do.
It's been 6-8 yrs, since the 75hp has had any worthy implements hooked up to it.

I had bought on old ditcher and a hoe and a semi and wondered why the oil was thinner over time than the farm stuff. Then, not being too bright, we switched the farm stuff over then realized it was the oil, not those particular engines. We switched back over the next few years.
Of course, my idea of thicker being better just (don’t even go there, Mr soft hands!) going off eyesight and gut is completely non scientific.

Maybe @bobzilla can speak to that?

I would think that burning 2 qts in 3000 miles seems excessive to me, for co op oil. I’m down to only 1 7.3 at the moment, but have had 4 over time.

 

[Creedmoor]

I had bought on old ditcher and a hoe and a semi and wondered why the oil was thinner over time than the farm stuff. Then, not being too bright, we switched the farm stuff over then realized it was the oil, not those particular engines. We switched back over the next few years.
Of course, my idea of thicker being better just (don’t even go there, Mr soft hands!) going off eyesight and gut is completely non scientific.

Maybe @bobzilla can speak to that?

I would think that burning 2 qts in 3000 miles seems excessive to me, for co op oil. I’m down to only 1 7.3 at the moment, but have had 4 over time.

I started with a 6.9 non turbo and this is my second 7.3 dually. It's first 125,000 was a hard hauling life. I could probably cut it by a 1/3 or half with resealing .most of the engine but I'm not going to do it.
One of the boys wants it when he buys a home, I'll let him do it.

 

[printcraft]

Vacuum pump if anyone wants to see.
View attachment 379979

That sucks...












not as much as it used to.

 

[Creedmoor]

I see it is ribbed for smooth flow.

So many jokes...

 

[Creedmoor]

That sucks...












not as much as it used to.

Kinna like a wife??

 

[printcraft]

Kinna like a wife??

Not in my experience…

 

[bobzilla]

I had bought on old ditcher and a hoe and a semi and wondered why the oil was thinner over time than the farm stuff. Then, not being too bright, we switched the farm stuff over then realized it was the oil, not those particular engines. We switched back over the next few years.
Of course, my idea of thicker being better just (don’t even go there, Mr soft hands!) going off eyesight and gut is completely non scientific.

Maybe @bobzilla can speak to that?

I would think that burning 2 qts in 3000 miles seems excessive to me, for co op oil. I’m down to only 1 7.3 at the moment, but have had 4 over time.

There's been a formulation shift over the last decade, I'll share more tonight when I'm not working.

 

[Creedmoor]

Not in my experience…

Still, so many jokes.